04 Liberty Trans Removal and rear main seal replace

[retrota79]

hello everyone, new to the forum here.
I searched for a thread like this but could not find any info.
I have a rear main seal leak on my 3.7 4x4 liberty and i gotta fix it, anybody done this recently that has any tips on making it easier? any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

hello everyone, new to the forum here.
I searched for a thread like this but could not find any info.
I have a rear main seal leak on my 3.7 4x4 liberty and i gotta fix it, anybody done this recently that has any tips on making it easier? any input would be greatly appreciated.

First, Welcome!

Second... Are you sure it's the rear seal? These engines are more prone to have issues with the front seal. And the way it drips it makes it look like the leak is in the rear. Could also be a valve cover gasket; you getting any white puffs of smoke or burning smell in the cabin?

Bob

 

[CalcityRenegade]

How bad of a leak? Nothing a stop leak wouldn't fix?

 

[retrota79]

hey guys, thanks for the response.
i'm pretty sure it is the rear main seal. I took of the inspection cover/brace and washed it all down with brake clean. Than started it and let it idle for a long while and shut it down, eventually i could see it slowly seep down the back of the block and after sitting for a while i found a drip forming on the back of the crank. As far as Stop Leak, i think its past that point, it's leaving drops on my garage floor which i cant stand!

This is what i'm kind of thinking needs to be done:
-Disconnect battery
-mark and remove both front and rear drive shafts
-remove exhaust y pipe
-remove torque converter bolts
-remove trans bolts and trans (disconnect trans cooler lines)
-remove flywheel
- and finally remove and replace rear main seal
- to install reverse the procedure.

anyone done one of these? or any key factors i am forgetting?

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

That's basically it. There's a good writeup in the FSM - several posts on here on where to download one from.

Keep us posted :waytogo:

Bob

 

[retrota79]

hey guy's not to much happening with this so far. I have been searching everywhere on the world wide web to find any info to make this easier and have not came up with much. The thing that is really holding me back is finding the right seal installer, would love to get a oem installer off ebay but cannot find anything anywhere. Debating on trying to find a universal one if i have to. Ill try to post stuff as things move along, im hoping to take some pictures as i actually do the job and make a write up about it so it can hopefully help someone else as well.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Try this store on eBay. He doesn't have the exact tool listed but maybe if you call him?

Bob

 

[retrota79]

Hi guys, kind of resurrecting this old thread, anyway i finally made it a priority and replaced the rear main seal on my jeep (2004 liberty 3.7/auto). With a friend we got it done in a little over 3 hours. ill kind of give you a break down incase of someone else wondering what is all involved in doing the job. ill try to list items as we did them, sorry i wish i could have posted pictures but oh well.

1. Place vehicle on the hoist and and leave transmission in neutral, disconnect battery.
2. Raise vehicle, mark front and rear driveshaft's so you can install them exactly as you take them off.
3. We used a exhaust stand at the back of the transfer case and took the pressure off the trans crossmember, and remove the crossmember.
4. disconnect oxygen sensors, loosen and remove exhaust clamps and the exhaust manifolds, than remove the 2 nuts that bolt the Y pipe to the muffler and remove the exhaust system (from just in front of the muffler all the way up the the exhaust manifolds).
5. At this point you can disconnect trans oil cooler lines from the trans
6. Disconnect all vent hoses and electrical connectors from the trans and transfer case, now is also a good time to disconnect the shift cable from the trans and transfer case as well.
7. We did unbolt the starter and just sat it aside ( not sure if you have to unbolt it or not but we did).
8. Remove the 4 Torque converter bolts
9. At this point the only this holding the transmission and transfer case on is the bell housing bolts.
10. We used a transmission jack and placed it under the transmission and transfer case.
11. Removed all bell housing bolts
12. Removed Transmission and Transfer case as one unit.
13. Removed metal shield (sandwiched between engine and trans)
13. Marked and removed flexplate bolts, removed flexplate.
14. Removed rear main seal and installed new seal.
15. Repeat in reverse to complete

Over all it went very well, it sure helps having access to the right tools and equipment. Hopefully at some point this info helps someone else as i could not find any info when i was looking!

take care!

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Hi guys, kind of resurrecting this old thread, anyway i finally made it a priority and replaced the rear main seal on my jeep (2004 liberty 3.7/auto)...

Thanks for the update!

Did you find the OEM seal removal/installer tool? If not, what did you use to remove the old seal and then install the new one?

Thanks again!

Bob

 

[retrota79]

Thanks for the update!

Did you find the OEM seal removal/installer tool? If not, what did you use to remove the old seal and then install the new one?

Thanks again!

Bob

I was not able to find a oem seal installer.
all we did was use a metal scribe (sharp point) to punch a small hole in the seal, be careful of where you make it not to close to the sealing surfaces of the seal. Than screwed a small screw into the hole and using a flat screw driver and small pry bar you can pop it out! As for installing the new seal we filled the inside of the seal with grease so the spring will not fall out or move, lube the seal where it where it seats on the crankshaft and we tapped it in with a hammer. Slow and steady tapping ever so slightly on all slights and it slid right in! worked like a charm.

 

[libertybob]

Big job

Just did this last week. Tip: removing starter with exhaust crossover pipe connected not possible on 4x4 - no clearance. So, unbolt crossover pipe & support it (2 bolts muffler, 2 spring loaded bolts passenger side, 1 clamp at exhaust pipe on driver side 10mm nut), slide crossover pipe to driver side, remove heat shield side bolt from starter, bend cover over to unplug solenoid & remove battery cable from starter, remove 2 starter bolts, rotate starter 90 degrees, remove top bolt on heat shield, slide out heat shield, then slide out starter after moving exhaust crossover pipe to get room. Then unplug the 2 O2 sensor cables on the driver side. You have to remove the starter to get your hand in to unplug the top O2 sensor cable. The O2 cables are why you must support the crossover pipe when first unbolting it. Also, I had to remove the transfer case before removing the trans so I could use the 36" extension to remove the trans bolts.

You do not mention starter removal in your list of things to remove but it must come out. The sequence of how you remove parts is important as noted above. Also you have to remove the trans support cross member to remove the exhaust pipe. Unplug the electric connectors (40) after the exhaust pipe is removed and install them before the exhaust pipe or you can't plug in the passenger side connector. Don't forget to disconnect and connect the oil cooler lines and the trans & transfer case shift cables.

I used a bathroom toilet flange (the one the toilet sits on) to drive in the crankshaft seal. This applies even pressure on the seal and avoids bruising it with a hammer. Lube the bore of the seal with grease and the OD with non hardening Permatex gasket sealer to avoid leads on the OD. Seat the seal, put the toilet flange on the seal and tap it in going around the edge of the toilet flange at 45 degree intervals. Go slow and it will seat perfectly without distortion. I drive in the seal a few thousandths per revolution of tapping so as not to distort the seal. I can send the sequence of work I did step by step if this would help. I am trying to pay back guys on this forum who have helped me immensely with my Liberty.

 

[tommudd]

Just did this last week. Remove front drive shaft. Tip: removing starter with exhaust crossover pipe not possible on 4x4 - no clearance. So, unbolt crossover pipe & support it (2 bolts muffler, 2 spring loaded bolts passenger side, 1 clamp at exhaust pipe on driver side 10mm nut), slide crossover pipe to driver side, remove heat shield side bolt from starter, bend cover over to unplug solenoid & remove battery cable from starter, remove 2 starter bolts, rotate starter 90 degrees, remove top bolt on heat shield, slide out heat shield, then slide out starter after moving exhaust crossover pipe to get room. Then unplug the 2 O2 sensor cables on the driver side. You have to remove the starter to get your hand in to unplug the top O2 sensor cable. The O2 cables are why you must support the crossover pipe when first unbolting it. Also, I had to remove the transfer case before removing the trans so I could use the 36" extension to remove the trans bolts.

Depends on the year , some you can drop out with out removing exhaust

 

[retrota79]

Just did this last week. Remove front drive shaft. Tip: removing starter with exhaust crossover pipe not possible on 4x4 - no clearance. So, unbolt crossover pipe & support it (2 bolts muffler, 2 spring loaded bolts passenger side, 1 clamp at exhaust pipe on driver side 10mm nut), slide crossover pipe to driver side, remove heat shield side bolt from starter, bend cover over to unplug solenoid & remove battery cable from starter, remove 2 starter bolts, rotate starter 90 degrees, remove top bolt on heat shield, slide out heat shield, then slide out starter after moving exhaust crossover pipe to get room. Then unplug the 2 O2 sensor cables on the driver side. You have to remove the starter to get your hand in to unplug the top O2 sensor cable. The O2 cables are why you must support the crossover pipe when first unbolting it. Also, I had to remove the transfer case before removing the trans so I could use the 36" extension to remove the trans bolts.

all we did was unbolt the starter with the 2 mounting bolts, we left the shield and everything else connected. the exhaust was easy unbolting at the manifolds and at the muffler to drop the entire y pipe to move out of the way. getting at the 02 sensors is possible while the exhaust is still in there just tricky. and letting the t-case and trans hang lower in the back allows us to get access to the trans bolts quite easily!

 

[ElCheapo]

Little late to the party I guess, but to install seals, I use a socket of a size that will fit, or, if bigger, a piece of PVC pipe will work, just find a size that fits properly, and use the sch40, which has the heavier walls. You may need a 2x4 held across the opening that you are tapping with the hammer, if starting it straight is a problem.
I needed an axle nut socket for my pinion seal, 2.25" IIRC, but my wheel seals only needed a 1.25" one.

 

[libertybob]

More info

Just did this last week. Tip: removing starter with exhaust crossover pipe connected not possible on 4x4 - no clearance. So, unbolt crossover pipe & support it (2 bolts muffler, 2 spring loaded bolts passenger side, 1 clamp at exhaust pipe on driver side 10mm nut), slide crossover pipe to driver side, remove heat shield side bolt from starter, bend cover over to unplug solenoid & remove battery cable from starter, remove 2 starter bolts, rotate starter 90 degrees, remove top bolt on heat shield, slide out heat shield, then slide out starter after moving exhaust crossover pipe to get room. Then unplug the 2 O2 sensor cables on the driver side. You have to remove the starter to get your hand in to unplug the top O2 sensor cable. The O2 cables are why you must support the crossover pipe when first unbolting it. Also, I had to remove the transfer case before removing the trans so I could use the 36" extension to remove the trans bolts.

You do not mention starter removal in your list of things to remove but it must come out. The sequence of how you remove parts is important as noted above. Also you have to remove the trans support cross member to remove the exhaust pipe. Unplug the electric connectors (40) after the exhaust pipe is removed and install them before the exhaust pipe or you can't plug in the passenger side connector. Don't forget to disconnect and connect the oil cooler lines and the trans & transfer case shift cables.

I used a bathroom toilet flange (the one the toilet sits on) to drive in the crankshaft seal. This applies even pressure on the seal and avoids bruising it with a hammer. Lube the bore of the seal with grease and the OD with non hardening Permatex gasket sealer to avoid leads on the OD. Seat the seal, put the toilet flange on the seal and tap it in going around the edge of the toilet flange at 45 degree intervals. Go slow and it will seat perfectly without distortion. I drive in the seal a few thousandths per revolution of tapping so as not to distort the seal. I can send the sequence of work I did step by step if this would help. I am trying to pay back guys on this forum who have helped me immensely with my Liberty.

Should have stated 2003 4x4 with 3.7L. Was working on concrete pad in my back yard with Liberty on jack stands. If you have a hoist, would be a much easier job, but I didn't. You will need a transmission jack. Also, clearance for the starter removal and unplugging the 02 sensors may be easier on some models, but on my '03 it is difficult. I swore the engineer's mother never knew his father!

 

[CactusJacked]

When I removed my trans, I unbolted the starter and pushed it up out of the way to gain access to the other bellhousing bolts. It doesn't have to get dropped out.

 

[Pro comp liberty]

Hey guys figured I'd reach out for some helpful advice on my Liberty 5-speed remain seal needs replaced can anyone tell me if you had to drop the subframe or unbolt the motor and jack it up to be able to drop the oil pan to change the seal? Just figured seek some advice before I go any further I've already got a new clutch and everything ready to go back in when I'm done