Sense check me for 245/75's

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Atrus

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I don't know why I am doubting myself - guess I am just looking for reassurance that they sky won't fall if I pull the trigger on some 245/75's.

I am currently running 235/75's on stock rims. I will be reusing the stock rims. I have the MD OME setup with a 3/8" top plate up front and 1 extra iso in the rear. No clevis lift as I had UBJ-spring contact when I tried it. Currently, I get a little rubbing between the sidewall and sway bar at full lock.

Do you foresee any issues with 245/75? FWIW, I am purchasing Cooper Discoverer AT3's (P-Series).

Here I am sitting currently, on 235/75's:

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John3seventeen

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245/75r16 Cooper AT3's on factory wheels (E load rating) I've noticed no rubbing since lift. Strange how some rub and some dont.

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VAhlene

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I too have 245/75 on stock wheels. I just have OME coils no top plate or clevis lift and only place they rubbed was the pinch welds but I have pounded them down and no rub on anything else, I do however have 1.25" spacers.
 

Atrus

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OK, I am pulling the trigger. Basically, after a rebate and installation, I am looking at $590 out the door for (5) 245/75-16 Cooper AT3's. Not too shabby!
 

tommudd

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Since you only have the medium springs and clevis what do you measure from middle of wheel to bottom of flare
Everyone is saying OK but I know they have HD springs and more added
Plus have to knocked over the pinch weld yet?
 

Luke

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You will most likely rub on the sway bar ... if you don't make a lot of u-turns (like I do) it may not be an issue for you.

VAhlene has spacers like I do which solves that issue.
 

u2slow

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Atrus, your KJ looks a tad low in the front. I had balljoint/coil interference too, but didn't care. It lasted several months till I got my UCAs, and even then, the stock balljoints were in good shape despite the rub marks.
 

Atrus

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I am 21.25" from center of wheel to outside bottom of flare (it tapers down as it goes into the wheelwell).

Haven't touched the pinchwelds, but I am fine with pounding them over if I have a problem.

Aside from new a-arms, is there something I can do to move the UCA away from the spring a little more? Offset bushings or something?
 

tommudd

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I am 21.25" from center of wheel to outside bottom of flare (it tapers down as it goes into the wheelwell).

Haven't touched the pinchwelds, but I am fine with pounding them over if I have a problem.

Aside from new a-arms, is there something I can do to move the UCA away from the spring a little more? Offset bushings or something?

No offset bushings available
with those springs you're more than likely will need to pound the pinch welds over
 

tommudd

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Atrus, your KJ looks a tad low in the front. I had balljoint/coil interference too, but didn't care. It lasted several months till I got my UCAs, and even then, the stock balljoints were in good shape despite the rub marks.

Thats what the medium springs gets you
 

Atrus

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They are on order, so we'll see how it does I suppose.

Toyo Open Country A/T - 235/75-16: 29.9" diameter, 9.3" Width
Cooper Discoverer A/T3 - 245/75-16: 30.31" diameter, 9.6" Width,

Don't seem to be too drastically different (famous last words)...
 

u2slow

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I am 21.25" from center of wheel to outside bottom of flare (it tapers down as it goes into the wheelwell).

Aside from new a-arms, is there something I can do to move the UCA away from the spring a little more? Offset bushings or something?

Front and rear flares are not even. Compare it to the body line and you'll see what I mean. When a KJ is level, there's more tire clearance in the front ;-)

IMO, make the UCAs your followup purchase for down the road. The stockers are throwaways with the balljoint built in. The aftermarket ones have replaceable heavy duty balljoints.

I put my lift and spacers on first. Then got the LT245/75R16E tires. The front rubbed a bit, so it wasn't long before I did the pinch weld mod and some minor plastic trimming. I got the UCAs about 8-9 months later.
 

Atrus

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Eh, I really don't offroad anymore. KJ is just a commuter. I do like having the ground clearance and ruggedness just because. May sound dumb to most on here, but it just makes me comfortable and confident knowing it can handle a lot of various things I could throw at it. I'm not ashamed to admit it - I've become a Mall Crawler.

Anywho, uca's will be replaced only if they need it. (Knock on wood) thus far they seem just fine.

Understood on front and rears. I have very little concern on the rear as I can easily adjust that. The measurement I posted was both fronts - they appear to be damn near equal.
 

u2slow

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Anywho, uca's will be replaced only if they need it. (Knock on wood) thus far they seem just fine.

I hate non-serviceable parts, so the UCA upgrade was a no-brainer. The fact they compensated for lift was a bonus.
 

tommudd

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At the height you are the front UCAs will last for quite a while or should. Of course had one guy here locally who was sitting about the same with a full spring lift from Rustys and his right side went before he had 50,000 on . Just keep checking them
 

Atrus

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Yup, I typically rotate tires and change oil every 5k. I inspect everything while I have the wheel off.

Admittedly, as I knew these tires had some miles on them and would be replaced soon, I haven't rotated them in a good 10k miles.
 

HoosierJeeper

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I run 245/70/17s (same as a 245/75/16) with the medium duty springs, bit of clevis in the front, nothing extra in the rear, JBA UCAs and have only minimal rubbing on the front of the wheel well at full lock (only notice/hear it in reverse). Haven't pounded the pinchweld and only did a bit of trimming on the air dam, but I ran it that way without the trimming there for a while with no issues.
 

Atrus

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So, FYI - seems that the Cooper AT3's fit with no problems. Only have a few miles on them, but (knock on wood) they seem to rub on the sway bar LESS than the 235/75's I had on there!

I'll check it out better a little later today and see how it does at full lock in reverse and whatnot.
 
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