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If that linkage we re disconnected I'd find it hard to believe that is the cause of the no starting. I've always found my shifter really easy to move. I'd be more inclined to think it's a broken ignition actuator pin in the steering column. Would explain everything electrical working but no...

Yes I did! I was even out there yesterday again and at one point had the links off and reinstalled...still had the sound. New links too...hence why I'm baffled. The sway bar is usually the first place I look when something is making noise...maybe it requires a third look :think:

Anyone had a bad cv make a clunk/pop sound when turning? I don't really have a vibration or groaning sound, but I'm pretty confident the rest of the front suspension is good to go...almost everything is new and double checked for proper torque. It will also happen the odd time when I make a...

That said, how does the Libby run with those new plugs? I'm curious if they are in fact platinum tipped because I don't think I've heard anyone around here recommend using them over the regular old copper plugs

Based on the small electrode I'd hazard a guess that those are platinum tip NGKs...still copper core though.

If you aren't losing coolant I wouldn't say it's a head gasket problem. Definitely should not have mixed coolant...id be pissed at the shop for that. If it were me, I'd flush everyone out, and REALLY flush it out with clean water...flush both the block and radiator.

Come check out some yards in Canada if you're within reach of the border. You're exchange rate would put you in a great spot to find a lower mileage, low cost engine.

A lot of the time clunks/groan/squeaks are from worn stabilizer bar links or bushings...may want to check those

what happened? Just curious

If you torqued them to spec I don't see what the issue is? If you're really worried you could just take them out, wipe off the anti-seize and re-torque but if it's running fine...

Most people here will recommend buying the moper rear upper control arm as it'll far outlast the cheap aftermarket parts. it comes with all new bushings and ball joint installed. Easy swap to do to with some simple tools and a floor jack or something. EDIT: seems like tom beat me to it lol

it sounds like the flush may have loosened a bunch of crud in the engine and now its just working its way through to the filter...hence why its clogging. If that is in fact the case, I'd be worried about buildup happening in oil passages within the engine which could I guess lead to oil...

Don't know if I missed it, but what oil are you using? (Brand etc..)

I'd be suspicious of an internal head gasket leak. Could be leaking into a cylinder and be burned off. What you're losing sounds like a significant leak!

Honestly why would you want to do a spacer lift, then redo it again in, what, a years time??. Plus I wouldn't mix the parts from RRO with the tried and true OME lift.... It sucks to wait (I waited a year or so as I pieced together what I needed as funds allowed), but you're better off waiting...

Ya us Canadians are getting shafted these days with the exchange rate. I'm just glad I got my lift all squared away before it got as bad as it is now.

I have/had that same bubbling next to my roof rails. After looking at it for a few months I decided one day to just cut it out. Couldn't believe the amount of rusty flakes I scraped/vacuumed out before beginning the repair. I ended up cutting out a lot more than what was visibly bubbling from...

JBA offers the chromoly links with the tri link. I don't think you can call either of the offered links cheap in any way. They're obviously tried and tested. I agree the price is up there, but you factor in the prices of the joints, arms, bracket...not to mention the labor cost to build the...

theres also a bleed screw on the upper coolant hose but i've done what dude1116 said several times and never had a trapped air issue.

that areas on my to-do list next summer. Been dying to get up to Northern Michigan and do some exploring