Installing JBA UCAs this weekend!

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mindbomb

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As subject says - Installing the JBA UCAs this weekend! :winner_third_h4h:
Also will be opening up the UCA pockets.
I am looking for:

1. Pro tips / what to do / avoid during install
2. Step by step install guide / tutorial with proper pictures that still work / show (99% of how-to in this forum have broken links to photos).


Thank you!
 

tommudd

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As subject says - Installing the JBA UCAs this weekend! :winner_third_h4h:
Also will be opening up the UCA pockets.
I am looking for:

1. Pro tips / what to do / avoid during install
2. Step by step install guide / tutorial with proper pictures that still work / show (99% of how-to in this forum have broken links to photos).


Thank you!

Pretty simple really
Jack front up, place jackstand on frame
remove tires,
right side remove air box
remove nut on UBJ
after removing run back on a few thread
knock UBJ loose
remove nuts from bolts on UCAs ( right side very easy to get to )
remove bolts and UCA
Install JBAs up in place while holding in place slide bolts through
Tighten down until nut touches ( do not fully tighten until on ground with full weight)
Install UBJ on spindle
Tighten nut and install cotter key
replace air filter box etc
Remove battery and tray ( some don't and just fight their way around it for no longer than it takes makes it easier )
With long extension with swivel on the end remove rear bolt , ( some models you may have to loosen bolt holding brake line to move it enough to gain access )
remove front bolt and same as right side for reinstall

drop on ground and tighten all 4 bolts
replace battery tray etc now

As far as opening up the holes, no need to really
I have done it both ways and it works either way.
What I do on the ones I install is hit the part that sticks up with a hammer a few times so it leans inward some . That way it will self clearance the amount it needs to go .

By the way I do not do step by step install guides
 

mindbomb

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Pretty simple really

By the way I do not do step by step install guides

Well, you just did :gr_grin:
Thanks.

Couple of questions on the terminology/process:

  1. "Tighten nut and install cotter key" - whats that?
  2. "As far as opening up the holes, no need to really" - JBA recommends in the instruction manual. Why not if it'll give the UCA bushings larger angle? How do you do it? Not sure I understood what you mean by "part that sticks up with a hammer a few times so it leans inward some" Should I cut the excess plastic with shears?
 

tommudd

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Well, you just did :gr_grin:
Thanks.

Couple of questions on the terminology/process:

  1. "Tighten nut and install cotter key" - whats that?
    TIGHTEN NUT ON UBJ AND COTTER KEY GOES IN
  2. "As far as opening up the holes, no need to really" - JBA recommends in the instruction manual. Why not if it'll give the UCA bushings larger angle? How do you do it? Not sure I understood what you mean by "part that sticks up with a hammer a few times so it leans inward some" Should I cut the excess plastic with shears?
    IN THE"POCKET" THERE IS METAL THAT STICK UP MAYBE 1/4 INCH AT MOST, I HIT THAT WITH A HAMMER INWARD TO SLIGHTLY BEND IT OVER

As far as cutting -vs- just bending over I used to cut and fold over that bit of metal completely. So while JBA does say to do it, there have been cases that it let the UCA droop too much and caused issues on some.
So that why I changed over to just bending it over slightly, this not only lets the UCA self clearance itself, BUT also sort of leaves a " bed" for it to lay into without have a sharp area to come down on.
You may do whichever you like but this is just what I've found to work best for me and the ones I do now .
 

krisP

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found it easiest for me to get the socket with lots of extensions close to the rear driver side bolt then get the socket on the bolt from underneath
 

tommudd

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found it easiest for me to get the socket with lots of extensions close to the rear driver side bolt then get the socket on the bolt from underneath

Tried that before but could never get my hand and wrist to bend in 9 different places at the same time :happy175:
I can always reach down and put the swivel and socket on , plus my UCA swivel is taped up to make it stiffer to control it better.
BUT if we're talking CRDs ,:favorites68::favorites68::favorites68:
 

rockdart

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found it easiest for me to get the socket with lots of extensions close to the rear driver side bolt then get the socket on the bolt from underneath

Same here. Must be an 07 thing - it was really easy to get to from underneath - even had a clear view of it.
 

dude1116

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I went underneath with a few extensions and what not for that driver's side bolt.

I also never bent the metal around the arms. I seem to be doing well at 4". They may have bent themselves over. :shrug:
 

tommudd

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Could be an 07 thing,
well wait,........... I've done 02,03,04,05,06,and 07
maybe not
Its really not that hard from the top, ............
 

mindbomb

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Thanks for the help.
Are there any pre/post install steps required? like:
greasing ball joints / something else?
bolt re-tightening (after x miles)


I'll do re-alignment for sure.
 

HoosierJeeper

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Yeah you'll want to grease up the BJs if they aren't pre greased. Before you connect the BJ, see where the zerk fitting will hit the bumpstop and drill a hole for the zerk in the bumpstops.
 

tommudd

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Grease them
drill / cut hole for grease zerk to go into
tighten after on ground
alignment

Whoops , see Hoosier got ya before me:gr_grin::gr_grin:
 

rockdart

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Thanks for the help.
Are there any pre/post install steps required? like:
greasing ball joints / something else?
bolt re-tightening (after x miles)


I'll do re-alignment for sure.

Re-torque at 500 miles and again at 4K.

Or just keep adding stuff on and keep resetting the mileage count :happy175:
 

mindbomb

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Thanks! Oh and final question:
correct torque settings for the UCA nut and UCA holding bolts?
(and other bolts I'll be undoing?)
 

wheeee32

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