02 3.7 rough idle run and white smoke?

[02silliberty]

180k 1 owner limited liberty
Running fine and next day turns over but wouldn't crank. No codes via torque pro.
My daughter calls to say it won't crank and i think it became flooded after trying many times. I remember the hose to the pcv having cracks so i change it.
Pulled the plugs and were black. 1 was blown and bent. Changed these in February less than 10k mike on them NGK.
New platinum ngk installed and with gas peddle to the floor i get it running but it's rough and the smoke starts. Never smooths out and very sluggish on the power. Only smokes when i rev it up or get on the gas and can feel the missing.
Oil is low but clean and coolant is also clean.
It starts up without help but its rough.
Put it in a shop for diagnosing.
Give me thoughts what could've happened if the pcv was not sealed. Pcv was fine when i checked it.
Thanks

 

[02silliberty]

Just got diagnosis and low vacuum.
Guessing bent valve.
Would compression test show what cylinder

 

[tommudd]

and throw those NGK Plats in the garbage
Plats do not run well in a KJ at all no matter the brand
One of mine I bought way cheaper due to bad idle, coughing etc
Pulled a plug and knew what it was, paid for it and screwed in a new set of NGK coppers right there, and idled perfect

 

[02silliberty]

Ok any body out there?
#2 cylinder no compression. All others seam good 150+psi. Take a look at the blown plug. Hooked compressed air up and feel it at manifold butterfly. Im looking for references for parts thinking timing chain went and needs changed. Pulling head off to look at valves and hoping it's just the 1 valve issue. Help please

 

[JeepJeepster]

If the plug was bent then you have some serious issues. That means something came apart and was beat around by the piston and it hit the spark plug.

You'll know more when you pull the head but dont hold your breath.... And it most likely isnt the timing chains. Could be a broken valve spring or it dropped a valve seat.

 

[02silliberty]

With valve cover off what could i look for before getting head off?
Ultimately im hoping no cylinder or wall damage or scoring. Its definitely the inlet valve with air test and #2 at TDC and valve cover on.
With constant air pressure at 25psi, valve cover off i rotated the crank at the balancer and had all spark plugs loosened and never heard or felt the air thru top of head only manifold and exhaust.
This color ok? Ive use mobil1 full synth high mileage since 100k at 7000 mile intervals driving in the burbs. Not to many long trips or sitting in traffic.
Without air running what's the noises i can hear? Oil pump pushing slowly?

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[JeepJeepster]

Rotate the engine and see if the valves for #2 open and close like the others. Pay particular attention to the exhaust valve since its right by the spark plug.

Have you shined a flashlight down into the plug hole? You should be able to tell if something has beat around on the top of the piston.

 

[02silliberty]

Thx boss. Sometimes the answer is so simple you just can't see it.
Should i set TDC of #1 before removing cam gears and how to check the timing chains for stretching? I don't want to replace parts if i don't need to.
Any good vids you got?

 

[02silliberty]

I would've thought the valve next to spark plug would be inlet for fuel and the other on the side of the exhaust manifold would be the exhaust valve.
Really hard to tell whats in the spark plug hole, its small. I see that the plug sits at an angle to the valve. The ceramic insulation was obviously in there.
Wondering if i can call a late night tv lawyer to get a suite against ngk for an 8 month old spark plug coming apart and causing the trouble

 

[02silliberty]

Think you nailed it. I removed manifold and valve seat looks blown plus all the metal shrapnel that came out of manifold. Should i even waste the time to go any farther thinking the cylinder is chewed up.

 

[JeepJeepster]

Dang, sorry to see that.

I'm not sure what the chances are of the walls not being scored. Since the spark plug isnt destroyed, maybe its not that bad.

Yes, the color is just fine.

It could help to set it to TDC before removing the cam chain. Im not sure about the chain stretch but I dont believe that is an issue on these engines.

 

[02silliberty]

Is there a trick to holding the cam still to remove the bolt? Guess i could stabilize the balancer and put the plugs back in. I don't want to put any stress on chain that it's not made for. I want to tear it down to see the chamber. New rebuilt is to much to invest so i may find a used motor to swap parts on. I got the time

 

[JeepJeepster]

TIMING BELT/CHAIN AND SPROCKET(S)
REMOVAL (1) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
(2) Drain cooling system(Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
(3) Remove right and left cylinder head covers(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(4) Remove radiator fan shroud(Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - REMOVAL).
(5) Rotate engine until timing mark on crankshaft damper aligns with TDC mark on timing chain cover (Fig. 115) and the camshaft sprocket “V6” marks are at the 12 o’clock position (#1 TDC exhaust stroke) (Fig. 114).
(6) Remove power steering pump(Refer to 19 - STEERING/PUMP - REMOVAL).
(7) Remove access plug from left and right cylinder heads for access to chain guide fasteners (Fig. 116). (8) Remove the oil fill housing to gain access to the right side tensioner arm fastener.
(9) Remove crankshaft damper (Refer to 9 - ENGINE/ENGINE BLOCK/VIBRATION DAMPER - REMOVAL) and timing chain cover(Refer to 9 - ENGINE/VALVE TIMING/TIMING BELT / CHAIN COVER(S) - REMOVAL). (10) Collapse and pin primary chain tensioner. CAUTION: Plate behind left secondary chain tensioner could fall into oil pan. Therefore, cover pan opening.
(11) Remove secondary chain tensioners.
(12) Remove camshaft position sensor (Fig. 117).
(13) Remove left and right camshaft sprocket bolts.
(14) While holding the left camshaft steel tube with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the left camshaft sprocket. Slowly rotate the camshaft approximately 5 degrees clockwise to a neutral position. (15) While holding the right camshaft steel tube with Special Tool 8428 Camshaft Wrench, remove the right camshaft sprocket.
(16) Remove idler sprocket assembly bolt.
(17) Slide the idler sprocket assembly and crank sprocket forward simultaneously to remove the primary and secondary chains.
(18) Remove both pivoting tensioner arms and chain guides.
(19) Remove primary chain tensioner.

It says to use a special tool, but I would just try an impact wrench to zip it off.

 

[02silliberty]

I sure appreciate the info. The cam shaft bolts are torque at 90ft lbs so I hope impact gets them off without stress on chains. Chains appear to be ok.
Is there anyway to know there fine by measuring the play or length.
Ive seen some vids of people using vice grips and a towel to hold camshaft between the lobes.