Aluminum wheels finish maintenance and repair

[Jbergun]

Yea then pay for mounting/balancing and installation for those internet wheels.. No need to go and get butt hurt over a suggestion. icon996.gif Let me add as well, did I ever say it's a necessary thing? Do you want a permanent solution to your problem? Something relatively low maintenance? Ok, then powder coat is an option! And I do have some connections in the world of body work, thanks! Good friends of mine own a shop called Woods Collision, they build one off long travel sand rails and this guy (C&L Hot Rod Coatings to be exact) hooks us up on our powder coating needs. :gr_grin: No offense was meant to be given, so take it how ya want it!

no offense was taken just making a point.

Thank you.

:happy175:

 

[Signaleer]

Well, for me - I think I'll put some new tires on it and call it a day.

I really probably need new springs and shocks at 181K (2002 KJ) but it still does fine for me. Just towed a 26 foot sailboat like 650 miles. Towed a 5X8 trailer from California to Alabama.

Damn thing is like a tank!

 

[Jbergun]

Well, for me - I think I'll put some new tires on it and call it a day.

I really probably need new springs and shocks at 181K (2002 KJ) but it still does fine for me. Just towed a 26 foot sailboat like 650 miles. Towed a 5X8 trailer from California to Alabama.

Damn thing is like a tank!

My rims had the same problem i stripped and painted them. With the money i saved i got a new set of tires. Well worth it. I have no problem in snow or rain.

 

[tommudd]

Well, for me - I think I'll put some new tires on it and call it a day.

I really probably need new springs and shocks at 181K (2002 KJ) but it still does fine for me. Just towed a 26 foot sailboat like 650 miles. Towed a 5X8 trailer from California to Alabama.

Damn thing is like a tank!

Proably need new springs and shocks:icon_lol:
Mine was ready at 20,000 miles, had one here at 75,000 and it was already over 1.5 inches lower than new so yes way past due

 

[u2slow]

Corrosion.....need to be sanded and varnished (clear coat) again. Approx. 300$ for a good job.

Huh. Took me 3 or 4 rattle cans and some light sanding. Tires didn't even need to come off the wheels. :gr_grin:

 

[Jbergun]

Huh. Took me 3 or 4 rattle cans and some light sanding. Tires didn't even need to come off the wheels. :gr_grin:

Total cost practically nothing compared to $300.

 

[Signaleer]

Ok, so if I do the stripper idea - do I then just re clear coat or paint?

Any examples out there?

Ed

 

[Ohio-white-kj]

I did all 5 2 years ago using the Duracoat wheel paint, clear coat and proper etching primer, under 75$ for supplies.

I started by sandblasting the 1st one or 2, then realized that what looked like degradation of the aluminum was just in the clear and the metal was fine.

I then sanded off the bad shit on the rest, feather edged the edges of the clear, 2 coats of primer, sanded and 2 coats of paint and clear.

 

[u2slow]

Ok, so if I do the stripper idea - do I then just re clear coat or paint?

Any examples out there?

Ed

After light sanding of rough spots & dings... two coats dark graphite wheel paint; 3 coats clear. Little bit of masking tape and a curved piece of cardboard to minimize overspray.

Pic here... http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f203/lift-stock-wheels-58323/#post662136

 

[Jbergun]

The stripper will totally remove the clear. Your rims would look pretty rough just putting clear over this. So if you like the aluminum finish get aluminum paint. I did mine with regular flat black spray paint. No clear coat they have held up good. light sanding will cover up the corroded spots of clear. Over time those spots will cause the paint to crackle. That is why i would use stripper and a putty knife to get all the old corroded clear coat off. Then start fresh with the paint of your liking.