BUYER BEWARE of the Rock Krawler kit

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GilaMonster

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I cross posted this from another thread just to help someone else from getting screwed by these a-holes.

I purchased the Rock Krawler Liberty 3.5” X-Factor System for my 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD from Discount Jeep Parts (also known as Off Road Motorsports). Please note that both Rock Krawler and Discount Jeep Parts web catalog of this item do not exclude the Jeep Liberty CRD.

Before Upon installation, I called Rock Krawler and talked to a talk to a technician regarding fitment of the kit and with general installation questions for a Jeep Liberty CRD. I was assured that the kit would fit just fine, and that no modifications were necessary. They had installe them on CRD model before, and the kit fits just fine.
I subsequently began the installation, and discovered that this kit did not fit properly on the front driver side suspension strut. The Rock Krawler clevis provided in the kit pinched the inner CV boot. I called that same day, during my installation, and talk to a technician at Rock Krawler who assured me that when the suspension is bearing the vehicle weight, with the wheels on the ground, the system will lower down enough that the boot will not be contactingin the Rock Krawler clevis brackets. Upon completion of the front and rear suspension kit, I lowered the vehicle and could see that the inner CV boot on the driver side of the vehicle was still pinched and bound up in the Rock Krawler clevis clamp.
I called Rock Krawler again, they explained that vehicle needed to be driven to load the suspension and then the boot would not be bound up in the Rock Krawler clevis joint. After a test drive, the boot was still bound in the Rock Krawler clevis joint.
Further, the CV boot was showing wear marks signs that this rubbing will contribute to premature failure due to the boot bound in the Rock Krawler clevis bracket.

Subsequent phone call with a different technician at Rock Krawler, and they explain that the Rock Krawler 3.5 X-Factor kit is not meant for installation on a CRD. The technician even went as far as to explain that one has never been installed at their shop, and that since the vehicle model was discontinued, they never intended to make a kit for that model. Upon asking what exactly was occurring, he wanted to know if the boot was just rubbing at full suspension droop (unloaded) because it was normal for the boot to rub their clevis at full droop. THAT IN ITSELF IS THEM ADMITTING THERE IS A DESIGN FLAW.

Rock Krawler and Discount Jeep Parts position on the matter is that since I installed the kit, none of them are responsible for it not fitting. They claim that their web pages do not SPECIFY a CRD fitment. I responded that their web information says it fits Jeep LIberty KJ models, and that they don't specify by engine. Anyway, this will not come as a shock to anyone I suppose, but they will not stand by their product.

So, it appears I'm out my money from the kit. I have modified the clevis bracket by cutting off the inner bent flanges that bind up the boot, and them box welding the outside of the driver side clevis brackets.

Additional problems with there lift kit include:
• Larger bump stops are required to keep the actual front struts from bottoming out at full compression. I spoke with the Rock Krawler technician and was assured that larger bump stops were not necessary, but they are incorrect. At full compression, there is no contact with the stock bump stop and the strut is taking all the force.
• The front suspension with the Rock Krawler kit design, like others, allows the upper ball joints to come in contact with the front strut springs, which has ruptured the upper ball joint boot, which will lead to premature failure of the upper ball joint.
• The rear shocks included with the Rock Krawler kit do not have the correct bushing sleeves for correct fitment to the upper shock mounts on the vehicle. These incorrect bushing sleeves lead to the rear shocks fitting too loose on the mounts and thumping very loud. The failure to include the correct bushing sleeves has lead to one failing by breaking apart. And they didn't even include the dust boots, a five dollar addition. (The remedy I have taken was to order and install Ranch RSX17004 shocks, since the have the correct bushings to mount to the vehicle rear shock mounts.)
• They did not include rear bump stops to keep the rear shocks from bottoming out during hard compression. This could lead to premature failure of a shock valve.

Here are pictures of the cv boot binding in their clevis bracket.
First one is from the rear of the driver side wheel with the suspension at full droop
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Second one is from the front of the drivers side wheel with the suspension loaded (on the ground with vehicle weight)
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I'm just letting you know my experiance with Rock Krawler. If anything, their business practices and customer service are lousy at best, and more on the lines of fraudulent. BUYER BEWARE.
 

mattjeep

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Damn that *****. Cause it looks like its a pretty well designed kit. What apealled to me was the fact it was a 3 inch kit. Especially since I want to put 265/75 or 275/70/16's on my KJ.
 

Marlon_JB2

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There is a SLIGHT difference in the way the front suspension is mounted and supported due to the engine. The front suspension cradle on diesel models is dropped about an inch from the factory. Is that what caused your trouble?
 

Eddo

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mattjeep said:
Damn that *****. Cause it looks like its a pretty well designed kit. What apealled to me was the fact it was a 3 inch kit. Especially since I want to put 265/75 or 275/70/16's on my KJ.

The Frankenlift will easily get you 3"
 

mattjeep

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Thats right, I forgot about the frankenlift, but the only bad thing about that one is that its expensive.
 

R.Rabbit

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Eddo said:
mattjeep said:
Damn that *****. Cause it looks like its a pretty well designed kit. What apealled to me was the fact it was a 3 inch kit. Especially since I want to put 265/75 or 275/70/16's on my KJ.

The Frankenlift will easily get you 3"
how so, it only says 2.5", is there something else you have to do?
 

Eddo

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R.Rabbit said:
Eddo said:
mattjeep said:
Damn that *****. Cause it looks like its a pretty well designed kit. What apealled to me was the fact it was a 3 inch kit. Especially since I want to put 265/75 or 275/70/16's on my KJ.

The Frankenlift will easily get you 3"
how so, it only says 2.5", is there something else you have to do?

For most people it actually gives about 3-3.25" I've installed 2 of them myself and both gave about 3-3.25" Plenty of other people have similar experience. They just say 2.5" to keep people from panicking about lifting a KJ too high.

You can get up to 3+" on Rusty's kit with bit of clevis lift and an extra spring isolator or two in the rear. I've done that to 3 other KJs.
 

R.Rabbit

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Eddo said:
R.Rabbit said:
Eddo said:
mattjeep said:
Damn that *****. Cause it looks like its a pretty well designed kit. What apealled to me was the fact it was a 3 inch kit. Especially since I want to put 265/75 or 275/70/16's on my KJ.

The Frankenlift will easily get you 3"
how so, it only says 2.5", is there something else you have to do?

For most people it actually gives about 3-3.25" I've installed 2 of them myself and both gave about 3-3.25" Plenty of other people have similar experience. They just say 2.5" to keep people from panicking about lifting a KJ too high.

You can get up to 3+" on Rusty's kit with bit of clevis lift and an extra spring isolator or two in the rear. I've done that to 3 other KJs.
is this because of the sag in the OG springs? or by adjusting the clevis? I understand in theory the clevis lift, but what is to stop the clevis from sliding back up next to the spring over time? Also when you say 'spring isolator' do you mean a 'spacer' between the coils?

highjacked #-o sorry [-o<
 

GilaMonster

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Marlon_JBT said:
There is a SLIGHT difference in the way the front suspension is mounted and supported due to the engine. The front suspension cradle on diesel models is dropped about an inch from the factory. Is that what caused your trouble?

Its not the cradle, it is the design of the clevis bracket. It has turned in edges that are used to strengthen it, but the also can catch your CV boot. One of the dead give-aways of the bad design was when they asked me if it was due to the suspension being at full droop (unloaded) because they were aware of that problem existing.
 

Eddo

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R.Rabbit said:
Eddo said:
R.Rabbit said:
Eddo said:
mattjeep said:
Damn that *****. Cause it looks like its a pretty well designed kit. What apealled to me was the fact it was a 3 inch kit. Especially since I want to put 265/75 or 275/70/16's on my KJ.

The Frankenlift will easily get you 3"
how so, it only says 2.5", is there something else you have to do?

For most people it actually gives about 3-3.25" I've installed 2 of them myself and both gave about 3-3.25" Plenty of other people have similar experience. They just say 2.5" to keep people from panicking about lifting a KJ too high.

You can get up to 3+" on Rusty's kit with bit of clevis lift and an extra spring isolator or two in the rear. I've done that to 3 other KJs.
is this because of the sag in the OG springs? or by adjusting the clevis? I understand in theory the clevis lift, but what is to stop the clevis from sliding back up next to the spring over time? Also when you say 'spring isolator' do you mean a 'spacer' between the coils?

highjacked #-o sorry [-o<

The Frankenlift sits taller than Rusty's lift. I've put several of each on. The Frankenlift uses a the HD Old Man Emu 1.5" spring an 1.5" spacer in the front. That is why most people get about 3"

Rusty's has a slightly taller spring but doesnt use any spacers. If you tighted the clamp down to the 100ft-lbs of torque that is specified it will not slip. Alot of people add some 2" conduit nuts in between the celvis bracket and the lip on the strut. You can get an extra set or two of rear spring isolators at the dealer. You just stack them up in the rear and they act as spacers. Here is a post on the Rusty's info
http://www.lostkjs.com/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=15164
 

kjpilot

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GilaMonster said:
Please note that both Rock Krawler and Discount Jeep Parts web catalog of this item do not exclude the Jeep Liberty CRD.

You must have gotten through to them. The Rock Krawler website now says:

Notes:

* Requires removal of the rear sway bar

** Not Valid for CRD Models
 

GilaMonster

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kjpilot said:
GilaMonster said:
Please note that both Rock Krawler and Discount Jeep Parts web catalog of this item do not exclude the Jeep Liberty CRD.

You must have gotten through to them. The Rock Krawler website now says:

Notes:

* Requires removal of the rear sway bar

** Not Valid for CRD Models

Yeah, I just discovered this over at L.O.S.T., but I'd still warn anyone that it does not fit a standard liberty kj either. Full droop and your boot is going to get munched up. Look at this thread for another testimoney:
http://www.lostkjs.com/forum/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=17143&start=15

I hope this helps save someone else their money and aggravation.
 

mattjeep

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From what I've read it seems like the Rock Krawler kit will give you contact issues with the cv boot, now since my KJ is a 2wd than I shouldn't have anything to worry about, right?
 
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