New but in Need Please (Electrical or Draw)

[Billwill]

#34 is the problem inside the car.

I am just jumping it off each morning.

Any help on seeing what #34 interior fuse affect? wiring diargrams flew slightly over my head. I believe it is radio, dome lights, tag light, locks and power mirrors, tailgate - what else

sitting measures 12.8
Key on measures 10.4
Key turned (rapid clicking) drops to 9.5

Here is the wiring diagram 8W-12-32 for the 2005 KJ. You can download the complete 2005 KJ Service Manual here...includes all these wiring diagrams:

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ

These are all the components being supplied by Fuse 34 (15 A) on the internal Fuse Panel (Junction Block).

You will not have all these components in your Jeep...some are for Export Models or maybe for Premium (full options)

You could have a short somewhere or something like the radio may be staying ON after ignition is switched OFF.

You will see that all these wires are labeled as RD ie. Red. and the fuse output goes directly to the BCM on the rear of the Junction Block and also to the other components via pins 27, 15, 14, 30 and 18 on Connectors C1, C2 and C3 on the Junction block and pin 15 on the JB connector of the BCM...if the connectors are not labeled then look for the Red wires coming out of them and check the Service Manual, 8W Wiring, Junction Block 8W-12-2 for the connector locations.

Unless you have the correct Pin Extractor for these types of connectors you will not be able to remove a pin to eliminate which path is causing the power drain.

So you will have to cut the wire a few inches from the connector. For example...cut the Red wire coming off Connector C2 Pin 18....this cuts off power going to the Radio, Dome Lamp... if you have the base model...and the compass mini trip, cargo lamp, right visor vanity lamp, left visor vanity lamp, hands free module, Overhead map etc. if you have the "Except Base" model. If the current draw is still high then you know that this is not the path causing the current draw. Slip some Heat-shrink insulation over the wire that you have just cut, solder the wires back together, slip the heat shrink insulation over the joint and heat up the insulation with a hair dryer to shrink it for perfect insulation.

Then repeat the process for all the other Red wires coming off the connectors...it will always be the last one available!

Lots of work but you do not have much choice if you are sure that Fuse # 34 on the Junction Block is the cause of the high current draw. You could first disconnect the radio connector, instrument panel connector etc. to isolate a bad component but this does not rule out the wire going to the component chafing to chassis hence the need to cut the wires right at their source on the Junction Block.

 

[JasonJ]

"sitting measures 12.8
Key on measures 10.4
Key turned (rapid clicking) drops to 9.5"

The sitting voltage seems fine. Key on, and key turned voltages seem very low to me. Any battery that drops below 10.0v while cranking is suspect.

Are we CERTAIN that the battery tests good under load? I mean, charge it up fully overnight, let sit for an hour (to remove surface charge) and then load test it a couple times in a row?

Sounds like a bad/weak battery to me. Even a small (usually normal) amp draw overnight can easily kill a weakened battery, whereas a fresh, or healthy batt will remain charged.

 

[kchawda]

Thanks Bill -

To be clear cutting the wire will most likely only narrow down the culprit. IE (following the example above) cutting RD from C2 will kill power to the radio, dome lamp, and everything off of S390 - correct? If the draw does not drop shrink it back together and check off dome light, radio, and S390 items as not the issue.

C1 is only left and right courtesy lamp as well as instrument cluster - correct?
C3 is only Siren (is this the horn) - correct?
Last question for now - If I clear all of 8W-12-32 proceed through 8W-12-36 - correct?

 

[kchawda]

@JasonJ

I have been wanting to lean more towards battery - but have had it checked at a few places. Last night I took it out immediately after parking - checked it this morning and it was showing 12.5 - as soon as I tried to start it dropped to 10 and had to be jumped off. My feeling is it is not the battery and when the battery was replaced it was not the problem. I bought the battery with out testing it - and when I brought the core back in I was told it was still good (battery was 5 years old so I just kept the new one).

 

[renegade 04]

It sounds like your battery is bad.

 

[kchawda]

@ Renegade

The draw still occurs unless .12 is acceptable.

 

[kchawda]

New sequence info - if I open the door and turn the key to on and wait a few minutes the Jeep starts (though sluggish). Does this have any relevance - obviously not ideal, but better then disconnecting the battery IMO. Still want to fix it - hope this sparks something for all the helpers out there.

 

[renegade 04]

It really sounds like a issue related to something in the Body control module.

 

[Billwill]

Thanks Bill -

To be clear cutting the wire will most likely only narrow down the culprit. IE (following the example above) cutting RD from C2 will kill power to the radio, dome lamp, and everything off of S390 - correct? If the draw does not drop shrink it back together and check off dome light, radio, and S390 items as not the issue.

C1 is only left and right courtesy lamp as well as instrument cluster - correct?
C3 is only Siren (is this the horn) - correct?
Last question for now - If I clear all of 8W-12-32 proceed through 8W-12-36 - correct?

Yes the example I gave you as an examplewill eliminate all the components I listed coming off Junction Block C2 Pin 30. If the draw is still there wire the it back together and move on to the next item...I would recommend cutting Pin !5 On the JB connector of the BCM next and then put it back together and move onto next pin until all the items on this 8W-12-32 have been disconnected, tested and re-connected.

Once you find one of these 6 paths that definitely cuts your current draw then you have to eliminate items on that bad path one at a time.

The Siren is only for Export Models although it does not say so here so we can forget about that circuit from C3 pin 30...not an unusual error in the diagrams!

You can try disconnect for example the complete C1 connector on the Junction Block to see if current draw is dropped but then you are disconnecting all the pins on that connector...not just 14, 15 and 27 and the other pins in the connector may stop the Jeep from functioning altogether.
Likewise you can disconnect connector C100...check the Connector Locations in the wiring diagram for its location...this will eliminate a lot of items but probably stop the jeep from functioning at all if the whole connector is pulled off but you can measure current drain!

I am more inclined to believe that the BCM or Radio is going to be your culprit!

I really doubt that you will need to go to 8W-12-36..those items are all on Orange/Brown wires which have nothing to do with your Fuse # 34....your problem has to be on page 8W-12-32!

As I said before.. rather than start cutting wires try first unplug items such as the Radio, map lights, dome lights etc.

 

[kchawda]

solid advice Bill! I will be parking the jeep for the rest of the week so I can tear it down properly. I will try disconnecting and checking, but if I understood correctly disconnecting is only going to alert me if the problem is between the connector and destination.

Any thoughts on why leaving the door open and key to on will start the car in under 3 minutes?

 

[Billwill]

[QUOTE

Any thoughts on why leaving the door open and key to on will start the car in under 3 minutes?[/QUOTE]

Not too many ideas.

When the door is opened and left opened the interior lights normally go on for a a while then the BCM turns them off after maybe a minute or so.

So maybe one of the interior lights is initially draining the battery and then switches off and lets the battery recover.

Or the fuel pump initially powers up for a few seconds then shuts itself down when up to pressure...maybe your Jeep does not like trying to start while the fuel pump is also running.

Electrical problems are very weird...that is where Gremlins live and raise their families.

Paid for my food and a roof over my head for 32 years though so I cannot complain.:gr_grin:

 

[kchawda]

Sorry for the silence - a bout of stomach bug went around the household. I will be back to poking around this evening - I noticed while I had the knee panel open the under light was loose, heres' hoping. If that not it - since I don't care out the interior lights, radio, etc. Can I just unscrew the c3 block and leave it disconnected? This vehicle can be used as a A to B local only run. Work is 3 miles away.

The radio was disconnected and removed from the vehicle but the draw stayed. I did notice another new symptom - there is no chime when the key is left in the ignition.

 

[Billwill]

Sorry for the silence - a bout of stomach bug went around the household. I will be back to poking around this evening - I noticed while I had the knee panel open the under light was loose, heres' hoping. If that not it - since I don't care out the interior lights, radio, etc. Can I just unscrew the c3 block and leave it disconnected? This vehicle can be used as a A to B local only run. Work is 3 miles away.

The radio was disconnected and removed from the vehicle but the draw stayed. I did notice another new symptom - there is no chime when the key is left in the ignition.

You cannot unscrew the whole of the Junction Block C3 connector....it powers many things such as the headlights, brake lights, wipers etc.

Have a look at wiring diagram 8W-80-80!

 

[renegade 04]

Its sounds like a worn key, worn key cylinder, or a bad ignition switch.

 

[kchawda]

c2 and c3 blocks - cut red still drawing. Pulled c1 out and draw stopped. There are atleast 4 red wires though - I cannot seem to locate the pin diagram for C1. any help?

 

[renegade 04]

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2005JeepKJServiceManual.pdf
look on page number 1052 or page 8W - 80 - 11

 

[kchawda]

thanks Renegade, but I am working on something more JB-C1 on page 749.

I did cut the first red wire I could isolate - and it may be time for me to give it up. I think I scared myself more then anything, but after cutting the wire I screwed it back in until it seemed to synch down. Well either it did not seal down correctly or the wire I cut was related to the devil because it threw the jeep into security mode (the red light dot on bottom left side stayed on and the jeep wouldn't even click). I worked till now (1230 my time) to get it back to where it was (starting after jumping through hoops). Not sure my comfort level in going forward.

With some certainty (my inboard panel is backwards compared to picture on 749 - I'm basing my C1 assertion because its the one above all of the relays) I can say the problem is isolated on C1 (again unscrewed it and draw went to 0). I want to say pin 14 or 15 because since messing with it the drivers floor light has started working correctly and the passenger floor light wants to stay on (benefit to working in the dark I suppose).

I think I may have come to far to give up and have a dealer start from scratch - lets cut some more wires!!!!

 

[Billwill]

thanks Renegade, but I am working on something more JB-C1 on page 749.

I did cut the first red wire I could isolate - and it may be time for me to give it up. I think I scared myself more then anything, but after cutting the wire I screwed it back in until it seemed to synch down. Well either it did not seal down correctly or the wire I cut was related to the devil because it threw the jeep into security mode (the red light dot on bottom left side stayed on and the jeep wouldn't even click). I worked till now (1230 my time) to get it back to where it was (starting after jumping through hoops). Not sure my comfort level in going forward.

With some certainty (my inboard panel is backwards compared to picture on 749 - I'm basing my C1 assertion because its the one above all of the relays) I can say the problem is isolated on C1 (again unscrewed it and draw went to 0). I want to say pin 14 or 15 because since messing with it the drivers floor light has started working correctly and the passenger floor light wants to stay on (benefit to working in the dark I suppose).

I think I may have come to far to give up and have a dealer start from scratch - lets cut some more wires!!!!

You seem to be nearly there...the passenger floor light should not stay On all the time. You need to identify the pins by number before cutting them....Red wires are used all over the place so you do not know what problems you may cause by cutting a wire that is unrelated to your current-draw problem.

Are you still getting the issue of the Jeep not recognising that there is a key in the ignition?

The Ignition Actuator Pin that we all keep talking about because it breaks fairley often has a plastic "sliver" that runs down its center....when the ignition key is pushed all the way in it pushes this thin sliver down so as to press on a seperate switch mounted on the ignition switch assembly so as to recognise that the key is all the way inside the ignition slot.

When the Actuator Pin Assembly starts to crumble then this "sliver" usually crumbles with it so bear this in mind unless this particular problem is now resolved.

 

[kchawda]

Some form of update for those who are highly in need.

engine codes:
P1684
PO218
P1775
PO740
PO562
PO700

I have been able to recently unlock - lock - unlock (with the factory remote) - start with ease. After putting all the wires back together I have not cut anything else (cannot figure out what each red wire is to on C1).

When the wires were cut (no radio and no interior lights supposedly) the passenger floor light would stay on - and the car would start (very sluggish).

If someone has the diagram for C1 I am willing, ready, and able to continue cutting - in the mean time I will use the new found trick.

Renegade - I lean more and more towards something between the steering wheel and console. My mental block to the science Billwill provides is if I pull the JB fuse block from under the hood the draw goes completely away - why does the car not start the moment the fuse block is plugged back in?

Regardless thank you all so much for getting me to this point - I learned a lot so far and that would not have been possible without your help.

 

[renegade 04]

It sounds still like either the ignition switch or maybe the multi-function switch.