Backyard alignment

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ShafferNY

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I've read a ton of stuff on installing lifts, but I haven't seen an tips, tricks, or suggestion on how to get your KJ back into alignment until you can get it to shop.

I'm interested in this because the nearest place I can get an alignment done is at least 45 minutes away.

I thought about jacking my KJ up and resting the two front lower control arms on some jack stands to take measurements before any disassembly of the stock configuration.

Then when I get the lift installed, I could put it back on some jack stands or something and start tweaking it until I get close.

Any suggestions?
 

Ry' N Jen

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Although I have not done this to my KJ yet, I have on a few of my hobby cars.
I just count the number of threads showing from the end of the tie rod end to the end of the rack and pinion steering arm and write it down. Then with a digital or dial vernier caliper, measure the same area as well. Then once I've removed and replaced what ever it is that needed fixing, I just set the aforementioned to the value recorded earlier and at my first convenient opportunity I take the car in for an alignment.
On one of my Mini's I was off by only 1 degree!
I have since bought some real wheel alignment equipment so that I can do pretty much everything myself.
Oh... My Old man uses a 10 foot length of string and a protractor!
Don't laugh, he's very accurate. Mind you, he was also a Journeyman tool and die maker and Aero-space machinist for 60 years.
 

kj924

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The only thing that should change is the toe in/out when you do a lift. Mind you, if your ball joints are worn, then that will make the alignment specs farther out. I would just go to the alignment shop and get it done right.

Just my 2 cents.:D
 

tjkj2002

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All the front end measurements will be off when lifting the front of a KJ and not just the toe since it is IFS,that includes caster,camber,and toe.You do not need to mess with the outer tie rod ends when installing the lift but the toe will still be off.Caster and camber is set through the 2 LCA cam bolts and you will never be able to eyeball those in.Just drive it to the alignment shop afterwards as is but do it slowly since you will be riding on the outside edges of the front tires.
 

tjkj2002

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Hmm....All my alignment consisted of was a simple toe adjustment, the camber was dead on. (dunno)
Then you were out of alignment to begin with.Every single KJ I have lifted(about 20) needed all 3 adjustments made after the lift,then again about 50% will never see the correct caster #'s but caster is not that important unless you own a corvette since it is more for high speed stability and does not effect tire wear like camber and toe.
 

Powerslave

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Camber is one of the most important alignments when lifting or lowering. When you go up, the tires pull IN, and ride the outer edge. When lowered, they push out and ride the inside edge. Had to do this when I owned a tracker, just a RWD vehicle, but the front end needed camber adjust when lifted.
 

ShafferNY

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I'm thinking I can get toe adjustment pretty close using a tape measure. I think I can also get the camber looking decent using a level on the tire and adjusting the forward cam bolt on the lower A arm.

Will the caster adjustment be drastically changed?

I should be able to get it into an alignment shop within a week. I just want to get things close so I can drive it there.

The nearest shop is about 30-40miles away.
 

cmohr

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With mine... Just to get going, I found if I set the front lower control adjuster so as the adjustment was all the way "IN" and the rear adjuster so it was all the way "OUT", then I set the toein/out with string, I got it very close. Close enough the drive to the wheel alaignment place, and they said I was only 1mm off on the left hand side when they did the castor. ( begineers luck maybe)


BUT.... That was MY KJ.. can't speak for yours. but it was starting point told to me by bush mechanics to get things going.
 

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