03 Liberty: Battery Issue (new battery, alternator good, what could it be??)

[thegreatgate]

I have an 03 Liberty with 180k on it.

Was driving it and the battery light remains on almost immediately after driving (so I put in a refurbished battery), then after a while the information center will black out. Then the radio will black out. Then random lights will go on on the dash. It's now been sitting for a while and required a jump.

So anyways, I returned the refurbished battery and replaced it with a new battery. The problem persisted. We did pull off the alternator and it was brought in to O'Reilley's and tested a couple times, and tested good.

So it is not the battery or the alternator.

I bought a red and black cable to run new wires from the battery but my brother noticed one of the grounds looked loose. He tightened it and it tested good.

Is there a known issue such as what I am describing, and hopefully a known solution? I know it is something stupid, just can't figure it out.

 

[tjkj2002]

Either a wiring problem of the PCM has failed.The PCM contains the voltage regulator for the alternator.

 

[thegreatgate]

Either a wiring problem of the PCM has failed.The PCM contains the voltage regulator for the alternator.

Well my brother did not do the two brand new battery cables...There are multiple wires attached to the red cable, and he didn't want to mess with it.

Taking it to my trusty shop on Monday. Hopefully it just needs the two cables.

BUT...If it is the PCM, then how much can I expect to pay at a shop??

 

[tjkj2002]

Well my brother did not do the two brand new battery cables...There are multiple wires attached to the red cable, and he didn't want to mess with it.

Taking it to my trusty shop on Monday. Hopefully it just needs the two cables.

BUT...If it is the PCM, then how much can I expect to pay at a shop??

The positive battery cable is a dealer item only,about $100 some dollars if bought at the dealership.The PCM is going to be alot more $$$($500-$800) and the dealership will have to program it unless the shop as access to the correct programming gear and Chryslers website to download the program and VIN.

 

[yellocoyote]

As someone who has had to replace the factory battery wiring harness, there's really no way to make new battery cables from your run of the mill parts store work. Sorry.

 

[thegreatgate]

As someone who has had to replace the factory battery wiring harness, there's really no way to make new battery cables from your run of the mill parts store work. Sorry.

:shooter: :boxing:

 

[Billwill]

It is quite common to have bad battery connections, bad connection of negative lead to chassis, bad connection of grounding strap earthing the engine to the chassis.

If you clean and tighten all of the above I am sure your problem will not return.

And bear in mind if you start replacing cables....the thick cable going from the alternator to the battery positive lead actually has a fusable link inbedded in it near the battery end....in case of major shorts or someone connecting the battery wrong way around.

 

[DocHemi]

Either a wiring problem of the PCM has failed.The PCM contains the voltage regulator for the alternator.

Could be the BCM....which contols all the functions of the dash, lighting, accessories...etc.

Want to borrow my DRBIII to check it out ..LOL

Just saying it could be alot of things...start with the battery terminals and connections, and check all ground leads, both of these have caused many people to wig out over an electrical gremlin...only to find it was something simple.

 

[yellocoyote]

The factory harness is some sort of 10-12 tentacled beast... starting at the battery, but also includes all the grounds, plus alternator, starter, engine block, fuse box. It wasn't a fun job. I used to have the photo of it, but it was on my old photobucket account which I killed earlier this year.

Found this one online...

You must be registered for see images attach

It's not a hard fix until you have to connect to the starter and to the engine block. The rest of them are easy.

 

[DocHemi]

The factory harness is some sort of 10-12 tentacled beast... starting at the battery, but also includes all the grounds, plus alternator, starter, engine block, fuse box. It wasn't a fun job. I used to have the photo of it, but it was on my old photobucket account which I killed earlier this year.

Found this one online...

You must be registered for see images attach

It's not a hard fix until you have to connect to the starter and to the engine block. The rest of them are easy.

Done a few of those...and yeah they SUCK

 

[thegreatgate]

UPDATE: FIXED

COST: $50

ADD TOW: $65

TOTAL: $115

From what I understand the mechanic cleaned down the corroded wires.

You know the fuse box on the right side of the engine? Well there is some type of metal plate that connects to that fuse box on the left-side of it when you open it up. That was one area that he fixed. And possibly some wires going to the alternator (not sure).

But anyways, problem so far is solved. So far no battery light has come on and it was going on immediately before....My check engine also is off but I am pretty sure it will come back on shortly.

Very pleased that it wasn't the computer or battery cables...