Downshifted to 2nd to engine brake, P0871 thrown

Discussion in 'KJ General Discussion' started by oblivionnewtonjohn, May 10, 2019.

  1. oblivionnewtonjohn

    oblivionnewtonjohn Full Access Member

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  2. LibertyTC

    LibertyTC Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    How fast were you going when you shifted into 2nd gear?
    Is the trans fluid at the full line hot? How many miles since you last serviced the transmission?
    You are going to need a dealer or trans shop to read the CVI , check for any pending codes & clear etc.
    The OD Pressure Switch wiring /connector should be inspected/cleaned too.
     
  3. oblivionnewtonjohn

    oblivionnewtonjohn Full Access Member

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    55-60, nothing outrageous. Honestly, I had planned a flush once all the rain moved out. Is it worth a shot?
    Hate to waste the money and need more work, wasting the fluid etc.

    I'll check the fluid here in a bit, this literally happened the last stretch before home. I came in, tried not to get in a mood about it, chilled.
     
  4. oblivionnewtonjohn

    oblivionnewtonjohn Full Access Member

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    I let the engine get to op temp, checked level, looks a little low and is reddish brown.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. sota

    sota Full Access Member

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    can you Money Shift an auto? I thought they had systems that would prevent that.
     
  6. oblivionnewtonjohn

    oblivionnewtonjohn Full Access Member

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    Never was near redline, I've done this quite a few times when the troopers are out so they don't see my brake lights. As I said, I was only at about 50-55, this time as I shifted back to drive, it felt a little off, then CEL triggered.
     
  7. ltd02

    ltd02 Well-Known Member KJ Supporting Member

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    I thought so too.

    That fluid looks pretty bad. Does it smell burnt? Mine is very bright red.
     
  8. oblivionnewtonjohn

    oblivionnewtonjohn Full Access Member

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    def smells old and funky. I think I will flush it and change the filter. I've had so many home projects, I kept pushing that to the back burner.
    As LibertyTC said, still may need the digi box to reset. Hopefully, the HSV Jeep dealership won't rape me as they're big friends of Rocket City Wranglers.

    Looking through some old threads on Lost Jeeps, others were able to clear the code after some finagling, obviously, it won't if it's a persistent mechanical issue with solenoid.
    Hoping it was just a conditional issue exacerbated by old and low fluid that triggered CEL.
     
  9. oblivionnewtonjohn

    oblivionnewtonjohn Full Access Member

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    Shifts fine heading to the auto parts store to get flush supplies, finally got the code cleared.
    Appears it was a conditional issue.

    The filter kit came with rubber gasket though it showed none included. I got the Fel-Pro TOS18733 which looks and feels more heavy duty.
    I know I've seen it mentioned here and elsewhere the factory used RTV on the 45RFE, but many dealers have moved to gasket torqued to spec?
     
  10. LibertyTC

    LibertyTC Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    That fluid does not look too good. Here is what my ATF+4 looks like at 20k miles. Fluid is hot in photo.
    I would try to change the fluid & filter and the see what happens..edit- oh I see you got the code off-great stuff !
    [​IMG]
    I use a 42RLE lubelocker gasket & can be re-used a few times.
    Hopefully with new fluid it will be all good again..
    I have the PML pan w/drain plug & like to install new ATF+4 every 2 years
     
  11. oblivionnewtonjohn

    oblivionnewtonjohn Full Access Member

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    Out of curiosity, what's the part number for the 45RFE PML pan you have, I don't see one specifically mentioned for 03' KJ, just RFE "deep" and "deeper" 05' and 06' CRD etc
    https://yourcovers.com/transmission_pans.html
     
  12. LibertyTC

    LibertyTC Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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  13. oblivionnewtonjohn

    oblivionnewtonjohn Full Access Member

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    I got the fluid flushed, filters changed, cleaned and painted the pan. And low and behold, following the FSM for the 45RFE pan bolts torque specs at 105, the second one snapped and my torque wrench only goes to 80lbs and it never clicked! Time to upgrade the torque wrench.

    I used a higher quality Fel-Pro pan gasket and sealant, seems to be holding thus far. I want to replace the snapped bolt, anyone used this before?
    https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-62900-...d=1557771666&s=gateway&sr=8-7#customerReviews
     
  14. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Plus never downshift it into second at 55-60, ok to kick overdrive off but no reason to pull it down into second at that speed
    Don't care how many times you have done it or in what vehicles.
     
  15. mrlavalamp

    mrlavalamp Full Access Member

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    for your snapped bolt, if you can get the female nut extractors on it, they work really well and are a piece of cake to use. https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON...ords=nut+extractor&qid=1557776452&s=hi&sr=1-6

    If it is broke flush with the trans housing (and you cant get the female tool above on it) then you probably want to go with a properly sized drill bit and tap extractor like these: https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Da...DHW2GTFMWCG&psc=1&refRID=NCYSPBG7MDHW2GTFMWCG

    The all in one drill/extractors usually make things worse in my experience. The way I look at it, extraction is all about the details and taking your time to do it RIGHT the first try. If you do it right on your first try, you wont need a second or third, and wont need to solve for the problems created by doing it in a rush or after failing multiple times.

    Oh and those were both quick examples I could link to, not necessarily good tools/kits.
     
  16. ltd02

    ltd02 Well-Known Member KJ Supporting Member

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    You do know that the torque spec is 105 inch pounds right?
     
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  17. oblivionnewtonjohn

    oblivionnewtonjohn Full Access Member

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    I could be off about the speed, but it was nowhere near redline. But I will for sure be more cognizant of my driving habits. Ole Jeep is getting up there in years.

    I do now.... ;-) I inadvertently got them mixed up, lucky it was only one bolt. I knew that sounded high for such small bolts. I did the rest by hand. Lesson learned, never wrench when you have to be at work later. I replaced the oil sender earlier, I thought I had time to squeeze the transmission in. I have fascia and soffit to replace before the roofers come, so I am slammed with projects and chores.


    I may see if the gasket and sealant hold, upgrade to the PML pan and diff covers. Address the snapped bolt then. I still need to flush/fill the differential, transfer case.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2019
  18. oblivionnewtonjohn

    oblivionnewtonjohn Full Access Member

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    The transmission has been shifting fine through all the gears, but noticed the other day if in 2nd, if I stomp on the pedal to merge in traffic etc, it's doesn't kick down and takes a bit of time to get up to speed. Not slipping, just feels delayed. I checked the fluid, it was low for Hot reading, I originally started with the recommended 5qts for a general service when I flushed. I checked the level when at operating temp, read low for Hot so I added a 6th quart. The level then showed within the range . I ran some errands, checked the level at op temp again, still reads low for Hot. Could a low level be the reason for the kick-down issue? I assume it need to circulate for an accurate reading?

    Sorry for the fuzzy pic, the direct sunlight was throwing the auto-focus off. The level is almost in the middle, again this at operating temp and about 5 miles of driving.

    [​IMG]
     
  19. oblivionnewtonjohn

    oblivionnewtonjohn Full Access Member

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    I checked the Cold level reading and it was the same?
     
  20. LibertyTC

    LibertyTC Well-Known Member Staff Member Moderator

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    Operating temps (Hot Zone) is after 20+ minutes of hwy driving, it takes a while from cold to expand.
    It appears low, hwy drive it & then it should be within the HOT area, add some ATF+4 to get into the hot area & see how it responds then.