Help!!!! No dash lights

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kjfan18

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Hey everyone, I have a little problem with my dash light illumination. I get all of the warning lights( check engine, fog light indicator, etc) those all work, just the lights that light the speedo and and rpm gauge and also the climate controls dont work. The dimmer switch will work the odometer and the radio, just will not work the illumination for anything else. I thought I check all the fuses but am I missing like a relay somewhere. I have to double check the fuses again when I get home from work today, but anything help is appreciated.
 

kjfan18

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ok, I got it figured out. I had a brain fart. lol. I checked all the fuses again and I ended up missing one that was blown. Just some info for everyone else, there are two fuses that control the lights on the dash and the climate control. The one that was blown was also connected to the tailights.
 

maverick7321

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ok, I got it figured out. I had a brain fart. lol. I checked all the fuses again and I ended up missing one that was blown. Just some info for everyone else, there are two fuses that control the lights on the dash and the climate control. The one that was blown was also connected to the tailights.

Good to know that no dash lights might also mean no taillights!
 

Birdman330

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ok, I got it figured out. I had a brain fart. lol. I checked all the fuses again and I ended up missing one that was blown. Just some info for everyone else, there are two fuses that control the lights on the dash and the climate control. The one that was blown was also connected to the tailights.

Auto manufacturers are getting overly notorious for doing that, reason why its done to keep you from pulling fuses to try and disable certain functions etc... That are Federal Mandatory. Like on some cars, pulling the ABS fuse may be tied into ignition or radio etc....
 

libertybob

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Fuse blown...

When a fuse blows there is a reason. What caused the current overload to blow the fuse? You need to find out as the cause could lead to serious problems. Frayed wire shorting out? Short in a component? Circuit overload for some reason? or defective fuse, although I have never seen this one? Were you working on the Jeep and shorted out a circuit somehow? (Have done this myself.) Dig a little deeper as to why fuses blow...there is a root cause.
 

megatone

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When a fuse blows there is a reason. What caused the current overload to blow the fuse? You need to find out as the cause could lead to serious problems. Frayed wire shorting out? Short in a component? Circuit overload for some reason? or defective fuse, although I have never seen this one? Were you working on the Jeep and shorted out a circuit somehow? (Have done this myself.) Dig a little deeper as to why fuses blow...there is a root cause.

(yeahthat)
 

Birdman330

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When a fuse blows there is a reason. What caused the current overload to blow the fuse? You need to find out as the cause could lead to serious problems. Frayed wire shorting out? Short in a component? Circuit overload for some reason? or defective fuse, although I have never seen this one? Were you working on the Jeep and shorted out a circuit somehow? (Have done this myself.) Dig a little deeper as to why fuses blow...there is a root cause.

I've been doing electrical wiring for about ten years now, I've learned a few things especially when it comes to fuses. That phrase is 50% true, because you have no idea how many times I've hooked up trailers and fuses blow out for no other reason than its a pitiful ten amp fuse, (put a new ten amp fuse back in and everything works perfectly fine and no re-blow outs of the fuses) I have come to learn to hate ten amp fuses. I have replaced more ten amp fuses than I care to, at the point I changed out many fuses on truck's and SUV's to 15 amp fuses when I hooked up trailers and the fuses blew. After that no more blow out issues and no electrical fires. If I hook up wiring to towing to the Libby, I will change all ten amp towing fuses to 15 amp to avoid them blowing out when hooking up to a trailer.
 

LibertyTC

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Ya some of these fuses may be too quick, in reaction time.
I also wonder how carefully they are tested/regulated.
One day I am going to find a local supplier, that has a sale on the glow when they blow fuses.
Littelfuse -smart fuse & Bussmann -easy ID make the fuses with the LED that illuminates.
Often they are difficult to tell if they are really blown without a VOM or tester.
 

Birdman330

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Ya some of these fuses may be too quick, in reaction time.
I also wonder how carefully they are tested/regulated.
One day I am going to find a local supplier, that has a sale on the glow when they blow fuses.
Littelfuse -smart fuse & Bussmann -easy ID make the fuses with the LED that illuminates.
Often they are difficult to tell if they are really blown without a VOM or tester.

I can tell you a lot of it has to do with the fact, many trailers have a very weak ground, causes a bit of a back rush when you hook up, thus blows 10 amp and weaker fuses right out. Same thing I have noticed when it comes to cigarette lighters which reminds I need to change the fuse out on that, second time ever in owning any vehicle I have had the fuse blow out. Last time, it was due to the extreme cold. I just started the car, plugged the charger in and blew out the fuse. When I say extreme cold, think -20 degrees outside.
 

libertybob

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I've been doing electrical wiring for about ten years now, I've learned a few things especially when it comes to fuses. That phrase is 50% true, because you have no idea how many times I've hooked up trailers and fuses blow out for no other reason than its a pitiful ten amp fuse, (put a new ten amp fuse back in and everything works perfectly fine and no re-blow outs of the fuses) I have come to learn to hate ten amp fuses. I have replaced more ten amp fuses than I care to, at the point I changed out many fuses on truck's and SUV's to 15 amp fuses when I hooked up trailers and the fuses blew. After that no more blow out issues and no electrical fires. If I hook up wiring to towing to the Libby, I will change all ten amp towing fuses to 15 amp to avoid them blowing out when hooking up to a trailer.

kjfan18, this is what I am talking about, a root cause. Were you hooking up a trailer? If so, the surge caused the fuse to blow. Whatever the reason you need to find it to determine if further danger exists. Thanks to Birdman330 for sharing his experience. Good to know this can happen. Birdman330, is 10 amp wiring heavy enough to carry 15 amps without over heating or burning out? Not being an electrician, I have no idea how much safety factor is built into wiring so have been afraid to use an oversize fuse. Would like to know.
 

Birdman330

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Never had any issues for all customer vehicles I upgraded to 15 amps on their fuses for towing, those are the only fuses I recommend changing to 15 and 15 only.
 

nowherefast77

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Know this is kinda old thread but researching an instrument cluster lamp issue in my 2011 KK led me here. Fwiw there's actually 3 fuses that control the interior lamps. They are 9,13, and 34. The various exterior lamps are on those fuses also.

I just mention this in case someone happens upon the thread like I did. Mine doesn't happen to be a fuse issue (already checked/tested & ruled out) but if you're experiencing a fault of this nature you have to look at all 3 of those fuses.
 

nowherefast77

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I think the idea behind it is good but I wonder how many average people would think that the fact they have no dash lights is actually a message saying they have no tail or brake lights. I'm willing to bet there's been a bunch of people that that've had that issue and drove around with no tails/brakes and never even knew.
 
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