OME/RSX and a spacer???

[trichard310]

So, after replacing my daystar 2.5" with OME/RSX, I lost about .75" in the front that I would like to get back.

I was thinking, Maybe I could cut the old daystar spacers in half and add them in, kinda like a homemade Frankie.

Thoughts/suggestions?????????

 

[kj924]

Do you still have the Daystar upper strut plates? If so, I think it was twack that tried the same thing. I would shoot him a PM about it.

Or....get some of Boiler's shim plates that he makes.

 

[Atrus]

Yeah, Boiler has 3/8" top plate shims for $48 shipped. Those would get you back a good 5/8"-3/4" of lift. Easy to install, and not rough on the springs. The 3/8" shim can't be used with Daystar upper strut plates though, only OEM. 1/4" shims can be used with Daystar plates.

 

[trichard310]

Yeah, the daystar strut plates are already installed. What about these .25" shims??? If I could use the .25" shims and a 14-16mm clevis, that would give me quite a bit more lift aye? Then I wouldn't need to cut the spacers! I will shoot Twack a PM, thanks for the tip!

 

[bigBlue]

$35 for a 3/4" poly coil spacer to fit under your OME's. The Daystar upper plates need the poly coil to get the right pre-load on the spring...this will also get your front end back up to where it was before.

I think TWACK used the daystar spacer too, but I believe he cut out a coil or two to make it fit....it would be easier to cut your spacers down 1.75" and use whats left (.75") that way you dont risk damaging the 150 dollar coils.

 

[jcbll95]

i dont think that cutting your 2.5" spacers would work unless you have a way to reshape the inside of the spacer where it is shaped to fit over the strut. I got my .75 spacers from rusty http://http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RC-SP075-KJ&Category_Code=COILS

 

[twack]

Yup i wanted to use the daystar spacers and OME coils on some ranchos. The problem being that unless you have a lathe or something like it, it cant be cut down. The inside of the spacer needs to be bored out in order to fit the strut once its cut. I ended up keeping the daystar 2.5 spacer and cutting one ring out of my OME light duty springs. Im not sure if that would work on medium or heavy duty. Ive put many thousands of miles on the setup and it works great with ZERO clevis lift. ill remeasure it later i cant remember the numbers but shes pretty high, but ive had no CV problems yet.

At this point in the game i would either use a rustys spacer or i would use a set of boilers shims. and i would lean towards a clevis lift and boilers shims if i were you.

The reason i did the cutting of the springs was because i didnt want to loose the little bit of lift your talking about. I just so happen to come across a set of new OME light duties for $50 shipped for both. Light duties alone would sag pretty fast and not give much lift. Becuase OME light duties are still stornger then stock and taller then stock i cut them down to stock spring size by taking out one loop on each front spring. Then they could be installed with the daystar spacer. It was super cheap for me, it has been very reliable for me, and a nice combo ive been very happy with.

 

[trichard310]

$35 for a 3/4" poly coil spacer to fit under your OME's. The Daystar upper plates need the poly coil to get the right pre-load on the spring...this will also get your front end back up to where it was before.

I think TWACK used the daystar spacer too, but I believe he cut out a coil or two to make it fit....it would be easier to cut your spacers down 1.75" and use whats left (.75") that way you dont risk damaging the 150 dollar coils.

I dont really know what you mean by the daystar upper plates needing the poly coil to get the right pre-load on the springs? Are the oem upper iso's not sufficient or are you talking about something else? Nor do I know how to only quote portions of a reply?

 

[trichard310]

Yup i wanted to use the daystar spacers and OME coils on some ranchos. The problem being that unless you have a lathe or something like it, it cant be cut down. The inside of the spacer needs to be bored out in order to fit the strut once its cut. I ended up keeping the daystar 2.5 spacer and cutting one ring out of my OME light duty springs. Im not sure if that would work on medium or heavy duty. Ive put many thousands of miles on the setup and it works great with ZERO clevis lift. ill remeasure it later i cant remember the numbers but shes pretty high, but ive had no CV problems yet.

At this point in the game i would either use a rustys spacer or i would use a set of boilers shims. and i would lean towards a clevis lift and boilers shims if i were you.

The reason i did the cutting of the springs was because i didnt want to loose the little bit of lift your talking about. I just so happen to come across a set of new OME light duties for $50 shipped for both. Light duties alone would sag pretty fast and not give much lift. Becuase OME light duties are still stornger then stock and taller then stock i cut them down to stock spring size by taking out one loop on each front spring. Then they could be installed with the daystar spacer. It was super cheap for me, it has been very reliable for me, and a nice combo ive been very happy with.

Looks like you got to me, before I got to you! Thanks For the input.

 

[bigBlue]

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=50921

this is where i got my information and it made pretty good sense. the coils are being used with a top plate that is different than stock...so to get the correct tension on the coil in the stock length strut (OEM, OME, Billstein, or Rancho) a spacer is used under the coil to "pre-load" the tension (someone chyme in if i am wrong)....extra isos would work but they might slip off...thast why a .75" spacer is used on the bottom (w/o the bottom iso)

 

[kj924]

This is my take on the Daystar upper strut plates.

The Daystar upper plates are used to put the shock travel back into safe operating range. The top plate does nothing but hold the strut assembly together, right?

Take my lift for example....I run OME front springs OME shocks with original top plates. Now, say I put in the .75 poly spacer under my set up I have now...this will increase the height of the strut assembly....pulling the shock cylinder farther out closer to it's fully extended limits....then when you get into a full droop situation, the shock is closer to nearly full extension..and boom you get a f**&^& shock...now if I then replaced the stock plates with a Daystar plate, the shock mount is effectively lower by 1.5"(or whatever it is, I didn't measure it) and put back into a "safe range" of operation.

In theory, you could have a spring 4ft long, as long as the shock moves in the proper range of travel....then bump stops come into play.

Did that make any sense?? Again, this is just my opinion.

 

[bigBlue]

This is my take on the Daystar upper strut plates.

The Daystar upper plates are used to put the shock travel back into safe operating range. The top plate does nothing but hold the strut assembly together, right?

Take my lift for example....I run OME front springs OME shocks with original top plates. Now, say I put in the .75 poly spacer under my set up I have now...this will increase the height of the strut assembly....pulling the shock cylinder farther out closer to it's fully extended limits....then when you get into a full droop situation, the shock is closer to nearly full extension..and boom you get a f**&^& shock...now if I then replaced the stock plates with a Daystar plate, the shock mount is effectively lower by 1.5"(or whatever it is, I didn't measure it) and put back into a "safe range" of operation.

In theory, you could have a spring 4ft long, as long as the shock moves in the proper range of travel....then bump stops come into play.

Did that make any sense?? Again, this is just my opinion.

correct...but if u read the original post and what he/she is running...they already have the daystar upperstrut plate. and if that is all that they have (if they no longer have the stock plates), then the best set-up is running the .75 spacer (i.e. Frankenlift). If they have the stock strut plates...then OME/17505/clevis will do just fine.

Bottom line, if they are running Daystar plates, they will get the best ride and height from adding the .75" spacer to the coils.

 

[long_tall_texan]

I dont really know what you mean by the daystar upper plates needing the poly coil to get the right pre-load on the springs? Are the oem upper iso's not sufficient or are you talking about something else? Nor do I know how to only quote portions of a reply?

Here is the basic concept. The Daystar top plate in effect, lengthens the front shock shaft length. It adds 2.5" of droop. So, if you use the Daystar top plate with OME springs, the springs do not have enough initial compression in the coil-over configuration that our Jeeps have. You need to take up some or all of that extra 2.5" of top plate extension with spacers. By using the OEM spring isos and 3/4" of additional spacer like I did, or by just replacing the bottom iso with the Rusty's ( http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RC-SP075-KJ&Category_Code=COILS ) You pretty much get the correct pre-load on the springs.

 

[Atrus]

Do you get UBJ contact with OEM upper a-arms if you do this homemade frankenlift?

 

[kj924]

Do you get UBJ contact with OEM upper a-arms if you do this homemade frankenlift?

On full droop it would be pretty darn close.

 

[trichard310]

Here is the basic concept. The Daystar top plate in effect, lengthens the front shock shaft length. It adds 2.5" of droop. So, if you use the Daystar top plate with OME springs, the springs do not have enough initial compression in the coil-over configuration that our Jeeps have. You need to take up some or all of that extra 2.5" of top plate extension with spacers. By using the OEM spring isos and 3/4" of additional spacer like I did, or by just replacing the bottom iso with the Rusty's ( http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=RC-SP075-KJ&Category_Code=COILS ) You pretty much get the correct pre-load on the springs.

Your saying the OEM Iso's are not sufficient with my OME springs and the daystar plates, and that I acually need this spacer, correct?

 

[bigBlue]

Your saying the OEM Iso's are not sufficient with my OME springs and the daystar plates, and that I acually need this spacer, correct?

to get the correct spring tension on those OME's....yes! that is why the frankenlift uses the .75" spacer. It maximizes the lift while giving a single solid pre-assembled unit to the customer, that meets all requirements set forth for the proper spring tension by OME.

 

[ThunderbirdJunkie]

Um, OME engineers their stuff to be bolted directly into a stock vehicle. You don't need a spacer of any sort. A spacer would only increase preload, which artificially adds spring tension, and therefore rate, and increasing premature wear.

 

[Atrus]

No, TBJ -

That's correct if you're running stock top plates.

If you want to run Daystar top plates, you need a spacer to make up the difference.

 

[bigBlue]

No, TBJ -

That's correct if you're running stock top plates.

If you want to run Daystar top plates, you need a spacer to make up the difference.

x2....you can run the stock plates with the 17505's and get a solid product...but when u throw in the daystar plates (original post) it changes everything