Just what am I missing?

[Ry' N Jen]

Either I am ******** (Well, we all know I am! ) or just not seeing it...
The front Cigar lighter/ 12 volt accessory power outlet port has ceased functioning.
I have checked the fuse panel:
Cavity # 1. 20 amp fuse- Yellow- Power Outlet (Front)
As well as:
Cavity # 31. 20 amp fuse- Yellow- Cigar Lighter.

Both of the fuses are fine. I did however replace them with fresh new
fuses several times and the front (In the centre stack. Below the heater control on right side of console {To the right of the cubby hole}) still does not work!
I will also add that I am not getting any power at the fuse block inside the car at either Cavity # 1 or Cavity # 31.
(Problem with the Body Control Module?)
I have also examined the fuse block under the hood in front of the battery.

Although I tested the actual Power Outlet / Cigar Lighter with a multi meter,
could it be that the Power Outlet / Cigar Lighter outlet is defective?
I did unplug the outlet and test all three plug in points and am not getting any
power (It reads 0.05 volts).
Bad ground is what I am thinking.

I am thinking that this is the case!

I've been up for the last 44 hours...
I need to get some sleep and give it a fresh start....

But any suggestions would be really appreciated.

Also, could one of you (Canadian KJ owners) pull both #1 and #31 fuses and see if those are even the correct fuses.
According to my owners manual these are the ones that I should be looking at!

Cheers
Ry'

 

[LibertyTC]

Can anyone test their fuse in #1 and remove it to confirm that is the correct fuse for the front accessory socket and that it is live hot at all times?? HELP Ryan out here!
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Ryan had no power at 1 fuse or 31. Rear #16, I believe he had power at fuse?
Good new is that it look like it comes from fuse panel not through BCM. I would like an expanded electrical view but above is from FSM.

 

[tjkj2002]

I've replaced more cig/power ports then fuses for said ports,just a idea.Take out port and check the ohm's through the connections on the port itself,no ohm's port no good.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

I've replaced more cig/power ports then fuses for said ports,just a idea.Take out port and check the ohm's through the connections on the port itself,no ohm's port no good.

I'll try that tomorrow...
Now it's time for a shot of whiskey and a cold beer...
Then bed.

Thanks.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Wow, I am really sleep deprived right now! I've been up for over
59 hours!
I've ripped half the dash apart this evening, gone over everything
with a multimeter...

Ya know, if I can't figure this problem out within the next couple
of days...

I'm just going to run two dedicated 12 gauge wires (one red one
black) straight from the battery along with a 30 Ampere fuse and
just wire in two additional 12 volt accessory power outlets into the
drivers compartment.
I know it is not the solution to the problem, but I just don't feel like F:favorites68:ing around with wiring right now!
In time I'll figure out the problem and then I'll have three power outlets
up front.

And people bit ch about English vehicles wiring systems?
I'll tell ya, my Mini's have never had any electrical problems!

 

[LibertyTC]

Ryan Just tested my Jeep's Panel.
#3 as shown in photo controls the Front Accessory Socket. It should be a 20 amp fuse.
Used wire tap, also no voltage at fuse using seat bolt as ground.
You got .06 volt sometime in your test, which is indicative of BCM sensor voltages.
Recommend you check your # 3 Fuse and go get another Factory acc socket try that first!
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[Ry' N Jen]

Yup!
That be the fuse Tim!
Still don't get why according to the owners manual it says that
Cavity #3 is for the horn though?
Considering that the horn still worked!
Anyway, it works again...

 

[LibertyTC]

Ryan, So glad you have it working again! (you can sleep now)
Was the fuse #3 just blown ?
The photo below is from the 04 online download manual.
When you get some time compare this list against book in your KJ.
Also note in your rig fuse #16 should also be a 20 amp not 10 that is in your panel.
Fuse # 29 should be a 10 amp not 15.
Fuse #30 should be a 15 not a 10 (you got them backwards)
40226[/ATTACH]"]

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[Ry' N Jen]

Ryan, So glad you have it working again! (you can sleep now)
Was the fuse #3 just blown ?
The photo below is from the 04 online download manual.
When you get some time compare this list against book in your KJ.
Also note in your rig fuse #16 should also be a 20 amp not 10 that is in your panel.
Fuse # 29 should be a 10 amp not 15.
Fuse #30 should be a 15 not a 10 (you got them backwards)
40229[/ATTACH]"]

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(Fuse #29 & #30:disgust: Dyslexic! :smokin

Yup, gonna sort them out this weekend.

Also going to replace all of them with the L.E.D. type ATC fuses that "glow
when they blow!"
Like these:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac..._/N-25gq?counter=3&itemIdentifier=392510_0_0_

I am going to scan the fuse chart from my 2004 Jeep Liberty Owners Manual
and post it here so people can see that it's a typo right from Chrysler!
I wonder if anybody else has this Cluster F:favorites68:K!
Cavity #3. 15 Amp-Blue Horns! Pfff. :dancingpoop:

 

[Banditsteve]

Wow, I am really sleep deprived right now! I've been up for over
59 hours!
I've ripped half the dash apart this evening, gone over everything
with a multimeter...

Ya know, if I can't figure this problem out within the next couple
of days...

I'm just going to run two dedicated 12 gauge wires (one red one
black) straight from the battery along with a 30 Ampere fuse and
just wire in two additional 12 volt accessory power outlets into the
drivers compartment.
I know it is not the solution to the problem, but I just don't feel like F:favorites68:ing around with wiring right now!
In time I'll figure out the problem and then I'll have three power outlets
up front.

And people bit ch about English vehicles wiring systems?
I'll tell ya, my Mini's have never had any electrical problems!

Apart from water in the dizzy cap if it rains? :happy175: Quality english workmanship and design on the "A Series" engine! You can just imagine two blokes sat on a pile of tyres with a mug of tea saying "We will stick the distributor at the front pointing towards the grill, that should make it easy to change the points!" And by the time it got into production it was too near to the grill! (Easier to take the distributor out than take the grill off) (Dwell angle 57 degrees plus or minus 5 degrees if my memory serves? God I am sad! :smokin:

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Apart from water in the dizzy cap if it rains? :happy175: Quality english workmanship and design on the "A Series" engine! You can just imagine two blokes sat on a pile of tyres with a mug of tea saying "We will stick the distributor at the front pointing towards the grill, that should make it easy to change the points!" And by the time it got into production it was too near to the grill! (Easier to take the distributor out than take the grill off) (Dwell angle 57 degrees plus or minus 5 degrees if my memory serves? God I am sad! :smokin:

Good one Steve!

You know that the A Series is used as a tractor engine!
They even made a super charger for it!

 

[Banditsteve]

Good one Steve!

You know that the A Series is used as a tractor engine!
They even made a super charger for it!

Yes that engine has been used in so many cars, its unbelievable! Sometimes transverse, sometimes right way round, Morris 1000 to MG Metro and everything inbetween! Cue wavy picture and dreamy music and rose tinted glasses.............. :happy175: Keep your mini going Ry, they are gems! Shame British Leyland forgot to build a profit margin into the first few thousand! True! Doh! :happy175:

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Yes that engine has been used in so many cars, its unbelievable! Sometimes transverse, sometimes right way round, Morris 1000 to MG Metro and everything inbetween! Cue wavy picture and dreamy music and rose tinted glasses.............. :happy175: Keep your mini going Ry, they are gems! Shame British Leyland forgot to build a profit margin into the first few thousand! True! Doh! :happy175:

Oh I will!
I am the second owner from new. It only has 24,000.0 Original miles on it!
My dad bought it new in 1976 for a whopping $3650.00!
A bone stock one sold for $1600.00!
Don't ask how much I've plugged into it though!
Just ********!

 

[WesChapman]

I will also add that I am not getting any power at the fuse block inside the car at either Cavity # 1 or Cavity # 31.

Ry'

I'm guessing your problems stem from calling your Jeep a car....

sorry, couldn't resist. :icon_lol:

 

[Ry' N Jen]

I'm guessing your problems stem from calling your Jeep a car....

sorry, couldn't resist. :icon_lol:

Good one Wes!
My bad!
he by product of having been awake for the last three days!

 

[LibertyTC]

Let’s inspect interior fuse panel more closely.
Here is the count for replacing with glow blow LED:
10 AMP RED = 19
15 AMP Blue = 6
20 AMP Yellow= 7 (Total 32)

Top left High Beam Module is missing or not needed with daytime running lights installed? Ryan say's module is located on back of fuse panel-oh ok.
#3 is cigar lighter, Ok but I don’t have one, so it is the front power outlet.
#8 is Spare with no fuse installed.
#10 is also spare with no fuse.
#15 is Spare special plug in.
#20 is Spare no fuse.
#22 Has Fuse: Power Sunroof /Antenna Module/Export but I don’t have sunroof.
#23 is Spare no fuse.
#25 is Heated Seats has fuse HVAC/Control Head/ Trailer Tow/Battery Charge -Huh?
#28 is spare, has no fuse.
#30 Heated seat module-has fuse but I don’t have heated seats.
#31 is spare, guess what it actually has a 20 amp fuse!
#35 is spare no fuse.
#38 ABS controller has fuse also for shift controller ( I don’t have ABS)

I dont think you can even put a fuse in these spare locations, no metal clips? No place on panel to hold spares?
Will have to look closer at panel.
What was the point then just blank?

 

[simond]

Great tech suport!! but where are you founding all of those plan on the net? could be usefull !

 

[Banditsteve]

Oh I will!
I am the second owner from new. It only has 24,000.0 Original miles on it!
My dad bought it new in 1976 for a whopping $3650.00!
A bone stock one sold for $1600.00!
Don't ask how much I've plugged into it though!
Just ********!

Yes, old cars are money pits but worth every penny as it's a labour of love. Hope its a Cooper? Got a chance of getting one myself at the moment. Not seen it yet but apparently it resembles a tea bag - Full of perforations! Hehe.
Top of a very slippery slope at the moment. Hmmmmm :shrug: :smokin:

 

[Ry' N Jen]

Yes, old cars are money pits but worth every penny as it's a labour of love. Hope its a Cooper? Got a chance of getting one myself at the moment. Not seen it yet but apparently it resembles a tea bag - Full of perforations! Hehe.
Top of a very slippery slope at the moment. Hmmmmm :shrug: :smokin:

Depending of the year of the Cooper, it might be worth it!
I have spent decades working on Mini's, both professionally and a hobbyist..
If you need any help or advice, please let me know?

 

[Banditsteve]

Depending of the year of the Cooper, it might be worth it!
I have spent decades working on Mini's, both professionally and a hobbyist..
If you need any help or advice, please let me know?

Cheers Ry. I used to work on British Leyland myself years ago when I was an apprentice technician. Then, (speaks quietly) Lada, Mitsubishi, Saab, and anything else that drove or pushed through the door! Oh happy days.............. Hehe. :happy175: