Need advice on parts to get

[RenegadeRecruit84]

So after JUST buying the lift kit, turns out my head gasket is gone to davey jones locker. I'm going to get a head gasket kit, head bolt set, and TC gasket kit all from Fel-pro. Ease of Mind > money spent. Also picking up a new failsafe thermostat and water pump while getting the work done. Also going to replace the PCV valve cause why not. The mechanic informed me the engine needs to be dropped to do both sides, whatever ok. While the engine is out I figured I'd replace the clutch since I have a stiff pedal and there is noise coming from the transmission due to bearing issues.

However I need advice on which bearing to get as well. It's like a scrapping noise while in neutral, but as soon as I depress the clutch the noise goes away. I thought it was the clutch release bearing or the pilot bearing. But recently I've been reading about the input shaft bearing. I'm not sure if I should just buy it and ease my mind, or try and save a few bucks from this whole ordeal.


I just need to keep telling myself that all this work is better than buying a new car.....it's better than car payments....

 

[nullptr]

However I need advice on which bearing to get as well. It's like a scrapping noise while in neutral, but as soon as I depress the clutch the noise goes away. I thought it was the clutch release bearing or the pilot bearing. But recently I've been reading about the input shaft bearing. I'm not sure if I should just buy it and ease my mind, or try and save a few bucks from this whole ordeal.

Sounds like the it might be the throwout bearing to me, also known as the "thrust" or "clutch release" bearing. It's been a while since I've driven a car with a bad one, but I want to say it makes noise when the clutch is released as it's not under tension at that point. It's also the most common one to go bad.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Sorry to hear that you get to do repairs instead of the lift. Bummer...

FYI, the engine doesn't need to be pulled to do the heads - everything can be done while the engine is in the Jeep. A little harder to get the timing chains all lined up but it can be done. The Factory Service Manual instructs on how to leave the engine in the Jeep and remove & replace the heads.

May mess up the other things you'd like to do (clutch bearing, etc.) with the engine still in the Jeep but you'll save hours and $$'s if you don't remove the engine.

Bob

 

[CactusJacked]

My clutch was making bad screeching noises this past summer, and making the trans not fully disengage in neutral. I replaced the clutch, but it was the needles on the pilot bearings that were half gone/tossed around/hanging up that was making the noise. Release bearing and pressure plate were still good but worn. I replaced the whole clutch assembly, flywheel was fine. Get the LUK brand, rockauto was the best price I found. The pilot bearing needles wore a groove in the pilot shaft, so based on the ID/OD specs and width I wanted, I hunted down a longer bearing to span either side of the groove. There's plenty of extra clearance and shaft bearing surface to use a longer bearing. There is no aftermarket "fix kit" if you have this issue, but there is a bearing that will work like a charm. Others have fixed their groove the hard way by rebuilding the trans and replacing the input shaft. That would have cost me quite a bit more than a little bearing.

 

[ltd02]

I'm going to get a head gasket kit, head bolt set, and TC gasket kit all from Fel-pro. Ease of Mind > money spent. Also picking up a new failsafe thermostat and water pump while getting the work done. Also going to replace the PCV valve cause why not. The mechanic informed me the engine needs to be dropped to do both sides, whatever ok.

Like Bob said, no need to drop the engine. I just did my HGs last spring. Used all FelPro stuff with no problems. Make sure you get the heads cleaned and machined and checked for cracks etc. Maybe look into getting the valve seats upgraded. Probably worth changing the crank seal while you have the cover off. I'd say no to a failsafe Tstat. I never liked those things and the Mopar ones are very high quality. I replaced mine with a new Mopar when I did the HGs and kept the still working factory one as a spare (160k on it).

 

[RenegadeRecruit84]

Well it's not me doing the work, so if he's going to drop then engine, whatever. I went ahead and got all the clutch parts plus the input shaft bearing. I forgot to get the rear main seal and the, what I think, the output shaft seal from the transmission to the driveshaft. Gotta order that.

 

[Billwill]

Well it's not me doing the work, so if he's going to drop then engine, whatever. I went ahead and got all the clutch parts plus the input shaft bearing. I forgot to get the rear main seal and the, what I think, the output shaft seal from the transmission to the driveshaft. Gotta order that.

Make sure that if the flywheel looks deeply grooved...that the shop does not machine the flywheel flat. The flywheel has a deliberate curve in it to match the curve in the friction plate and machining the flywheel flat ruins the lot.
Light scratches can be taken out with Emory cloth though.

 

[CactusJacked]

Even if the flywheel doesn't have scratches, you want to dress it down by hand to remove the glazing so that the clutch disc and flywheel can break in together. The flywheel's worn surface will have a shine to it like how brake rotors get.

 

[RenegadeRecruit84]

OK I'll explain this to him when I get the parts in to drop it off.

 

[CactusJacked]

If taking it to a reputable mechanic, you shouldn't have to explain this stuff. However, if you're taking it to Goober's garage, then maybe!

 

[profdlp]

Good luck! :favorites13:

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[CactusJacked]

^ lol. And all the owner brought it in for was an oil change.