JBA OME lift vs ALL J Frankenlift

[mindbomb]

The differences I'm seeing between these two (most recommended) budget no-UCA-replacement 2.5" lift kits:

1. JBA OME has 60069 OME shocks in the rear while Frankenlift has OME132L -- Whats the difference between those two shocks??
2. Frankenlift front strut assembly comes preassembled
3. Frankenlift costs ~400$ more. Is that because of the previous clause??

Similarities:
Rest of the parts AND
If I understand correctly both kits will require additional purchase of bump stops (teraflex front, hockey pucks rear), front clevis rings, rear isos, strut spacer plates (optional I guess). Correct?

 

[dude1116]

The differences I'm seeing between these two (most recommended) budget no-UCA-replacement 2.5" lift kits:

1. JBA OME has 60069 OME shocks in the rear while Frankenlift has OME132L -- Whats the difference between those two shocks??
2. Frankenlift front strut assembly comes preassembled
3. Frankenlift costs ~400$ more. Is that because of the previous clause??

Similarities:
Rest of the parts AND
If I understand correctly both kits will require additional purchase of bump stops (teraflex front, hockey pucks rear), front clevis rings, rear isos, strut spacer plates (optional I guess). Correct?

I believe the Frankenlift uses a different kind of top plate as well.

The 60069 OME shocks are stock length shocks. Be careful there. JBA used to offer the extended ones with this kit but no longer does. The shocks with the Frankenlift kit are the extended shocks that you would need. I replaced mine with Bilstein 4" longer shocks with my kit, as I was already topping out the 60069 shocks at only the standard 2.5" lift.

 

[tommudd]

The differences I'm seeing between these two (most recommended) budget no-UCA-replacement 2.5" lift kits:

1. JBA OME has 60069 OME shocks in the rear while Frankenlift has OME132L -- Whats the difference between those two shocks??
2. Frankenlift front strut assembly comes preassembled
3. Frankenlift costs ~400$ more. Is that because of the previous clause??

Similarities:
Rest of the parts AND
If I understand correctly both kits will require additional purchase of bump stops (teraflex front, hockey pucks rear), front clevis rings, rear isos, strut spacer plates (optional I guess). Correct?

For the frankelift only bumpstops front and rear
If going just OME then front and rear bumpstops, top plate and clevis ( 3/8 inch only )
OF copurse with both going that height will also need the JBA UCAs as well since you'll be over 3.5 inches of lift

 

[mindbomb]

For the frankelift only bumpstops front and rear
If going just OME then front and rear bumpstops, top plate and clevis ( 3/8 inch only )
OF copurse with both going that height will also need the JBA UCAs as well since you'll be over 3.5 inches of lift

Why over 3.5"? OME states 1.5" and practically its 2.5", I'd add a 1/4" clevis and that's it.
I want to avoid replacing UCAs, I checked my UBJs today and they're fine, rear isos also good. I want to avoid the extra 450$ cost + few hundreds extra $ for the work involved in replacing UCAs it.

 

[Jbergun]

I am looking at ome/bilstein just want a nice level slightly lifted kj. I dont want to spend alot on extras. From what i have read no clevis no top plate no extra isos puts me up and level.

 

[tommudd]

Why over 3.5"? OME states 1.5" and practically its 2.5", I'd add a 1/4" clevis and that's it.
I want to avoid replacing UCAs, I checked my UBJs today and they're fine, rear isos also good. I want to avoid the extra 450$ cost + few hundreds extra $ for the work involved in replacing UCAs it.

LOL
If you dont want to replace the UCAs stick to 3 i ch and below, stock will work ok at 5hat height. OME and top plate in front, one extra jso in the rear per side and done, or just run spri gs only for 2.5 i ches

Not sure where you are getting your numbers from as far as hundreds more but cost of the arms at 400 plus 30 minutes time at most

 

[tommudd]

I am looking at ome/bilstein just want a nice level slightly lifted kj. I dont want to spend alot on extras. From what i have read no clevis no top plate no extra isos puts me up and level.

Up , level and 2.5 inches,

 

[mindbomb]

LOL
If you dont want to replace the UCAs stick to 3 i ch and below, stock will work ok at 5hat height. OME and top plate in front, one extra jso in the rear per side and done, or just run spri gs only for 2.5 i ches

Not sure where you are getting your numbers from as far as hundreds more but cost of the arms at 400 plus 30 minutes time at most

JBA UCAs are 400 before tax and shipping.
Even mechanic superman won't replace two control arms in 30 mins. Getting my numbers from 4 different shops that quoted me extra 350-500$ for UCAs replacement.
Overall this upgrade will be around a grand out of pocket no matter how we look at it.



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[tommudd]

JBA UCAs are 400 before tax and shipping.
Even mechanic superman won't replace two control arms in 30 mins. Getting my numbers from 4 different shops that quoted me extra 350-500$ for UCAs replacement.
Overall this upgrade will be around a grand out of pocket no matter how we look at it.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

350 to 400 to install arms? Its not a 3 to 4 hour job, when I'm doing a lift here and installing arms it literally 10 minutes passenger side, maybe 20 drivers at the very most. Now if adding arms later its 15 for passenger and 25 drivers due to removing everything. CRDs of course take longer. Weve done probably at least 20 to 25 sets here, not includi g 2 on my 04 and one set on the 03

No mechanical superman either just know what I'm doing and am sure others on here either has ave done or could in the same time frame. Nothing hard to install them.

 

[dude1116]

350 to 400 to install arms? Its not a 3 to 4 hour job, when I'm doing a lift here and installing arms it literally 10 minutes passenger side, maybe 20 drivers at the very most. Now if adding arms later its 15 for passenger and 25 drivers due to removing everything. CRDs of course take longer. Weve done probably at least 20 to 25 sets here, not includi g 2 on my 04 and one set on the 03

No mechanical superman either just know what I'm doing and am sure others on here either has ave done or could in the same time frame. Nothing hard to install them.

It takes you that kind of time because you know what to do. The first time I replace the UCAs it took me ~2 hours. 20 minutes for the passenger side and the an hour 40 for the drivers'

@OP - It's actually not a very hard installation to do yourself if you would like to give it a shot. In fact, none of the KJ's suspension is difficult to deal with after being explained and walking through it slowly. You can save a lot of money on labor if you do it yourself...however I do understand if you do not have the confidence to do it.

At springs + 1/4" clevis, I believe you should be fine with stock arms. They might not last too long and they might bang around on the springs a bit. That should leave you at 3". My suggestion would be to start off at 2.5" all around. Feel it out and see how it meets your needs. If you need the extra half inch, simply adjust the clevis up and add an extra spring insulator to each side in the rear. Then you're at three inches after just a few $$ spent.

I hope this helps. I know I scrutinized over the lift myself. I had only taken the front suspension apart once with the guidance of a friend that knew nothing about Liberties. When I did it for my lift, I took my time. Spread it out over three days (drove around with just the rear lifted for a bit :rofl:. I did it right. I used this forum as my key reference and was able to get everything apart and back together in the front MUCH easier than that first time my friend and I tried. Because I read and read and read. Both sides were simple for me.

The only thing that would and SHOULD be done at a shop would be to put the coilovers together (if you don't have it done by your vendor of choice).

Hope this helps.

PS - I may be taking my front apart again to do my lower ball joints. If you need pictures, let me know before hand. I hope to get this done within 2 weeks.

 

[JasonJ]

Why over 3.5"? OME states 1.5" and practically its 2.5", I'd add a 1/4" clevis and that's it.
I want to avoid replacing UCAs, I checked my UBJs today and they're fine, rear isos also good. I want to avoid the extra 450$ cost + few hundreds extra $ for the work involved in replacing UCAs it.

2.5 from the springs, 3/8" clevis adds 3/4" lift, 1/4" clevis adds half inch. The lift gained by each is double the thickness/amount you lifted. 2.5 + .75 + .50= 3.75" and the need for JBA UCA's.

OME 2.5" lift with 1/4" clevis and you'll be at a nice and even 3.0" and can keep your stock UCA's.

JBA UCAs are 400 before tax and shipping.
Even mechanic superman won't replace two control arms in 30 mins. Getting my numbers from 4 different shops that quoted me extra 350-500$ for UCAs replacement.
Overall this upgrade will be around a grand out of pocket no matter how we look at it.

It isn't our fault that the auto shops in Cali like to screw you guys over their labor prices. lol. $350-$500 labor for the upper control arms on a KJ is INSANE. That's likely the shop's way of trying to get you NOT to agree to the job.. because they don't want to do it.

 

[tommudd]

2.5 from the springs, 3/8" clevis adds 3/4" lift, 1/4" clevis adds half inch. The lift gained by each is double the thickness/amount you lifted. 2.5 + .75 + .50= 3.75" and the need for JBA UCA's.

OME 2.5" lift with 1/4" clevis and you'll be at a nice and even 3.0" and can keep your stock UCA's.



It isn't our fault that the auto shops in Cali like to screw you guys over their labor prices. lol. $350-$500 labor for the upper control arms on a KJ is INSANE. That's likely the shop's way of trying to get you NOT to agree to the job.. because they don't want to do it.

Don't know how to do it is more like it

 

[JasonJ]

Don't know how to do it is more like it

Agreed Tom.

i should also add, that instead of OME 2.5" and a clevis, I would recommend doing the OME 2.5" lift and the top plate first... then you can lift more, or adjust for level side-to-side with the clevis. Extra rear upper iso of course to level it front to back.

But that's just me and how I plan to do it.

 

[tommudd]

Agreed Tom.

i should also add, that instead of OME 2.5" and a clevis, I would recommend doing the OME 2.5" lift and the top plate first... then you can lift more, or adjust for level side-to-side with the clevis. Extra rear upper iso of course to level it front to back.

But that's just me and how I plan to do it.

We've done it every which way here, even some ways that are not even listed or approved by the Board of Mental Health !:Insane:

But plywood, cutting boards were included at the time ( all to prove a point and to further KJ Lift Research )

 

[JasonJ]

We've done it every which way here, even some ways that are not even listed or approved by the Board of Mental Health !:Insane:

But plywood, cutting boards were included at the time ( all to prove a point and to further KJ Lift Research )

That's a very WOODEN approach, don't you think? :ROFLJest: I think I would get BOARD with a suspension that stiff.

But then you wouldn't have to worry about sagging and dropping below that TREE inches of lift you just got.

lol... oh I kill me sometimes... :happy175:

 

[mindbomb]

Hey thanks for the help!
Yea any suspension system work pics will be helpful.
I got my LBJs replaced in the last recall for free - I bet you can too!

So you say I should pass on the plates, clevises and isos?

Also given the info the OME lift on JBA has stock shocks in rear I'm thinking I'll go with your style of setup - OME927/948 springs and front OME shocks rear Bilstein 2.5"s, now question is what should I added to that except bumpstops if I don't want to replace the UCAs.

It takes you that kind of time because you know what to do. The first time I replace the UCAs it took me ~2 hours. 20 minutes for the passenger side and the an hour 40 for the drivers'

@OP - It's actually not a very hard installation to do yourself if you would like to give it a shot. In fact, none of the KJ's suspension is difficult to deal with after being explained and walking through it slowly. You can save a lot of money on labor if you do it yourself...however I do understand if you do not have the confidence to do it.

At springs + 1/4" clevis, I believe you should be fine with stock arms. They might not last too long and they might bang around on the springs a bit. That should leave you at 3". My suggestion would be to start off at 2.5" all around. Feel it out and see how it meets your needs. If you need the extra half inch, simply adjust the clevis up and add an extra spring insulator to each side in the rear. Then you're at three inches after just a few $$ spent.

I hope this helps. I know I scrutinized over the lift myself. I had only taken the front suspension apart once with the guidance of a friend that knew nothing about Liberties. When I did it for my lift, I took my time. Spread it out over three days (drove around with just the rear lifted for a bit :rofl:. I did it right. I used this forum as my key reference and was able to get everything apart and back together in the front MUCH easier than that first time my friend and I tried. Because I read and read and read. Both sides were simple for me.

The only thing that would and SHOULD be done at a shop would be to put the coilovers together (if you don't have it done by your vendor of choice).

Hope this helps.

PS - I may be taking my front apart again to do my lower ball joints. If you need pictures, let me know before hand. I hope to get this done within 2 weeks.

 

[JasonJ]

If you don't want to go above 2.5" of lift... just the OME kit and bumpstops and be done.

If you want to get up to 3.0", add a top strut spacer and extra rear isolator. You could also forego the top strut plate and instead do a Clevis lift... no more than 3/8" though. The tweaking of the clevis allows you to adjust a bit and go from that original 2.5" up to roughly 3" .. if you wanted. Just would have to jack up the truck, loosen the pinch bolt and move it up or down a skoshe.

Up to you really.. of course it isnt a huge deal to jack up the truk and slide in a top plate or rear upper spring iso either.. so whatever you want to do.

 

[dude1116]

Hey thanks for the help!
Yea any suspension system work pics will be helpful.
I got my LBJs replaced in the last recall for free - I bet you can too!

So you say I should pass on the plates, clevises and isos?

Also given the info the OME lift on JBA has stock shocks in rear I'm thinking I'll go with your style of setup - OME927/948 springs and front OME shocks rear Bilstein 2.5"s, now question is what should I added to that except bumpstops if I don't want to replace the UCAs.

I say do what fits what you need. If you are going to go for more lift right away, Jason is right you should do plates first. These take a little bit more effort to get in than clevis spacing (whole suspension apart vs unbolting/loostening a few things). You shouldn't need JBA arms for about 3.0" or below...but realize that there is a tolerance here. As you get closer to 3", you might experience problems with your (probably fairly old) upper control arms and ball joints a little bit faster. Mine had play in them when I removed them after only being lifted a couple thousand miles (basic 2.5" lift).

If you want to start at 2.5" and adjust from there...just adjust using the clevis lift technique (either blank space or conduit nuts). I started basic then when I had enough money for more lift I added top plates and clevis lift in the front, and ISOs in the back. I ended at about 4" in the front and 3.5" in the back.

You are on the right track with your basic lift. Just springs and shocks all around, and bumpstops all around. Net cost should be around $800-$900 depending on vendor. $50 a coilover give or take depending on shop choice to get the front put together.

Would probably look pretty good with 245/70s that you are looking at in your other thread. Otherwise 255/70 would be a good choice for that height. 245/75 might be a bit tight but probably very possible depending on tire and willingness to heat, mold, and cut plastic/pounding pinch welds.

This is the main thread I used to help install my lift:

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-install-frankenlift-*lots-pictures*-complete-29193/

I used this thread mainly for the front.

I used this thread mainly for the back (but has some good pictures for the front too...has a good explanation of clevis and top plate lifts):

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f202/how-purchase-install-wesway-lift-43781/#post454160

The only difference there is that you are NOT installing the extra insulators (note that isolator and insulator are interchangeable on this forum. Both refer to the same part)...you are removing the spring and replacing with another one. This is easy to do without extra insulators as there is plenty of room to slip in the new spring. With extra insulators i used coil compressors to help me get the coil into the spring perch.

Hope this helps!!!

 

[tommudd]

Hey thanks for the help!
Yea any suspension system work pics will be helpful.
I got my LBJs replaced in the last recall for free - I bet you can too!

So you say I should pass on the plates, clevises and isos?

Also given the info the OME lift on JBA has stock shocks in rear I'm thinking I'll go with your style of setup - OME927/948 springs and front OME shocks rear Bilstein 2.5"s, now question is what should I added to that except bumpstops if I don't want to replace the UCAs.

Request the longer OME shocks , just my 2 cents

 

[mindbomb]

Don't know how to do it is more like it

I guess that's correct - I wish there would be a solution for that / a recommended shop/person. Norcal KJ owners are really screwed if they are not knowledgeable enough / have the equipment or space to work on their jeep themselves.

Was thinking of driving to Big bear lake near LA to get All J to install the Frankenlift for me (they charge flat 350$) but they don't open on weekends.. :uhoh2: