Leveling Suggestions???

[long_tall_texan]

OK. I didn't plan to lift my 07 Sport since it is a 4x2 and I don't do any off-roading. But after putting on the new wheels and tires, I get a slight fender rub at full lock sometimes. I figure this will solve the rubbing. (I have already pounded the pinch welds - rubbing is in the front of the fender) Plus, I think it would look much better to level it out. From what I have read, I have 3 options:

1. .75" Spacer from Rusty's in the front and then use extra isolator in the back to even it out. What is the rear isolator, where do I get them, how much do they cost, how many will I need to make ground to fender height the same as front with the .75" spacer?

2. OME springs up front. Do I need to do anything to the rear - additional isolators here too? Cost?

3. Airbag kit? I think i saw this suggested somewhere. Where do you get them? Cost?

Pros and cons of each?

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[tommudd]

small clevis lift in the front would set you level, cost would be an hours time and the cost of 6 rings about 3 bucks, would raise you 3/4 of an inch
why do you want to raise the rear or do you like the forward rake on the KJ?

 

[long_tall_texan]

I don't especially need to raise the rear. I just assumed that I would need to because of the front raising options. I didn't want the front to be higher than the rear. I want them to be level all the way across. However, I did accidentally bump the rear tire to the fender flare last night bouncing into a parking lot a little fast due to the wheels not being stuffed under the fenders all the way anymore.

What diameter diameter rings do I need? I have seen the how-to for the clevis lift, but don't think it said what size the conduit rings/nuts are.

 

[JJsKJ]

fwiw, I drove and wheeled 10's of thousands of miles w/ No clevis nuts used on a clevis lift. Raise it, Torque to specs and it should hold. At least it did for me.

 

[tommudd]

fwiw, I drove and wheeled 10's of thousands of miles w/ No clevis nuts used on a clevis lift. Raise it, Torque to specs and it should hold. At least it did for me.

I agree that it works but its just easier to shove 3 or so 2 inch rings (conduit nuts) in there and that way you are sure that both sides are the same and stay the same, I mean its not like they are expensive or anything. JMO
Heck I have 8 or 10 in the garage all the time ready and waiting!

 

[jsc7002]

I did the conduit nuts and I like having them there than nothing at all but that is just me. as for the additional rear isos they will give you .5" lift in the rear and you could add up to 2 on each side and when I bought mine I paid $16 each from the dealership. and the air lift air bags are mainly for heavy loads but they can take some of the weight off of your suspension and you can gain some height that way. I used the air bags for a 4runner bc I have a lift but if you arent planning on adding a lift I would just get the ones for the KJ

if it were me Id do the .75" spacer from rustys and a conduit or two and then 2 rear isos on each side

 

[long_tall_texan]

OK. So the more I look at the options, I think I want more than "just" the clevis lift. So the next option is the Daystar spacers up front ($20) and a couple of isolators per side in the back ($70). That is $90 for 1.5" lift. So why not just get the entire 2.5" Daystar Lift Kit? It is only $155 (http://www.boulderbars.com/kjproducts.htm). Pretty decent price for what you get. One question though, with that lift, do I have to/need to replace my shocks/struts? Remember, this is my DD, not an off-roader.

 

[icarl]

If all you want is the daystar lift then you should replace your rear shocks but it is not necessary to replace the front struts. Besides dampening all the rear shocks do is limit droop. So with longer springs then you will have less travel. So to restore that travel use longer shocks. In the front you do not want more droop or your a-arms will hit the springs.

 

[jsc7002]

with the Daystar 2.5" you need to replace your rear shocks and bumpstops but if you want a better ride you could also replce your front but its not mandatory

 

[tommudd]

don't have to replace the front shocks but why not???
1) you have it torn apart so upgrade to Ranchos
2) stock shocks are junk after 25/30,000 miles so upgrade
3) sooner or later you may want to do a full coil lift so get the right shocks now
reason to do it now for a better ride, last longer etc far out weigh not doing it
I always like it when people say it's my DD, all of ours are, mines been lifted over 70,000 miles (has 111,000 on it) If I had to do it all over again, it would get OME Heavy Dutys/ Rancho shocks at 0 miles, so much better ride / look etc.

 

[long_tall_texan]

One more question. Just want to get all my options before I decide. Which rear isolator are people adding to the rear suspension - The upper or lower? Or does it matter? Also, I know I followed a link from this site yesterday that led me somewhere that sold them online. It showed a picture of the whole suspension broken down with all the parts and had both the upper and lower isolators listed. The uppers were ~$10, and the lowers were ~$15. Can someone point me to the best priced place to buy the isolators?

 

[tommudd]

most use uppers but I have installed both before with no problems, currently I have two lowers installed ( stock and another one) and one upper ( the stock one) Another lift I just did the other day on a KJ I used two upper and the stock lower though, same amount of lift. On mine thats what I had laying around extra

 

[jeepkj02]

One more question. Just want to get all my options before I decide. Which rear isolator are people adding to the rear suspension - The upper or lower? Or does it matter? Also, I know I followed a link from this site yesterday that led me somewhere that sold them online. It showed a picture of the whole suspension broken down with all the parts and had both the upper and lower isolators listed. The uppers were ~$10, and the lowers were ~$15. Can someone point me to the best priced place to buy the isolators?

Uppers.....just get them from your local friendly stealership. You may find them cheaper on the internet for a couple bucks less, but after you factor in shipping its about the same.

 

[jeepkj02]

IIRC the isolators are originaly for a CJ or TJ?

Nope, it is just the original upper isolator. Basically stacking an additional one on top of the factory one to give you 1/2" lift. The CJ/YJ came with leafs springs all around.

 

[SDLiberty]

with the Daystar 2.5" you need to replace your rear shocks and bumpstops but if you want a better ride you could also replce your front but its not mandatory

I have the exact libby as long_tall_texan, mine is just an 04. With the daystar lift does this come with rear bumpstops? If not where do i get just those?? And do i replace the rear shocks with the RSX 17505's?

 

[SDLiberty]

Ah? I did see pics of some flashy yellow isolators..

No you don't get rear bumpstops, but you can easily make them yourself out of 4 hockeypucks or cut a rubber mallet in two. Rancho rear shocks are the RSX 17004.

Ahhh.. yes i've been corrected thank you.

 

[jsc7002]

no it doesnt come with any rear bumpstops you can use hockey pucks though, and if you need some I have 8 that I was going to use for that but I didnt just pay shipping which would be $10. and the RSX17505 is for the front and RSX17004 is for the rear-which are orginally made for the durango but they work on the KJ as well

 

[SDLiberty]

What is the best way to seperate UCA? Some where i heard that a pickle fork is a bad idea, but can't seem to find where i read it.

 

[tommudd]

do not hit the hub, hit the upper part of the spindle right at the UBJ with one hammer 2 or three times that should do it. Its worked for me over 30 years don't need any of that fancy crap, only thing they will do is tear up the ball joint boot, which you can not buy and have to replace the arm then

 

[tjkj2002]

do not hit the hub, hit the upper part of the spindle right at the UBJ with one hammer 2 or three times that should do it. Its worked for me over 30 years don't need any of that fancy crap, only thing they will do is tear up the ball joint boot, which you can not buy and have to replace the arm then

As with what tommudd stated but here is a pic showing where to hit.

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