4WD noises and not engaging 03 liberty

[Perps]

Hello all, first time poster looking for some help troubleshooting my 4WD issue. I have an 03 Liberty Renegade with the Command Trac transfer case.

3 weeks ago I took a long drive home (about 10hrs) on a mix of ice, snow and dry roads with my "part time" engage a lot of the way going 40ish mph. I started to hear a little fast ticking sound (sped up and down with speed/rotation) that gradually turned into a louder knocking sound. At first I thought it was the brake routers but it was definitely coming from the 4WD (I'm assuming the transfer case).

Shifting in/out of "part time" became more troublesome and the noise got louder as time went on. Yesterday it was engaged and then a loud pop and the 4WD stopped getting power to the front wheel and is definitely not engaged anymore even though the shifter is in the correct position and indicator light is on. 4WL no longer works either. When I shift out of any 4WD position the clicking/knocking sound continues until I come to a complete stop and then goes away. The sound returns if I try to shift/re-engage the 4WD but the power doesn't go to the front at all.

I don't know enough about 4WD systems or the transfer case to guess what happened. Any advise? It was suggested I change the gear fluid but I'm assuming the damage is beyond a simple fluid change.

 

[M38 Bob]

Changing fluid would be exact meaning of the old line about "closing the barn door after the horses are already out".

Best I can tell from your description it could very well be a stripped CV joint on one of the front axles instead of the transfer case at all.

Bob

 

[LibertyTC]

Welcome to the forums! That loud "pop" does not sound good at all!
Inspection time, looking for any cracks in transfer case, shafts, Do you have any leaks?
I am sure other members will expand on this.
The Command Trac is meant for slippery surfaces only, not dry surfaces, especially turning, and transitioning between slippery & dry take it easy & go back to 2WD when back on dry.
May I refer you to your owner's manual re the proper use of Command Trac systems, also this link has some good information: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/how-do-i-test-front-wheel-drive-59209/
With an automatic transmission, you must shift the transmission into neutral before going in & out of 4LOW I am in the habit of doing this regardless of 4 hi part time or 4 low.

 

[CactusJacked]

Check your front driveshaft, particularly at the transfer case end. The cv joint could have taken a crap, as they can do.

 

[Perps]

Thanks for the responses!

Tried to run an errand today in 2wd and the noises/vibrations are now happening in 2wd as well. Went to the mechanic to pick his brain and he took it for a test drive and thinks it's possibly a "u joint" in the front. I take it in monday for a $100 diagnostics and quote.

Any other thoughts? Thanks all for chiming in.

 

[CactusJacked]

CV joints only in the front, no u-joints. There are no lockout hubs like old school, so the front axles/driveshaft are spinning all the time, even with case in 2wd.

 

[tommudd]

Pull the front driveshaft out and then try it
Find another shop to take it to if he thinks its a ujoint in the front
If it is the rear CV on the front driveshaft then very easy and cheap repair

For less than 100 it can be reapaired if its the rear CV

 

[Perps]

Attached photo is the return drive shaft from the transfer case in the middle of the jeep.

I took off the front left tire to spin the rotor and replicated the noises with this rotation. The noise is clearly coming from this drive shaft in the picture on the transfer case side.

Edit: Noise seems to be coming from the back end of the drive shaft in the picture. Lots of play in it, up/down/back & fourth.

 

[uss2defiant]

cant tell but looks like the boot in the rear CV of the front driveshaft is kaput. Looks like some grease around the the cross member from the CV.

 

[teeje]

Yeah that drive shaft should not have play in it at all. I would drop it. Only way to see what the issue is. Could be the u joint


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[Perps]

I'm unclear, will the truck drive with that shaft removed?

 

[belvedere]

You can remove the front driveshaft, and the rear wheels will still be driven (rear wheel drive).

 

[Perps]

Ok I'll try pulling it tomorrow and drive it around. I also found some good tutorials about rebuilding the CV so if it seems bad I'm going to take care of that too.

If it is the CV on the back of the front drive shaft, can I expect the 4wd to work once rebuilt (assuming I do it correctly)?

 

[tommudd]

Ok I'll try pulling it tomorrow and drive it around. I also found some good tutorials about rebuilding the CV so if it seems bad I'm going to take care of that too.

If it is the CV on the back of the front drive shaft, can I expect the 4wd to work once rebuilt (assuming I do it correctly)?

It should although depends on if it has been ran on roads in 4WD
Only should be used in very slipperly conditions or snow covered.
Good tires go farther than 4WD almost. I hardly ever use 4WD on mine


www.driveshaftparts.com
part number ME807
should be 45 bucks or so

 

[M38 Bob]

For CHRISTS SAKE get some jack stands before getting under it with that Mickey Mouse jack!!!!

Bob


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[uss2defiant]

Depending on your bodysize, you don't need to jack the jeep out to get the front driveshaft out. It'll help but not necessary.

It's just tricky to get the shaft out.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

cant tell but looks like the boot in the rear CV of the front driveshaft is kaput. Looks like some grease around the the cross member from the CV.

Yep, based on that pic the rear CV joint is shot. Grease everywhere and going by the description of the noise coming from it when the front wheels are turned the joint is barely hanging on. If the driveshaft comes apart from that CV you'll have some REALLY 'interesting' noises. :emotions34:

Yeah that drive shaft should not have play in it at all. I would drop it. Only way to see what the issue is. Could be the u joint

Only U-joints on the KJ are those are the drive shaft to the rear axle. The entire front drivetrain uses CV joints - two on the drive shaft from the transfer case to the front diff, and two each going to each front wheel (two on each axle.)

Bob

 

[CactusJacked]

For CHRISTS SAKE get some jack stands before getting under it with that Mickey Mouse jack!!!!
Bob

That's one of the reasons why I like it being lifted. When I replaced my clutch, I dropped the trans without jacking up the Jeep at all. Oil & fluid changes, same. :gr_grin:

 

[tommudd]

That's one of the reasons why I like it being lifted. When I replaced my clutch, I dropped the trans without jacking up the Jeep at all. Oil & fluid changes, same. :gr_grin:

Same with mine, can roll under for any fluid changes there is, front or rear driveshaft R&R, install rear tri-link etc without jacking it up at all :icon_lol:

 

[teeje]

Yep, based on that pic the rear CV joint is shot. Grease everywhere and going by the description of the noise coming from it when the front wheels are turned the joint is barely hanging on. If the driveshaft comes apart from that CV you'll have some REALLY 'interesting' noises. :emotions34:







Only U-joints on the KJ are those are the drive shaft to the rear axle. The entire front drivetrain uses CV joints - two on the drive shaft from the transfer case to the front diff, and two each going to each front wheel (two on each axle.)



Bob

I thought the picture was pointing to the rear axle. My bad.


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