Discussion in 'How To' started by lavalva, Feb 21, 2005.
Easy fix!..and now my wife will shut the @#$! up about it.
I just had to do this in my 03 I've had for about 2 months. It only took me about 20 minutes, but I must admit it was slightly more difficult than I expected, only because of that fuckin red tab! The install was so much smoother once I decided to just break the dam thing off. Now my fan works at all speeds. I couldn't have done it without the info from this thread, thanks!
Most excellent site! I didn't know this problem was so common until I got on here. Not having any low blower setting is quite annoying. I am going to pick up the part today for my wife's 2004 Liberty.
Lost blower speeds 1 and 2, followed instructions in here, took 10 minutes. Awesome!
Is this related to the common problem of the heat cutting off while not moving? Mine resumes when my KJ starts rolling again. I thought there might be a connection.
No. You are low on coolant. Check the coolant level, and top it off. If it drops again, you got a leak on the lines or crack on the radiator. If your fan is working but blowing cold when you have the dial on the heat, coolant is the problem. When your fan is not blowing at all on certain speeds (1-3, since 4 is full current and will always work) then resistor block is the problem.
Thanks, hyedipin. I'm glad I found this forum. I can tell owning this KJ is going to be fun!
For the past year and a half, maybe longer, I've had full blast fan service only - i.e. no fan on 1, 2, or 3. I finally resolved to fix it this morning on the way to work; stumbled across this forum earlier this afternoon; picked up the part at the dealer for $20 later in the afternoon. Too psyched to fix it to be concerned with darkness, cold temperatures, freezing rain, and sleet, I just replaced the resistor module in my driveway.
Special thanks to Hyedipin for the pics on this thread! It really made the swap easy. Now I have a normal, functional fan!
red tab is a POS.
x2 on wife shutting up about it now...took care of mine this afternoon.
2007 Jeep Liberty Blower Motor Resistor
I can't seem to remove that red tab for the resistor. How do i pull that locking tab?
I just did the resistor block replacement this PM and it took me about 20 minutes. My procedure was a little different but it worked.
Removing the glove box gives you a fairly decent access to the resistor block. Coming in from the bottom with a flat blade screw driver I was able to pop the red tab. However, this is not the end of it. I found that simply popping it off cannot loosen the connector from the resistor block.
Next, with the connector still on the resistor block, I unscrewed the resistor block from the HVAC unit using a 5/16 socket on a flex joint. I was able to access both top and bottom screws from above the metal bar (that is partially in the way and is the support for the glove box). I suppose the bottom screw can also be accessed by a box wrench from the bottom as others have mentioned.
There is enough slack on the wiring harness to pull back and remove the resistor block from the HVAC unit with the harness still connected. Once it is removed from the HVAC unit, turn it around and lift the black tab (the one next to the loose red tab) away from the resistor block using a small flat bladed screw driver. This is the tab that keeps the harness from separating from the resistor block.
Once I was able to lift the black tab, the connector finally started to separate from the resistor block.
Screw in the new block, reconnect the connector, pop in the red tab and replace the glove box and it's done.
This thread was helpful. When I replaced mine, I pulled the resistor out and couldn't get the $#[email protected] tab out of the way to separate the connector from the resistor. I took my Dremel and cut the center tab out, and had to use some wd40 to loosen up the connection. The new resistor went in with a snap and everything is good as new again.
Here's what I been through in terms of replacing the resistor pack.
Started out Saturday with a dead battery. After getting the battery replaced found out that blower motor was only working on 4. Just replaced the resistor pack and now the blower is only going through the defrost vents.
I'm assuming I knocked out or broke a vacuum tube but where? I was only working in the interior of the car to replace the resistor so I wouldn't expect a tube to be out of whack under the hood. Any help is appreciated.
So, who's replaced this unit without disconnecting their battery?
I've just picked the replacement up (aftermarket) for $35.00 Canadian pukey.gif and am going to change it in about an hour, prior to going camping.
(I've only had hi #4 working for about 2 years now)
This HAS to be the fix, as nothing changes when I replaced the factory fan switch with a switch from the stealership.
ive done a bunch without unhooking the battery. just be carefull
Trouts rough steps for success.
Well this dang sucker had gone out on my wives car. dang't what a pain in the rear end.
anyways, since someone has already written the GQ how-to I am going to give the left-handed beer mechanics strategy.
1. Remove the glove box. At the bottom there are two sets of U-shape plastic clips that clip to the dash board. Just pop them dang things off. Give it just a touch of muscle with your free hand.
2. Once you got this god dang thing off. throw it to the side. don't lose your wives insurance card like i did. otherwise youll add a step at the end of this to walk inside and tell your wive you are a moron like i did and get your daily scolding.
3. anyways, now you have access. Instead of trying to be Mr. GQ and unhook the harness will the pack is bolted in, take out the two bolts the resistive pack to the dash. Once you have those out the wire harness and resitor pack will slide back.
4. Now, the little bugger red clip is right where you want her. Take her and pry her back about 1/8" to 3/16" of an inch (i can't remember how much). Just pry it back as much as you can without applying toughguy force. It aint the fifties anymore this is just plastic so be gentle. when you push the red tab out it should be easy to just pull the resistor pack off the harness. I had it off in 30 seconds.
5. alright now that the disassembly is done have a swig of beer and get back to work. plug the new resistor pack into the harness and push down the little red clip. then fasten the pack down with the two screws you removed earlier.
6. Then put the door back on.
For me there was a seventh step. I lost my wives dang insurance card while doing this, so be really careful to remove everything in the glove box before starting out.
Then have a beer, you deserve it. This is a great forum. I am always happy to read an post here. Have a good night.
Thanks for the help. I have a 2005 Liberty and here's how I did it:
1. Remove everything from the glovebox.
2. Press inwards on the left / right side of the glove box. Let it swing down but don't remove it.
3. Remove the upper and lower screws
4. Pull the resistor card out on the harness
5. Using a small blade common screw driver, push the black tab up from the bottom. Be careful and gentle.
6. Disconnect the plug.
7. Make sure the old gasket is not stuck on the housing that the card goes in.
8. Slide in the new resistor card and replace the two screws.
9. Plug-in the harness.
10. Twist the ignition key to the accessory position. Ensure everything works.
11. Push the glove box door back into place.
12. Put back in all the glove box fodder and close it.
Total time: 5 minutes
Wife happy points: +10
P.S. Total cost for the unit was a little more than $27 + sales tax (7%).
Hey all! Thanks for the great thread.
I picked up the part at the dealership for $20, and it took me all of 30 mins to do the project. The biggest PITA's were the lower black screw and the red tab.
Ok, for the life of me I cannot get the connector off. I'm afraid I'm going to break something. I've came back to this thread like 10 times and I still can't get it disconnected. I have everything out of the way and pulled the red tab back and pulled. I tried prying with a flat head too. WTF?
I also used a flat head, it works, If you break the red tab it should still be OK, although I am sure it serves a purpose to avoid shorts, etc.. but pull it hard, it should come off, unless it was fried and somehow fused? fiddle it up and down, sideways, etc..
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