Do I have everything lol...

[Joejeeper420]

Since putting in the new engine and trans... It's been bugging me that the rest of my truck is not up to par... So today I went a little moog / parts crazy... I bought:

2 UBJ
2 LBJ
2 inner tie rods
2 outer tie rod ends
2 stabilizer bar links
2 stabilizer bar bushings
2 R&P bushings
2 complete front struts
new to me left and right knuckles
2 new rear springs
2 new durango shocks
1 rear upper BJ


also have to mention that I changed all the other bushings, engine, and trans mounts as well as the rear lower control arms... So I think that just about covers it all... Did I forget anything??

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[wheeee32]

...and a partridge in a pear tree. That's a pretty good sized shopping list.:evil:

 

[Joejeeper420]

Yes but thanks to the power of car-part.com, amazon, and eBay... all can be had for less than $500.00

 

[Joejeeper420]

On a side note I feel as though I can take the new knuckles, bearings, and lower ball joints to the machine shop... Have them put together and just straight swap them along with the upper ball joints without needing a wheel alignment... Am I correct in my assumption??

 

[CzarKJ]

On a side note I feel as though I can take the new knuckles, bearings, and lower ball joints to the machine shop... Have them put together and just straight swap them along with the upper ball joints without needing a wheel alignment... Am I correct in my assumption??

After ANY front end work. You will need your alignment checked. Possibly not adjusted but definitely checked.

 

[Porkchop]

Good luck on the rear Ball joint not so easy to press in or out. If it was me I'd replace the tri link it comes with a new ball joint and bushings on it.

 

[Joejeeper420]

I bought a moog replacement for the rear I think it should be fine.

 

[tommudd]

Only one that lasts regarding the rear tri link is to get one from Mopar

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

I bought a moog replacement for the rear I think it should be fine.

What Porkchop is saying is getting the old ball joint out and the new one in is the problem. The steel the tri-link is made from is very thin and typically deforms as soon as any pressure is put on it by a press. If you're fortunate to get the old joint out pressing the new one in will likely crush the steel beyond use.

Frankly it's much easier to just replace the entire unit. By the time you pull the old one out, press out the old bushings/ball joint and replace them with new, then reinstall the unit you could've had a new tri-link installed and be halfway through the next maintenance item on your list.

In my opinion a tri-link is one of those throwaway items - it ain't worth the trouble to try to rehab it with new components.

Bob

 

[Porkchop]

Bingo well said Bob. I do agree with Tommudd also.