Butchered Lift

[jsapko]

I've been following this forum for a while, but never posted anything. It's time for me to come clean.

Last Oct. I decided I wanted to put a lift on my '05 Liberty. I told my wife I'd do it cheap, but it was time to replace the struts and tires anyways.

Long, long story short I originally went with the Rocky Road 2.5-3" budget lift (first of many mistakes). I then realized that my springs were shot too, so I thought why not get the OME HD springs all around (another rookie mistake). I got the rear springs in okay, but then discovered that there was no way I'd get the OME springs in along with the lift without replacing the UCA's, extending break lines, etc.

So then I bought the RR UCA's (another mistake) and replaced those and tried to install the OME 927's on the front with the new Rancho struts I had put on a couple months prior. After a few attempts at compressing the springs, there was no way I was gonna get the OME springs to compress enough to fit a standard strut.

I have a machinist friend who machined some strut arm extensions for me and we finally were able to get the new springs in along with the JBA Strut Spacer Plates and the .375" Clevis Spacers.

Once everything was installed and on the ground, it took me all of 30 seconds to realize I had about 1/2" of travel left in the struts. After I got it all aligned I noticed a knocking sound coming form the front passenger side wheel well. I re-torqued everything a few times to make sure something wasn't loose and it still make the noise.

The overall ride of the Jeep is nice...when it's loaded down. Last weekend I was pulling a trailer (about 2000 lbs) and it felt great. When I'm alone, I hear the knocking sound every now and then. I went with the HD springs all around because I want to replace the front bumper and have room to load down the back.

I know I need to replace the front struts, will the OME front struts work with the HD springs and JBA spacers? My gut feeling is the knocking sound is the strut bottoming out...but it's weird that it doesn't make that noise when the vehicle is loaded down (unless it's already bottomed out at that point).

If anyone has insight to what the noise could be, that would be sweet.

Some additional mods: I've installed the JBA Y Link Extension and the Front Sway Bar Quick Disconnects. All four wheels have Spyder Trax 1.25" wheel spacers and I'm running BFG All Terrain K/O's 265/70/17 (I've still got front rubbing issues despite my front bumper mods)

Thanks for any help.

 

[tommudd]

First you need to tear everything you have out and start over
Yes you can use the 927 front springs thats all i install when we do lifts here
Your problem is that RRO upper mount, if still using it, toss it , get a stock upper mount for both sides plus isolators.
The RRO UCAs while not great may work for you
But next how much lift would you like to end up with?
I assume 3.75 or so inches with that size tire , hopefully you have already regeared
You'll need new front shocks, use the 927 springs 1/4 inch top plate with the stock upper mounts and a 3/8 inch clevis for the front
rear use two extra upper isolators per side with the 948 springs

Noise is caused by the lift the way you have it currently, not to be a smart a** but you have created a suspension that is crap

 

[jsapko]

I forgot to mention that the RRO front spacers are long gone. I ditched those when I put the new springs/spacers on.

I've got the front set up just like you said: 927's, 1/4 top plate with stock upper mounts, 3/8" clevis and the RRO UCA's. I can't afford to ditch the RRO UCA's for JBA. What front struts should I use?

I haven't regeared. Was told that anything beyond 265's would need it.

 

[jsapko]

What are the isolators for? I've never heard of, or seen them used before. Sorry for a rookie question.

 

[tommudd]

I forgot to mention that the RRO front spacers are long gone. I ditched those when I put the new springs/spacers on.

I've got the front set up just like you said: 927's, 1/4 top plate with stock upper mounts, 3/8" clevis and the RRO UCA's. I can't afford to ditch the RRO UCA's for JBA. What front struts should I use?

I haven't regeared. Was told that anything beyond 265's would need it.

Use OME / Ironman or Bilstein front shocks all work well. Ironman are a bit longer but all are considered stock length shocks. No extensions on them are needed . The isolators are the rubber pieces above and below the springs .
You should be about 22.5 inches from middle of the wheel to bottom of the flare
That is if you didn't kill the springs trying to use them before.
Not sure who told you that about the tires but you're basically running a 32 inch tall tire so very advisable to regear. Motor and trabsmission is getting a workout by not doing so. with out regearing you should stay about a 30 inch tall tire.

 

[jsapko]

Last time I called JBA, Marlin said Ironman's were on back order or stuck at port in Long Beach. I was gonna go with those because he told me the same thing.

What is the recommended gear ratio for the tires I'm running? Thanks for your help.

 

[tommudd]

Last time I called JBA, Marlin said Ironman's were on back order or stuck at port in Long Beach. I was gonna go with those because he told me the same thing.

What is the recommended gear ratio for the tires I'm running? Thanks for your help.

4.10s is as low as you can go with the D30a

 

[jsapko]

That's what I thought. Is that both for the front and rear, or just the rear?

 

[CactusJacked]

That's what I thought. Is that both for the front and rear, or just the rear?

You can't run different gear ratios with a 4x4, unless you NEVER lock it into 4wd. Because different gears change wheel speed, the fronts and rears have to be matched.

 

[tommudd]

That's what I thought. Is that both for the front and rear, or just the rear?

4.10s are as low as you can go with the front D30a
rear 8.25 can go 4.88
One reason jeepinbyal created the steel front diff which accepts 4.56s and 4.88s
But yes both front and rear must match