Aux driving lights (High beam wire location?)

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fishyx

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I'm installing a set of PIAA five inchers on the bumper of a 2002. Instead of a separate switch I just want them to come on with the high beams. Anyone know where I can tap into the high beam trigger wire and what color it is on a 2002 Sport??? Of course i'll just be triggering a separate relay for the PIAAs with the high beam wire.
 
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fishyx

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Thanks Uss! Those diagrams are tough for me to figure out but I think I have it. Think I would be fine tapping into the drivers side high beam wire right at the bulb socket? That way I wouldn't have to run anything through the firewall.
 

uss2defiant

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you could do that or put another wire in series with the other 2 output wires that the high beam relays connect to the battery when energized.
Depending on the specification of the current relay, it may or may not be suitable for the addition load from the lights you want to install.

The letters in the middle of wires in the wiring diagrams are the colors of the wires. Eg. RD/OR means red and orange.
 

Billwill

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Thanks Uss! Those diagrams are tough for me to figure out but I think I have it. Think I would be fine tapping into the drivers side high beam wire right at the bulb socket? That way I wouldn't have to run anything through the firewall.


Yep that would work...have that wire energize a seperate relay and run +12 volts from the battery...through an inline fuse...to your new lights.

Probably a Light Green wire with a Brown stripe is the wire you need to tap off....otherwise put a meter on the wires going to the bulb and see which one has +12 volts on it when High beam is on.

In my country it is mandatory to have a seperate switch for any additional lights:shrug:
 

fishyx

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One last question: Can I put a switch inline with the high beam trigger wire to the new relay? That way I could also run the high beams without the PIAAs turning on?
 

John3seventeen

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Yes you can run the trigger wire to the switch then the relay. Just pic a switch that has minimal draw on the circuit.
 

uss2defiant

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i think it's pg 985 on the pdf 8wa-50-2.
The control line to the high beam relay from the multifunction switch to the junction block is LG/WT wire.

There's wiring to the junction block with L309 connector, connector is shown on pg 1120.
you can probably splice that LG/WT wire going to the junction block and wire in another relay in series.
 

Billwill

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i think it's pg 985 on the pdf 8wa-50-2.
The control line to the high beam relay from the multifunction switch to the junction block is LG/WT wire.

There's wiring to the junction block with L309 connector, connector is shown on pg 1120.
you can probably splice that LG/WT wire going to the junction block and wire in another relay in series.


Yeah the Junction Block...internal fuse panel....has few spare relay slots on its reverse side. Easy to fit a relay and fuse inside spare slots...would then have to run the wires through the firewall though.

I would rather try use the box under the hood...Power Distribution Center...to mount relays and fuses then the relay coil ground can be grounded inside the cabin by the new ON/Off switch...only one thin wire has to go through the Firewall.:shrug:
 

M38 Bob

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One last question: Can I put a switch inline with the high beam trigger wire to the new relay? That way I could also run the high beams without the PIAAs turning on?

Yes you can run the trigger wire to the switch then the relay. Just pic a switch that has minimal draw on the circuit.

If you're gonna bother with a switch, why feed it off hi beams at all?

Bob
 

Ohio-white-kj

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Yeah the Junction Block...internal fuse panel....has few spare relay slots on its reverse side. Easy to fit a relay and fuse inside spare slots...would then have to run the wires through the firewall though.

I would rather try use the box under the hood...Power Distribution Center...to mount relays and fuses then the relay coil ground can be grounded inside the cabin by the new ON/Off switch...only one thin wire has to go through the Firewall.:shrug:

You could catch the high beam under the dash, use a double pole switch if you wanted to run the aux. lights separately, then only need one thin (22 ga or smaller) hot wire to fire the relay. Also works easier if using an illuminated switch or pilot light.

Not a fan of switched grounds :)
 

M38 Bob

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Boy! I left myself wide open (another bad choice of words) for that one didn't I.:emotions34:

Bob
 

fishyx

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I ended up grabbing the high beam wire at the drivers side headlight bulb harness and didn't even bother installing a switch in the cab. Tough part was tightening the vertical adjusting bolts once I had them aimed properly. Not a lot of room cuz the lights end up hugging the grill pretty tight.
 

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