Front Axle housing Broke....

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NCJeepin

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Some say i can remove the axle shafts and drive shafts and drive it, some say i can't.. Anyone done this?
 

NCJeepin

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I broke it wheelin it! lol The view is from the driveshaft looking down towards the pinion.

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Atrus

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It's too bad that with the fairly high occurrence of this happening an affordable solution isn't available :( It really makes me second guess wheeling my KJ.
 

kj924

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That sux!!!

Too bad DC in their infinite wisdom didn't put in a solid front axel in the Liberty. kopkrab.gif

Come on RL and the SFA conversion kit.:D
 

kb0nly

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How in the H, E, Double Hockey Sticks, did you break it that bad wheeling it??? WOW..
 

NCJeepin

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Skinny petal trying to get over a very small rock it was spinning on.

It was not wheel hopping or anything like that

I hit the petal maybe half way down in 4 low and 1st gear and PING and fluid started flowing
 

OHIO04KJ

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It's too bad that with the fairly high occurrence of this happening an affordable solution isn't available :( It really makes me second guess wheeling my KJ.
How common is this? I'm a new owner and am second guessing also.
 

tjkj2002

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All of the broken D30A's have been caused by one of the wheels spinning(the other not or very slowly compared to the other side) and then that one free spinning wheel suddenly catches traction which makes the pinion gear want to walk up the ring gear and due to the alloy construction of the D30A the pinion can and will walk which cracks the case.Those "collars" that some have installed is not a fix,the diff will still crack(already proven).There is better fix and that is to install a traction aid like the Detroit True Trac(and learn how to use it) or the ARB air locker(the only 2 that really work in the D30A).The DTT or ARB will help limit one tire free spinning and catching traction(shock loading) thus making the front diff live longer.

I ran the DTT for over 3 years and wheeled some pretty hard trails and never broke my front D30A(now a CV shaft is a different story).You can make the DTT act like a locker by applying the brake a little which fools it into "locking up" like a locker.By applying the brake a little it also made me slow down which also put less stress on the entire drivetrain also_Oh and having that rear ARB locked made that slower speed and making it over that obstical possible also.You'd be amazed and what you can do with your KJ with a DTT/ARB combo,sure it's some money but if you wheel you know how valuable lockers are instead of using alot of the stupid pedal and breaking parts(same reason why auto transmission have less breakages in trail rigs then sticks when similary outfitted).
 

kb0nly

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Ahh ok, so its the shock of getting one wheel airborne and then back down and gripping while still under load, got ya, now i know what to avoid.
 

ramlebliberty

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Damn man you just bought that thing like a month ago! O well time to order those jk 44's and begin cutting! I call dibs on the front crustys and skids ;)
 

bugnout

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The D30a case is weak at the driveshaft input. I've witnessed one grenade. It was not being abused when it happened, Left front spun and when it caught the case split.

Its happened to a lot of 02-07's. Some have tried a reinforcement collar on the diff housing. I have one on mine. I feel safer with it there, but I know of at least one instance where someone with a diff collar grenaded it. In general, fewer diffs have broken when they had a diff collar.

Getting a selectable locker also seems to reduce the chances of grenading as both wheels are spinning at the same speed. less likely to suffer the shock when just one wheel gets traction.

The KK Dana 30d is different and seems to be stronger. Haven't heard of anyone grenading one of those yet. It also has the advantage of fitting standard D30 gears, where the 02-07 Dana 30a are unique and only come in 3 ratio's.

I saw a post about a year ago (can't remember if it was here or on LOST) where someone was planning to try a swap, but the D30D in a 02-07, but never saw any follow up. Seems like it should be doable.
 
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jdumont

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Yea Ive been running since early April with no front DS or axles. I actually just got the DS repaired (U-Joint welded on front end) and looking at the halfshafts now to see if they are bad.

No issues at all with doing this.

1. Drain the diff
2. Seal off the two ends. I used butter containers cut to size RTVd in place and sprayed with undercoat.
 
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