A few questions about 927/948 OME setup

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richar43

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In a few weeks I will be ordering the following from JeepinByAl,
927 & 948 ome coil springs, along with bilstein shocks and struts and teraflex bump stops.

Here is my general question... I want to get it level if possible, and I allready have in the rear 2 addtl. ISO pads, and boiler 3/8 front plates. with the new setup in the rear, do I keep the 2 ISO pads and install the springs ect, and on the front I will keep the 3/8 plate, plus will do a 3/8 clevis lift as well. what items, if any do I need to keep or remove. I want to be able to install it all, and be done, and not take it apart to remove something. All feedback is appreciated.
Thank you everyone.
 
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tommudd

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If you do a 3/8 clevis you'll be a little higher in the front while keeping the "top plates" and two rear upper isolators
 

richar43

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So, Tommudd, to get it level I need to keep the 2 iso in the rear, and use the strut plate in the front, and I don't need to do the clevis lift then, I want it as level as possible. and thanks for answering
 

Uncle Krusty

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I have only OME springs, no spacers, or additional Iso's. I also do not have any additional items (whinch, Bimber, etc...) on the front, and only an added reciever hitch in the rear.

I used the "Medium" 926 springs in the front and the "Medium" 948 in the rear (Despite what everyone says, there are no HD rears - Check ARBs site).

After about 9 months, the springs have settled in, and I have a slight "nose down" stance to the Jeep, much like it had in it's stock trim. I too look to level it soon, but didn't want to do it until the springs settled in, and I could see how much I would need.

All anyone can do here is recomend what works for them. Much of it depends on what kind of use YOUR Liberty sees. If your dragging around an ARB bumper/Winch combo, You'll NEED the HD front springs and maybe a spacer or two. If your hauling around the kids in the back, along with half your garage in tools/parts in the rear, you may need an extra spacer in the rear. And of course if you regularly tow, it's another concern all together.

With Just my wife and I, and no more that a full trip to the grocery store in the back at most, I've found I would like just a bit more than the springs only in the front. As far as ride, I'm Quite happy with the "Mediums" up front, so just a spacer (like Boiler's top plate) may be all I need.
 

tommudd

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For Uncle Krusty
Could just do a 3/8 inch clevis lift for basically free, ( will give you the same as a top plate)
don't think many ever said the 948s were heavy duty, been listed in the books as mediums for years now
I also follow up on the ones I've done here so sort of know what works and how much they settle on "average" All of the ones I've done are pretty much in the same category as far as DD etc
 

Uncle Krusty

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Hey Tom, don't mean to thread jack here...

I've looked at bumping the clevis down with a conduit nut or two, even bought some.... Just haven't had a chance to tear it down and do it. I know the nuts don't acttually suport any of the weight, as the clamp is suposed to keep things in place, but not just keen on the idea. I know that thin little ridge on the shock doesn't support much, but it does keep it from slideing through,. Trouble is, I may need to do both, and having the plates in first, still gives me room for the clevis if needed.

BTW, I'm always interested in your replies as they are very insightful and always aimed to help those in need. Thanks

As for the "HD" rears, It wasn't a remark aimed at anyone in general - especially you! I've seen several people refer to them that way over the years. I geuss if they are the stiffest you can go, they would be considered HD. Oh well.

BTW Tom, Did you used to fequent a site called "Binder Bulletin?" Your handle sounds familiar... Just wondering

"We now return you to your previous topic...."
 
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tommudd

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Just kind of restating for newbies reading about the rear springs. I know it gets confusing for some for some reason. :shrug:I think its just a general statement that when people say 927s heavy Duty fronts that most think that the rears are then HDs as well
Either way will work for ya in the front or both but then you're pushing it then. Just don't get too wild and too high ( like someone here:pp::disgust:) and have to replace a CV:happy175:
 

richar43

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Thanks guys for your input, from what i can gather on the 927/948 coil springs, is I will need to do the following...
Rear ( keep both ISO pads for a total of 3 per side)
Front ( boiler strut shim 3/8) and no clevis lift at this time, and it should be pretty close if not level....am I correct on this. I'm just trying to get all my info in a row, and purchase everything at once, before i start it. Thanks again
 

tommudd

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That should be pretty good, but as always each settles a little different and the way you use it determines how fast it settles in. You may go to the hardware and get 50 bags of mulch and then the rear will settle in faster than the front . Guess what I'm trying to say is do it and get an alignment and then let it go for a while to see how it does. ALSO Most likely the left front will be slightly lower than the right front after a while. Its normal it seems.
 

eradicator006

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Just kind of restating for newbies reading about the rear springs. I know it gets confusing for some for some reason. :shrug:I think its just a general statement that when people say 927s heavy Duty fronts that most think that the rears are then HDs as well
Either way will work for ya in the front or both but then you're pushing it then. Just don't get too wild and too high ( like someone here:pp::disgust:) and have to replace a CV:happy175:

How come on http://www.rocky-road.com/kjome.html it says there are HD rear springs? I'm not trying to argue with you. I'm just pointing this site out because this is why I thought there were HD rear springs.
 

tommudd

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If you read they (RRO) use their own brand of rear springs
they only use front OME springs
plus RRO is well not so good
 
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