exhaust cross pipe removal.

[Road_Runna]

Hi everyone, I'm having trouble removing the cross pipe on my 02, the reason I'm removing it, im trying to remove all old coolant and need to get the 2 coolant bolts out that are under or about where the cylinder heads are located, so far, its a real pain getting the cross over pipe out.
Ive loosed both clamps that go into the exhaust manifold, and I cant seem to get those out either.
Any ideas?

 

[Jbergun]

Your talking 13 years ago probably rusted together probably gotta cut it off you would do better hooking a hose up to get the coolant out or fill it wiyh distilled water drain fill it again with distilled water drain keep doing that until the water comes out clear water.

 

[M38 Bob]

You're going where angels fear to tread!

Bob


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Road_Runna]

alright well, lets switch things to the front driveshaft, how to pull that out?
do I have to remove the rear driveshaft first?
Ive removed the 12 8mm bolts that attach the front driveshaft connecting to the transfer case and to differential, but I cant pull it out, I see the ball at the front of the driveshaft but no dice pulling the DS out.

 

[tommudd]

alright well, lets switch things to the front driveshaft, how to pull that out?
do I have to remove the rear driveshaft first?
Ive removed the 12 8mm bolts that attach the front driveshaft connecting to the transfer case and to differential, but I cant pull it out, I see the ball at the front of the driveshaft but no dice pulling the DS out.

No need to remove the rear driveshaft
remove all the bolts, slide it together and drop it down out. Some take a wee bit of prying but very easy to remove

 

[Road_Runna]

I was able to disengage the driveshaft from the flanges, but its a pain to pull it out away from underneath, ive read a thread were someone was actually able to pull it out with the transmission crossmember still bolted. I'm done trying to get the cross pipe out, but the new problem is that I lost a 8mm open wrench in through the hole of the starter(banghead), I'm trying to pull the starter out, and see if I can fish it out with a bendable magnet or a grab tool.

 

[Road_Runna]

Is there a lower transmission cover bolted on? (one where you would remove to access the torque converter to flywheel bolts)

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Is there a lower transmission cover bolted on? (one where you would remove to access the torque converter to flywheel bolts)

Yes, it's called the structural cover and when removed you can access the bolts holding the torque converter to the flywheel.

The order in which the bolts are tightened and their torque values are very specific - do it wrong and the cover will crack. This is from the FSM:

(1) Position the structural cover in the vehicle.
(2) Install all bolts retaining the cover-to-engine. DO NOT tighten the bolts at this time.
(3) Install the cover-to-transmission bolts. Do NOT tighten at this time.

CAUTION: The structural cover must be held tightly against both the engine and the transmission bell housing during tightening sequence. Failure to do so may cause damage to the cover.

(4) Starting with the two rear vertical cover-to-engine bolts, tighten bolts to 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.), then tighten the front cover-to-engine bolts to 54 N-m (40 ft.lbs.), then transmission-to-engine bolts to 54 N·m ( 40 ft. lbs.)

Hope this helps.

Bob


 

[CactusJacked]

To get the driveshaft out; with the rear cv joint removed from the transfer case flange, push that end up between the case and tunnel, slide the shaft towards the back, lower the front of the shaft to clear the diff flange, and slide it out at a forward downward angle. Nothing but the driveshaft bolts needs to be removed.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

To get the driveshaft out; with the rear cv joint removed from the transfer case flange, push that end up between the case and tunnel, slide the shaft towards the back, lower the front of the shaft to clear the diff flange, and slide it out at a forward downward angle. Nothing but the driveshaft bolts needs to be removed.

I think I got an orphan KJ. I have to remove the shift linkage bracket or that sucker isn't coming out. But it's just one 15mm bolt and all the clearance I need (after removing the skids...)

Bob

 

[CactusJacked]

I think I got an orphan KJ. I have to remove the shift linkage bracket or that sucker isn't coming out. But it's just one 15mm bolt and all the clearance I need (after removing the skids...)

Bob

Must be an automatic thing then. I have a manny ******, and don't have any of that pesky linkage bull shift stuff in the way.

 

[Leeann]

Nothing was in the way of mine, either. And I have a slushbox.

 

[Road_Runna]

I've got an Automatic as well, and yes removing the shift linkage cable is a must, I finished everything I needed to do which was first removing that 10mm wrench inside the transmission valley where the fly wheel is at. Also including the coolant bolt at the engine.
I put in distilled water along with Phosphoric acid into the breather hole, to clean out anything that's out of my reach, I'm gonna re flush it tomorrow with distilled, and repeat the process 2 more times during this week, and then re-remove the reservoir, add 50/50 GO5 HOAT into the heater core, then the rest of the system.