Causing trouble again...

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KJ zGal

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So I haven't been on here in quite some time, but I figured I should start out my newest problem thread with a mention of the fact that ever since my KJ hit 150k, she's been causing or attracting trouble :disgust:

I moved to Cobleskill in September of 2011 and two weeks later someone drove into her as I was standing six feet away from her in the parking lot. Tow truck needed, but thankfully cost free.

In October, the pilot bearing exploded, broke THROUGH the casing of the transmission and managed to damage the clutch and the driveshaft in the process. New (used, 80k) transmission, new clutch, repaired driveshaft: $2524. Thank you mom and dad.

Since then, gauges have wigged out more than once (aka I am suddenly going 0 MPH at 0 RPM and every light on the dash is on), I can sometimes drive with the non-chipped key I made before I realized the factory key had a chip in it, trouble going up hills (helped with a new air filter), passenger window regulator went, had that fixed, three weeks later the driver's side regulator went (not yet fixed), and the AC compressor died (also not fixed). I DID, however, fix the blower motor finally -.-

Most recent: driving home from Utica this past Thursday, I suddenly notice a shudder in the engine, and immediately think it feels like a misfire, but don't see any gauges lit up on the dash. I figured I might be able to get her home, and then the check engine light turns on, not solid, but flashing, so I immediately pull over and call AAA to tow her home. Again. Pulled the code, P0305, misfire in cylinder five. Swapped out the spark plugs today (except for cylinder 6 because I had to go to work, finishing in the morning). 1-4 look fine, a little worn, but that was to be expected considering I hadn't changed them in a while. #5 (and the boot) comes out WAY too easily, covered in carbon and the center electrode slides up and down and hits the ground. Obviously an issue there. My question now, is whether the damaged spark plug was the cause of the misfire or the result of it. The end of the plug itself looks fine, other than the mobile electrode. There are no buildups or melting, etc.

Ideas? I guess I just don't want to kill it starting it up after changing these out =[

Also, rattling when the clutch is released at idle...throwout bearing? How important is this? It's fine if I push the clutch pedal down, the sound goes away. Clutch is new and transmission is has like 86k on it, but it did it with the old clutch and transmission as well. I've also noticed it's been slipping a lot more, so the shifting is not going as smoothly as it used to.
 
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Billwill

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So I haven't been on here in quite some time, but I figured I should start out my newest problem thread with a mention of the fact that ever since my KJ hit 150k, she's been causing or attracting trouble :disgust:

I moved to Cobleskill in September of 2011 and two weeks later someone drove into her as I was standing six feet away from her in the parking lot. Tow truck needed, but thankfully cost free.

In October, the pilot bearing exploded, broke THROUGH the casing of the transmission and managed to damage the clutch and the driveshaft in the process. New (used, 80k) transmission, new clutch, repaired driveshaft: $2524. Thank you mom and dad.

Since then, gauges have wigged out more than once (aka I am suddenly going 0 MPH at 0 RPM and every light on the dash is on), I can sometimes drive with the non-chipped key I made before I realized the factory key had a chip in it, trouble going up hills (helped with a new air filter), passenger window regulator went, had that fixed, three weeks later the driver's side regulator went (not yet fixed), and the AC compressor died (also not fixed). I DID, however, fix the blower motor finally -.-

Most recent: driving home from Utica this past Thursday, I suddenly notice a shudder in the engine, and immediately think it feels like a misfire, but don't see any gauges lit up on the dash. I figured I might be able to get her home, and then the check engine light turns on, not solid, but flashing, so I immediately pull over and call AAA to tow her home. Again. Pulled the code, P0305, misfire in cylinder five. Swapped out the spark plugs today (except for cylinder 6 because I had to go to work, finishing in the morning). 1-4 look fine, a little worn, but that was to be expected considering I hadn't changed them in a while. #5 (and the boot) comes out WAY too easily, covered in carbon and the center electrode slides up and down and hits the ground. Obviously an issue there. My question now, is whether the damaged spark plug was the cause of the misfire or the result of it. The end of the plug itself looks fine, other than the mobile electrode. There are no buildups or melting, etc.

Ideas? I guess I just don't want to kill it starting it up after changing these out =[

Also, rattling when the clutch is released at idle...throwout bearing? How important is this? It's fine if I push the clutch pedal down, the sound goes away. Clutch is new and transmission is has like 86k on it, but it did it with the old clutch and transmission as well. I've also noticed it's been slipping a lot more, so the shifting is not going as smoothly as it used to.

I hope when they replaced the clutch that they did not machine the flywheel flat...the flywheel is supposed to have a deliberate curve which matches the curve in the clutch plate.:freak3:
 

KJ zGal

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It used to rattle with the old clutch too though. It doesn't slip a LOT, just seems like it does so more often than it used to, but it could also be me failing at shifting lol
 

KJ zGal

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Update: Replacing the spark plugs seemed to do the trick, Jeep is driving fine and starting fine and sounds fine, but now tonight when I turned her off, and then turned the key partway on to have power enough to roll my windows up, the check engine light came back on and started flashing. No dings to tell me it was on, for one thing, and the Jeep started up fine again when I tried. Still sounds normal. Check engine light is NOT on while the vehicle is running. Normally it will be on for a moment when I turn the key on but then it goes off, so the flashing is what caught my attention. I turn the key on partway again, and sure enough, all the other lights go off except for that one and it's still flashing. I've never had a vehicle with the check engine light on only while the vehicle is off. What the heck >.<
 
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