HOW TO: Replace the PCV Valve on (Some) 2007 and up Jeep Liberty

Discussion in 'How To' started by profdlp, Apr 7, 2015.

  1. profdlp

    profdlp On The Ledge

    Messages:
    5,035
    Likes Received:
    318
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Location:
    Westlake, Ohio
    I have a 2007 Liberty which was the last year for the KJ. My Jeep has a build date of September 19, 2006 but I have seen references to some of the 2007s still using the old style PCV on the oil filler tube. Many parts places will send you the angled PCV if you order solely by model year (which happened to me), so have a look before you spend your money.

    Instead of this:

    [​IMG]

    You may need one of these:

    [​IMG]

    Mopar Part# 53034065AA

    It is located back here:

    [​IMG]

    Here I have zoomed out to make it a little more clear:

    [​IMG]

    You will need to remove the hose clamp from the rubber boot elbow. I ended up using the smallest pair of channel locks I had, since it was hard to fit any other tool in there. If you have a pair of those nice remote hose clamp pliers they would be ideal. Getting the boot off is a pain. I discovered that the new style PCV is actually a two piece affair and the easiest way to do this job is by removing the hose from the other end of the boot and twisting it counter-clockwise. This separates the two pieces and lets you remove the boot off the (brown) upper half in your garage, instead of while leaning clear to the back of the engine compartment. After that it was a simple matter to GENTLY pry the boot off with a flat tip screwdriver. You don't want to gouge it and give yourself more Positive Crankcase Ventilation than the good folks in Toledo intended. It also helps to have the engine good and warm when you do this as it softens up the rubber boot considerably. (Trying to do it cold I couldn't even twist the rascal.) Wear some gloves, because I gave myself a nice long blister trying to remove the hot boot with my bare hand.

    You will need a 34mm socket to get the lower half out. It may look from the picture like there is room for a big crescent wrench, but there really isn't as it is nestled down between a lot of other stuff. Make sure you have a socket handle to match it. I didn't, and had to make a quick trip to the store to get an adapter to match the 1/2" drive socket to my 3/8" drive handle. Since it separates into two pieces you don't necessarily need an extra deep socket to remove the lower half where the nut is, though every socket that size I have seen is deep to begin with. If you have trouble finding it in your local chain auto parts store, check the axle socket section. Where I got mine they had them displayed separately from the regular sockets.

    Here is a picture with the upper half removed. The green arrow shows where I slid the hose clamp back to so it would be out of the way and I wouldn't forget to put it back around the hose before snapping everything back together:

    [​IMG]

    And here are the two halves. The arrows mark the bayonet-type thread where it comes apart:

    [​IMG]

    Here is a view of the inside of the upper half:

    [​IMG]

    And detail of the inside of the lower half:

    [​IMG]

    The new style valve comes with the thread compound pre-applied. Don't be tempted to replace it with Teflon tape - that stuff would melt in no time and who knows what havoc that might cause.

    If you have the tools on hand and follow the procedure, this would be a ten minute job. It took me a lot longer since I was learning while doing. I hope this benefits some of you.

    Jeep recommends replacing the PCV Valve every 50,000 miles. I paid $12 for the valve itself, so there's no good reason to leave a dirty old valve in there - you're going to end up paying a lot more than that in gas and performance. I just did this and will try and update this guide with any results I may see after I've driven around for a while with the new valve. I am currently at 58,000 miles, so I'm a little late in the game for getting this job done. Here's hoping for an extra mpg or two. :favorites13:
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2015
  2. TwoBobsKJ

    TwoBobsKJ Full Access Member

    Messages:
    2,637
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2011
    Location:
    Northern Ohio
    Very good write-up, Prof. Congrats for your persistence in figuring out the "idiosyncrasies" of your change-over year. :waytogo:

    Bob
     
  3. uss2defiant

    uss2defiant Full Access Member

    Messages:
    3,435
    Likes Received:
    85
    Joined:
    Jun 25, 2014
    Location:
    Tucson, Arizona
    It'll be a good idea to put the mopar part numbers up. good write up.
     
  4. twowings

    twowings Full Access Member

    Messages:
    802
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2014
    Location:
    Tulsa, OK
    Good job! This needs to be a sticky...
     
  5. profdlp

    profdlp On The Ledge

    Messages:
    5,035
    Likes Received:
    318
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Location:
    Westlake, Ohio
    :doh2: Added it to the article. Uh, yeah...might come in handy... :happy175:
     
    LibertyTC likes this.
  6. Birdman330

    Birdman330 Full Access Member

    Messages:
    667
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2013
    Location:
    Des Moines, Iowa
    Now that makes me want to go out and see if I have one on my 07'.
     
  7. profdlp

    profdlp On The Ledge

    Messages:
    5,035
    Likes Received:
    318
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Location:
    Westlake, Ohio
    If you're over 50,000 miles and haven't had it done I would recommend it. :)

    The twist-on elbow types were nice. I obviously never did this to my Jeep, but I can remember changing those in the parking lot outside the auto parts store with no tools. The hardest part of that job was walking the empty blister pack the PCV Valve came in back to the trash can in the parking lot. :icon_lol:
     
  8. Birdman330

    Birdman330 Full Access Member

    Messages:
    667
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2013
    Location:
    Des Moines, Iowa
    I'll do it tomorrow, hopefully weather is a touch more cooperative been misting, drizzling, raining on and off.
     
  9. profdlp

    profdlp On The Ledge

    Messages:
    5,035
    Likes Received:
    318
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Location:
    Westlake, Ohio
    Birdman: Did it ever stop raining? ;)
     
  10. Birdman330

    Birdman330 Full Access Member

    Messages:
    667
    Likes Received:
    14
    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2013
    Location:
    Des Moines, Iowa
    Yup I have one, so now that's on the to do list.
     
  11. ridgek

    ridgek New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2019
    Thanks for this, I almost ordered the wrong one for my 2007. Went and looked under the hood, and I have this version too.
     
    profdlp likes this.
  12. ridgek

    ridgek New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2019
    Since my service manual is wrong for my KJ, does anyone happen to have the torque spec for the valve?
     
  13. ltd02

    ltd02 Comfortably numb KJ Supporting Member

    Messages:
    2,589
    Likes Received:
    142
    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2014
    Location:
    North Central Maryland
    I think it's like a plumbing fitting (tapered). I'd just go snug and leave it. It isn't going to come out.
     
    profdlp likes this.
  14. ridgek

    ridgek New Member

    Messages:
    10
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2019
    Sounds good to me, I didn't notice the bit about the thread compound before; I guess that probably helps a lot in keeping it from vibrating loose. Thanks!
     
  15. profdlp

    profdlp On The Ledge

    Messages:
    5,035
    Likes Received:
    318
    Joined:
    May 21, 2013
    Location:
    Westlake, Ohio
    First thing that came to mind when I got mine was that it looked more like a plumbing or gas fitting than it did a Jeep part. The stuff on the threads is like pipe dope. I don't think it is going to rattle its way out (and if it does you've probably got bigger problems than a loose PCV valve!), so just having a good seal is enough. :)
     
  16. Wilson Bailey

    Wilson Bailey New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2019
    Does the PCV thread directly into the cylinder head?

    I just replaced mine and apparently I overtightened it because the threaded opening is now completely blown out.
     
  17. Patrick McCarty

    Patrick McCarty New Member

    Messages:
    1
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2020
    Years later this post is still helping people. Thank you! Very little to nothing out there about this. The only bit of information I didn't see was how tight to make it. The one I replaced was only about half way screwed down. I went a little further with the new one and stopped to reread this thread. Glad I did reading the last post... What was so wrong with the old easy pcv on all the other KJs.
     
  18. JeepCat

    JeepCat Full Access Member

    Messages:
    58
    Likes Received:
    19
    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2020
    Location:
    Aran Valley ❄️
    I had no knowledge about this, thx for posting it.