'03 KJ CV Axle or Driveshaft issue...

[Redsnake]

Additional Follow-up:

I was doing a tire rotation last weekend and while I had the KJ up on jacks I was checking the drivetrain. I noticed the rubber boot on the CV Joint that I had replaced was already gone/ripped up. So beware. I've contacted the seller f/ amazon where I purchased the CV Joint and was told to send in the old one for a refund so we'll see what happens. I ordered a replacement f/ driveshaft parts and hopefully will be of OE quality. Really hate to go thru this annually but we'll see what happens w/the new part arrives.

 

[uss2defiant]

I had a small slit in my boot from driveshaftparts immediately after installing it and test driving it.
Their CS was good and they sent me a replacement for free. They typically don't have warranty on the boot.

So might want to inspect it before installing.

 

[Redsnake]

I most definitely will give it a thorough inspection once I receive it. The part that failed so quickly was a Dorman part I picked up through an Amazon seller. We shall see...

 

[Johnny Turbo]

Hello. I am looking for the intermediate shaft for our 2004 KJ. I will be replacing the Passenger CV shaft also. The inner CV is hanging down a bit and moves up and down. I'm guessing that it would be a good idea to replace the needle bearing and seal also. Is there a trick to getting out that bearing? Also, is there one vendor that has all the parts? inner shaft, bearing, seal and outer (right side) CV Shaft? The seal is not leaking. Is it more work to get that bearing out than its worth? Started with a low grinding noise and hubs didn't fix it... Thanks!

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Hello. I am looking for the intermediate shaft for our 2004 KJ. I will be replacing the Passenger CV shaft also. The inner CV is hanging down a bit and moves up and down. I'm guessing that it would be a good idea to replace the needle bearing and seal also. Is there a trick to getting out that bearing? Also, is there one vendor that has all the parts? inner shaft, bearing, seal and outer (right side) CV Shaft? The seal is not leaking. Is it more work to get that bearing out than its worth? Started with a low grinding noise and hubs didn't fix it... Thanks!

Here is a link to the intermediate shaft that I bought off Amazon. It's also available at Summit Racing. I bought an extra one to have on the shelf as a backup.

As for the CV axles... Use the NAPA reman units. They are typically long enough to not cause problems; new ones from them and other places are usually too short and cause all kinds of problems. Some are having difficulty getting the remans from NAPA but evidently their new ones have worked OK. First/best option though are the remans.

Unless that bearing seal is leaking I wouldn't worry about it. Some have changed it but it's kind of a pain. It's easy enough to pull the intermediate shaft and CV axle again if it requires you to replace the bearing and seal.

Let us know if you need any help :waytogo:

Bob

 

[CzarKJ]

It was a pain to get that bearing and seal out! I used a slide hammer and reversed claw but I am sure that's not the correct way to do it. I had to cut a relief in the seal to actually get the red loctite to release.

 

[Johnny Turbo]

Thanks for the info guys. I have a new shaft sitting in my napa cart right now! I'll get the reman one after ur advice. I'll check that bearing but not try to remove unless shaft looks f'd. Not looking forward to pulling that spindle (?) out to do it.

 

[Johnny Turbo]

A little update on my shaft, **** and bull story...
I ordered up the shaft. It came right away and looked like a pretty decent OEM shaft. I ordered the needle bearing and the seal just in case I needed those also. I beat the car apart and the old shaft came out with no problem. The old shaft looked really good with little noticeable wear on the splines or where the needle bearings ride. I put the new intermediate shaft in but didn't replace the bearing or seal. I replaced the passenger CV shaft with one from Napa. I took it for a ride and it still made the grr grrr grrr rotational noise that had me going bonkers. I then pulled out the front drive shaft and the transfer case CV joint boot was cracked but not trashed. There wasn't much play in the joint and it still had lots of clean grease in it. I drove the Jeep without the front shaft and it was a bit smoother but still had that grrr grrr noise. I then ordered the cv kit and waited. While I was waiting I thought, could I be low on front diff juice and wiped out a pinion bearing? It was full and looked great but I replaced that expensive stuff anyway. I drove the car for a week and that noise was just as bad as before and had me wondering what it could be and secretly wishing what ever it was would just seize up, fall off, or what ever, just so I would find out what it was. But my wife drives the car with my kids so that's really not a capital idea there.

Every time I change the oil I rotate the tires and inspect them closely for shifted belts, etc. Been there before. I roll them on smooth pavement and scoot behind and watch the sidewalls, tread, and tread surface for anything that isn't uniform. These tires have been fine all along. They are the first replacement of the same tires that came stock. Goodyear Wrangler SR-A. The car now has 138,000 miles on it and the tread still has 7/32 center depth. I thought that I would try using the old, never used spare to swap out my tires to see if the noise went away. I started with the driver's front and the damn sound is gone. I looked at the tire I took off and cannot tell what could be making that noise but it is definitely gone. I received the cv joint and installed it and the car runs great, smooth and quiet.

My lesson learned is that grinding grr grr grr sounds that drive you nuts can certainly come from decent looking tires.

I need a driver's door now to start fixing some rust spots.

 

[ltd02]

A little update on my shaft, **** and bull story...
I ordered up the shaft. It came right away and looked like a pretty decent OEM shaft. I ordered the needle bearing and the seal just in case I needed those also. I beat the car apart and the old shaft came out with no problem. The old shaft looked really good with little noticeable wear on the splines or where the needle bearings ride. I put the new intermediate shaft in but didn't replace the bearing or seal. I replaced the passenger CV shaft with one from Napa. I took it for a ride and it still made the grr grrr grrr rotational noise that had me going bonkers. I then pulled out the front drive shaft and the transfer case CV joint boot was cracked but not trashed. There wasn't much play in the joint and it still had lots of clean grease in it. I drove the Jeep without the front shaft and it was a bit smoother but still had that grrr grrr noise. I then ordered the cv kit and waited. While I was waiting I thought, could I be low on front diff juice and wiped out a pinion bearing? It was full and looked great but I replaced that expensive stuff anyway. I drove the car for a week and that noise was just as bad as before and had me wondering what it could be and secretly wishing what ever it was would just seize up, fall off, or what ever, just so I would find out what it was. But my wife drives the car with my kids so that's really not a capital idea there.

Every time I change the oil I rotate the tires and inspect them closely for shifted belts, etc. Been there before. I roll them on smooth pavement and scoot behind and watch the sidewalls, tread, and tread surface for anything that isn't uniform. These tires have been fine all along. They are the first replacement of the same tires that came stock. Goodyear Wrangler SR-A. The car now has 138,000 miles on it and the tread still has 7/32 center depth. I thought that I would try using the old, never used spare to swap out my tires to see if the noise went away. I started with the driver's front and the damn sound is gone. I looked at the tire I took off and cannot tell what could be making that noise but it is definitely gone. I received the cv joint and installed it and the car runs great, smooth and quiet.

My lesson learned is that grinding grr grr grr sounds that drive you nuts can certainly come from decent looking tires.

I need a driver's door now to start fixing some rust spots.

This is a good writeup. Glad you found it and let us know what it was. Should be useful for someone in the future. I've been through these elusive issues before on more than one vehicle. Thought you needed the driver's door because that was where you vented your frustration. :gr_grin:

 

[adamkrz]

I had the exact noise and replaced the same parts as you, For me it was also the tire which looked like new - An expensive lesson learned in the middle of a cold winter.