Lifting a CRD to the max

[Selwyn]

Hi Guys

Here's what this thread is about:

My Questions (please remember this is CRD territory!):

How do I obtain maximum lift without touching the inner CV joint boot?
How do I protect the CV joint at full droop?
How do I maintain maximum suspension travel, no limiting straps!

Are the different makes of shocks for the KJ front end exactly the same length, OME included?
This makes everything equal the same suspension travel irrespective of shock make.

Tony makes mention of this same issue in the post, lets find the best solution, make this issue a new topic open for discussion, allow radical ideas, somewhere we will find an answer.
Just to get the ball rolling: -
“Cramp” the coil over into the space available above the CV joint boot, allow full movement of the coil over.
Do all the lifting modifications below the coil over.
Fabricate an adjustable clevis.
Fabricate a new LCA if necessary.
Fabricate a new mounting point for the Clevis on the existing LCA.

Anything is possible if we hunt for solutions!

Regards
Selwyn

 

[tommudd]

The biggest hurdle with the CRDs is the shorter CV on the drivers side, no shock / mounting/ or magic will change that.
1 inch Cradle drop would give you some more room to work with for sure

 

[tommudd]

If it was me I think that would be my next "experimental phase"

 

[Selwyn]

Hi Tony & CRD lovers.
I’ve seen the kit with the clevis on the site. The kit 2 shock appears longer than kit 1shock; the length of the standard clevis top clamp is gone.
JBA should publish a full spec on the Bilstein kit, shock travel coil/weight/capacity, clevis size, the works - then we can compare.
I experimented with the aluminum clevis and a stock strut a long time back, it worked, I lost faith! I tend to modify one part at a time, that way I find my results measurable, even if this is only a perception.
Time permitting I am going to fabricate a stainless steel adjustable clevis (left hand right hand thread combination on the legs) starting at 20 mm longer than standard and adjusting a further 30mm safely. The day I find a LCA at a breakers yard (at a good price) I will have the foundation for the LCA fabrication; machine the existing clevis eye to create a flat surface, fabricate an adjustable plate to take the clevis.
My Idea;
Step 1 fit the standard top plate, 25mm top spacer with ears for the puller (current setup), coil of my choice & OME shock - This way the shock/clevis will never touch the inner boot.
Step 2 Remove the25mm top spacer, fit an 8mm plate with ears, fit the clevis, adjust evaluate and modify.
Step 3 will be the CV issues.

The puller is fantastic; build the thing with a thicker bolt, stronger chain, and/or bigger ear, whatever it takes for you to declare it safe, you will never look back!
The 4 bolt job to be used to compress a fully extended coil directly onto the shock is nearing completion.

Regards

Selwyn

 

[Selwyn]

Front shaft lengths between joint outer caps?
CRD Short
CRD Long
Petrol Short
Petrol Long
The question;
What is the additional length on the gasser that makes the "angle" difference ?

Selwyn

 

[tommudd]

The front diff on the gasser sits to the right further than a CRD
so you have a really short left side on the CRD

 

[CRD Joe]

Seems like the best way to go is a Franky CRD Premium.

 

[Selwyn]

The CRD shaft is shorter, the question; How much shorter?
Selwyn

 

[CRD Joe]

Thanks Tony. Im pretty new to KJ suspensions. Ive built a few rigs in my time. Right now Im just trying to get my KJ knowledge up and running. I think ultimately Ill go with a solid axle front end.

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[tommudd]

About 1.5" iirc...

I've been lying under my KJ most of today and...I think a JBA 4" adjust a strut would be the way to go. There are to many 'if's' for me to start fabbing things up.

I put a jack under the front to see where I would like it to sit (Tommudd hight) and the coils touched the chassis and the UCA was a finger away from spring contact....CV angle was scary!!!

just wait until you come over and climb up into mine !