boomerang replacement

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kj2002vzla

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hi guys...ive had the tommuds econo lift for 7 month now and the ride quality is awesome, the only thing i had to deal with is the boomerang, even with the Ylink extension i had to change ball joints 3 times (dont know the exact reason) so i came with a solution, since i live in Venezuela the JBA 4-link shipping is too expensive due the weight so i made something alike the 4-link. lets hear opinions about this

PS: tommuds lift flex so niceee!!!
 

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Snail Farmer

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I'd like to see how the front of those arms are attached.. did you use the factory location?

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tommudd

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Looks good ! Yes flex is really good.
Not sure why you would of had that many go bad, I don't use an extension on mine and have as much or more lift and no issues like that
But you have a fix for it now, I think I would have to have a little more support on the diff but then I like hard launches as well :shrug::happy175:

I'd love to have a pair of those links
 
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kj2002vzla

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I'd like to see how the front of those arms are attached.. did you use the factory location?

Sent from my HTC One using the power of Mary's purse



yes we used the factory bolt hole and weld the bolt cause it had a little movement and was causing a knocking noise, its really simple tho

heres a pic...
 

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kj2002vzla

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Looks good ! Yes flex is really good.
Not sure why you would of had that many go bad, I don't use an extension on mine and have as much or more lift and no issues like that
But you have a fix for it now, I think I would have to have a little more support on the diff but then I like hard launches as well :shrug::happy175:

I'd love to have a pair of those links


lol i think it will hold up very well, i also like hard launches..but i want to forget about that issue because i want to upgrade my lift but first i have to eliminate the noises.

im going to the US next december, i could get you a pair and i would ship the links from orlando, just in case tom lol

thanks for the comments guys really appreciate it.
 

Snail Farmer

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Man you've given me a hell of an inspiration. Time to put my machine shop to good use. Let's see what I can come up with... :superhack:
 

tommudd

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After relooking at these I see one issue . It appears there isn't anyway for them to flex that much, just what the bushings do. You need some type of "swivel" built into the bar to allow the diff to flex more easily. Now all you have is what flex there is in the bushings them selves
 

kj2002vzla

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After relooking at these I see one issue . It appears there isn't anyway for them to flex that much, just what the bushings do. You need some type of "swivel" built into the bar to allow the diff to flex more easily. Now all you have is what flex there is in the bushings them selves

you mean like a shock absober? i dont know if im explaining myself
 
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KJScott

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I think what Tom is saying is- while you have excellent up and down travel, the twisting motion is limited to the flex of the bushings. Some type of swivel in the rods would allow limitless twist. You did excellent work by the way.
 

tjkj2002

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After relooking at these I see one issue . It appears there isn't anyway for them to flex that much, just what the bushings do. You need some type of "swivel" built into the bar to allow the diff to flex more easily. Now all you have is what flex there is in the bushings them selves
X2.................




I'd use arms with superflex joints on each end,or at least Currie Johny Joints on each end.


| TeraFlex Suspensions


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kj2002vzla

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I think what Tom is saying is- while you have excellent up and down travel, the twisting motion is limited to the flex of the bushings. Some type of swivel in the rods would allow limitless twist. You did excellent work by the way.


Ohhh now i get it, so i need like an uniball kinda thing..i´ll measure the bushing and try to get s similar size uniball, i gotta wait til i travel to the us tho because thats a hard thing to find down here ( as everything including toilet papel lol)...thank you for the compliment Scott really appreciate it
 

tommudd

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Yes thats what I was leading up to, sorry didn't fully explain.
But that will help with articulation a lot , less stress on everything
Good start though
 

Snail Farmer

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Ok so here's what I'm thinking so far. Instead of welding a "frame" to the axle, I'm looking at machining a custom bracket out of T1 steel to mount to the factory link location. I was going to weld tabs onto the top to mount the arms, but I might just use this instead: Artec Industries Part BR1005 - Large 4-link Xmember Bracket

Then for the arms I haven't done any measuring as of yet because we're still having a blizzard outside, but I'm thinking something like this (thought not necessarily these exact ones): Rubicon Express RE3755 Control Arm 07 13 Wrangler JK | eBay

That only leaves the connection to the front to figure out. Right now I'm toying around with the idea of a piece of C channel ran between the two factory mount locations, with tabs welded into the channel to mount the new arms. I might make custom pieces like the OP did but I want something that's going to be bulletproof. So still not sure on the front mounting.

Anyone see any flaws in my thinking or have any suggestions?
 

kj2002vzla

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Yes thats what I was leading up to, sorry didn't fully explain.
But that will help with articulation a lot , less stress on everything
Good start though

haha you did explain it but since english isn´t my first language, i get messed up with some terminology one in a while lol sorry about that; thanks again tom

btw which one its better for me with the 4link the TJKJ uniball-bushing set or the Snailfarmer uniball, or if its the same thing
 

kj2002vzla

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Ok so here's what I'm thinking so far. Instead of welding a "frame" to the axle, I'm looking at machining a custom bracket out of T1 steel to mount to the factory link location. I was going to weld tabs onto the top to mount the arms, but I might just use this instead: Artec Industries Part BR1005 - Large 4-link Xmember Bracket

Then for the arms I haven't done any measuring as of yet because we're still having a blizzard outside, but I'm thinking something like this (thought not necessarily these exact ones): Rubicon Express RE3755 Control Arm 07 13 Wrangler JK | eBay

That only leaves the connection to the front to figure out. Right now I'm toying around with the idea of a piece of C channel ran between the two factory mount locations, with tabs welded into the channel to mount the new arms. I might make custom pieces like the OP did but I want something that's going to be bulletproof. So still not sure on the front mounting.

Anyone see any flaws in my thinking or have any suggestions?


its looks really nice man...the arms are almost the same length of the boomerang from the ball joint to the bushing, u gotta measure it but its really tuff with that kinda weather ( i just came back from NJ and i was really impressed with the blizzard) and it´s worst now i think, anyway here´s a pic of the mounts at frame
 

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TheBlueKJ

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its looks really nice man...the arms are almost the same length of the boomerang from the ball joint to the bushing, u gotta measure it but its really tuff with that kinda weather ( i just came back from NJ and i was really impressed with the blizzard) and it´s worst now i think, anyway here´s a pic of the mounts at frame

Kj it actually isn't as bad now as it was when that storm hit. And your going to want to use the johnny joint that Troy showed you which will give you the amount of movement to not have any unneeded stress anywhere.
 

TheBlueKJ

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Ok so here's what I'm thinking so far. Instead of welding a "frame" to the axle, I'm looking at machining a custom bracket out of T1 steel to mount to the factory link location. I was going to weld tabs onto the top to mount the arms, but I might just use this instead: Artec Industries Part BR1005 - Large 4-link Xmember Bracket

Then for the arms I haven't done any measuring as of yet because we're still having a blizzard outside, but I'm thinking something like this (thought not necessarily these exact ones): Rubicon Express RE3755 Control Arm 07 13 Wrangler JK | eBay

That only leaves the connection to the front to figure out. Right now I'm toying around with the idea of a piece of C channel ran between the two factory mount locations, with tabs welded into the channel to mount the new arms. I might make custom pieces like the OP did but I want something that's going to be bulletproof. So still not sure on the front mounting.

Anyone see any flaws in my thinking or have any suggestions?

With those RE style arms you'll still be running into the same thing that Kj is with not having enough flex and freedom of movement (pretty sure you would, might be wrong on that one) and I think that mount is for a lower setup or at least that's what the description hinted at.
 
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