Add conduit nuts to fork

[mindbomb]

How hard is it to just add 1-2 conduit nuts between the front strut and the fork? Do I need to take the whole shock mount apart or no need? Whats the process?
(asking because I am adding the rear y link extension in the rear)

Also - will adding 2-3 (vs 1 now) conduit nuts put more strain on the stock UBJ?
Will need new alignment?

Thanks

 

[rjkj2005]

No need for the nuts. They are there for just a measurement. I just used the end of my 1/2 inch rachet handle between the shock and clevis to hold the gap apart. then tighten down the clevis bolt. Remove ratchet. This keeps you from separating the ball joint so you can remove to clevis

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[rjkj2005]

See no nuts needed.

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[mindbomb]

Oh you say no need to insert nuts at all?!
How does it hold up over time/off roading/going over bumps? won't the fork just push back up into the strut?

 

[jeeptorino68]

Oh you say no need to insert nuts at all?!
How does it hold up over time/off roading/going over bumps? won't the fork just push back up into the strut?

It's fine if torqued properly

 

[kejobe]

No need for the nuts. They are there for just a measurement. I just used the end of my 1/2 inch rachet handle between the shock and clevis to hold the gap apart. then tighten down the clevis bolt. Remove ratchet. This keeps you from separating the ball joint so you can remove to clevis

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It's fine if torqued properly

^^^This. I'm spaced 3/8" and used an allen wrench to set the gap. Then tightened. They haven't moved.

 

[rjkj2005]

No they don't move once torqued down. 100 ft pounds is the torque for both the upper and lower clevis bolts .

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[rjkj2005]

People who have used the conduit nuts that live in the snow belt. Find that they disappear after a couple of winters from rust.

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[krisP]

if the shock decides to slip in the clevis they wouldnt stand a chance anyway

 

[tommudd]

People who have used the conduit nuts that live in the snow belt. Find that they disappear after a couple of winters from rust.

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Really? Some that I lifted 5-6-7 years ago still are running the conduit nuts, they don't rust

 

[uss2defiant]

I would think the conduit nuts would be similarly galvanized as well.

 

[ltd02]

I would think the conduit nuts would be similarly galvanized as well.

The ones I bought were. They're still on the KJ shelf in the garage right next to the two JBA top plates. One of these days... :emotions34:

 

[tommudd]

I would think the conduit nuts would be similarly galvanized as well.

They are they don't rust
Sounds like Fakebook BS

 

[Jim McClain]

If one were to use a section of PVC pipe that was cut on one side so it could be spread apart to fit over the clevis and used as a spacer, what size PVC pipe would be needed. Inside diameter or out? I would cut a half-inch or so chunk out of the side of the pipe so I could open it up enough to slip over the clevis without breaking the pipe.

I understand that others have said conduit nuts (and PVC pipe spacers) aren't necessary, but the PVC would make it easier to get real accurate with the gap size.

This might be something I would do to get my lift level from side-to-side (it's off by about a quarter-inch), as well as get just a bit more front lift so the rake isn't as steep. It may also help reduce or eliminate the tires rubbing when one is stuffing while the wheel is turned.

 

[tommudd]

If one were to use a section of PVC pipe that was cut on one side so it could be spread apart to fit over the clevis and used as a spacer, what size PVC pipe would be needed. Inside diameter or out? I would cut a half-inch or so chunk out of the side of the pipe so I could open it up enough to slip over the clevis without breaking the pipe.

I understand that others have said conduit nuts (and PVC pipe spacers) aren't necessary, but the PVC would make it easier to get real accurate with the gap size.

This might be something I would do to get my lift level from side-to-side (it's off by about a quarter-inch), as well as get just a bit more front lift so the rake isn't as steep. It may also help reduce or eliminate the tires rubbing when one is stuffing while the wheel is turned.

Whats your height now on each side in front ?
2 inch conduit nuts is what we use
Only way I see PVC pipe in working would be cut in half and then fasten it ( glue , wire tie, etc ) back together

 

[Jim McClain]

Whats your height now on each side in front ?
2 inch conduit nuts is what we use
Only way I see PVC pipe in working would be cut in half and then fasten it ( glue , wire tie, etc ) back together

I can't go outside and measure it right now, I don't feel good. But the last time I measured it was just under 3" in front and one side was a little less than the other side. If I cut a short section out of the pipe diameter to make it look like a C, then I should be able to spread it open wider to get it to clamp around the clevis. No need to glue or wire it, I wouldn't think.

So, the question remains, is it 2" inside diameter - is that how conduit nuts are measured? I s'pose even with a 2" o/s diameter PVC pipe, that would still work as a clevis gauge. If, like you say, it's not necessary to have a conduit nut or anything there, as long as the clevis nut is torqued down at 100#, the C-shaped PVC could fall off or break at some later date and it wouldn't matter. It's just being used as a gauge. Right?

 

[mindbomb]

Interesting idea Jim, OTOH there shouldn't be a problem to just measure the gap and tighten the clevis fork nut down on both sides... I just didn't know the conduits didn't serve as a perch.

 

[Jim McClain]

Interesting idea Jim, OTOH there shouldn't be a problem to just measure the gap and tighten the clevis fork nut down on both sides... I just didn't know the conduits didn't serve as a perch.

It's not really my idea, just a modification of one the JBA has been offering for a long time. Clevis Spacer for Front Struts are sold in several different sizes and are meant to be added before the strut fork is bolted on. I am merely trying to suggest these (or PVC pipe you buy at a hardware store and cut yourself) can be modified by taking a section out that would allow you to install them without completely removing the strut fork. Loosen, jack apart, snap in the spacer, tighten. I found these photos that helps illustrate how to do it.

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This would allow me to fine tune the thickness of the spacer for each side.

 

[krisP]

id suggest removing the UCA if done that way ^
i didnt have the JBA UCA's installed at the time but luckily had them on hand and the stock uca ball joint popped right out....made the decision to install the JBA's an easy one.