Would a Dana 30 be worth using?

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Ry' N Jen

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Damn, that's too bad...
Would of been a valuable resource for all of us folks who are starting from square one!
I saw your parts list. Is it on this site or over on LOST?
I guess I'll try the search function and see if I can find it.
Unless you happen to have a link handy?

Cheers
Ry
 

Red_KJ_666

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There's another problem with running a Jeep 30hp or TJ 44 for that matter The Kj rear is 3" wider than either of those so you have to run wheel spacers or live with a narrower front track width than rear. Also RY your current D30A ARB won't work in the other Dana 30's iirc, and if you run a TJ44 or XJ 30HP you also won't be able to run a independent coil/shock setup you will be limited to C.O.'s because there is simply no room to mount them separately otherwise. Troy is right in the fact that if you don't cut into the engine bay with the C.O.'s you won't get very good flex, the spring rates most of the guys are very high as well normally a 450/500 or worse 500/500 10" travel combo. Currently I'm running a 150/300 14" combo that's a bit soft for a DD but flex's awesome. Soon my 12" FOA's will be repaired (Now that they're re-opened) and I'll be on a 250/300 Combo which should flex well and compliment my OME 891 rear springs well. Here's some of Troy's build link to LOST LOST JEEPS • View topic - It sits level
 

Ry' N Jen

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According to the ARB website, the RD100 Air locker used in the Dana30A is the same as the JK Wrangler (Non Rubicon), Grand Wagoneer, etc. so the locker will be good to use in a Dana 30
(See this PDF link for details: {Page 2} http://arb.com.au/media/products/air-lockers/application_chart.pdf )
Anyway I'm still learning about all this stuff!
I'm not going to pretend to know stuff that I know sweet F A about!
 

Ry' N Jen

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Link to my parts list..................

LOST JEEPS • View topic - My SFA parts list(JJ inspired)


Your ARB RD100 should fit in a TJ D30 and a HP30,can not say about the JK D30 as I'm just to lazy to research it right now.

Thanks Troy.
I'll be looking over your parts list closely and looking where you spent your hard earned cash!
Although I don't think I will go as extreme as you (But you never know Eh?)
It will give me a great bench mark as to what I should be shooting for!

Hell, it's only money, right?

You sure cannot take it with you when you croak!
 

Chino78

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If I remember right my front shocks are just shy of 14" of travel but I limit the down travel a little(via limit strap) to keep the left tri-link off my pinion flang since I'm running a 1350 u-joint there.

Troy, didn't you use front rubicon express shocks for a 4" lifted ZJ???... I think these are only like a 10-11" of travel... That's what I remember when I had my ZJ a long time ago... :shrug:
 

J-Thompson

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But your issue is you need that stub shaft to be able to drive it or the unit bearing falls apart.A HP44 you do not need that stub shaft to drive the vehicle.

No joke
But you can pull the inner stuff a rag in the tube and drive
home ,wheelin trip over
on the great and mighty HP44 you can pull the stub shaft
and drive home ,wheelin trip over
Now with the 30
I call a wrecking yard
ask them the question about the 4WD Jeep
pick up the used stub shaft and wheelin on

As to the track width
KJ rear is 59.7
TJ front is 58.X
Round about an inch or so
wider wheels and or spacers and problem solved
 

Red_KJ_666

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No joke
But you can pull the inner stuff a rag in the tube and drive
home ,wheelin trip over
on the great and mighty HP44 you can pull the stub shaft
and drive home ,wheelin trip over
Now with the 30
I call a wrecking yard
ask them the question about the 4WD Jeep
pick up the used stub shaft and wheelin on

As to the track width
KJ rear is 59.7
TJ front is 58.X
Round about an inch or so
wider wheels and or spacers and problem solved

The KJ is actually 62.5" Rear
While the XJ 30hp is 58.75"
so it's almost a 4" Difference in reality, if you dpn't believe me strip her down and measure your rear Rotor hat to Rotor hat surface where the wheel bolts up.
 

J-Thompson

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The KJ is actually 62.5" Rear
While the XJ 30hp is 58.75"
so it's almost a 4" Difference in reality, if you dpn't believe me strip her down and measure your rear Rotor hat to Rotor hat surface where the wheel bolts up.

Why do that
I have google and that is where I got my numbers from
If the KJ really is 4" wider then the ruts created by TJ/YJ's
would have been no issue or cause our KJ to unseat beads
and rip side walls
Yet for some strange reason it fit right in the ruts
which in turn caused the rear diff to drag

Still dont believe my try searching Jeep Liberty track width
then do the same for the TJ
 

tjkj2002

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Why do that
I have google and that is where I got my numbers from
If the KJ really is 4" wider then the ruts created by TJ/YJ's
would have been no issue or cause our KJ to unseat beads
and rip side walls
Yet for some strange reason it fit right in the ruts
which in turn caused the rear diff to drag

Still dont believe my try searching Jeep Liberty track width
then do the same for the TJ
You still think your google search of 18' for a TJ's turning raduis is correct so your probally not correct of the track widths either but think you are because you found it through google so it must be correct.
 

tjkj2002

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So anyway, a Dana 44 would be a good choice for a front differential then?
What does a good second hand unit cost typically Stateside?
What are your plans is said SFA swap happens? Keeping the 8.25 in the rear?

Basically you got 3 main D44's you can use............

One with 4.5 on 5 bolt pattern that is low pinion and uses D30 outers and must use coil overs,the TJ Rubicon D44.

One that is 5 on 5 bolt pattern that is high pinion but much wider then a stock,might be able to use seperate coils/shocks but most likely have to use coilovers,the JK Rubicon D44.

Then the last one is is 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern and is high pinion,can be narrower then stock(EB HP44) or much wider then stock(F100/F150 HP44),will require welding on new brackets but has all serviceable bearings and manual lockouts.You only want '75-'77 F100/F150 HP44 due to weld on wedges and can look up the good years for EB's.


As far as local prices here in CO HP44's can be had for $150-$200,JK D44's run about $1200+,and TJ Rubicon D44's(now rare) run about $800+ without knuckles,axles,or brakes since when they upgrade they must transfer that stuff to there new axle in most cases.Granted the Rubicon D44's will come with a locker already which is either air(junk) or electric.
 

MSReNeGaDe

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What are your plans is said SFA swap happens? Keeping the 8.25 in the rear?

Basically you got 3 main D44's you can use............

One with 4.5 on 5 bolt pattern that is low pinion and uses D30 outers and must use coil overs,the TJ Rubicon D44.

One that is 5 on 5 bolt pattern that is high pinion but much wider then a stock,might be able to use seperate coils/shocks but most likely have to use coilovers,the JK Rubicon D44.

Then the last one is is 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern and is high pinion,can be narrower then stock(EB HP44) or much wider then stock(F100/F150 HP44),will require welding on new brackets but has all serviceable bearings and manual lockouts.You only want '75-'77 F100/F150 HP44 due to weld on wedges and can look up the good years for EB's.


As far as local prices here in CO HP44's can be had for $150-$200,JK D44's run about $1200+,and TJ Rubicon D44's(now rare) run about $800+ without knuckles,axles,or brakes since when they upgrade they must transfer that stuff to there new axle in most cases.Granted the Rubicon D44's will come with a locker already which is either air(junk) or electric.

Air lockers at junk? I was under the impression Arb lockers were the lockers of choice for most people

sent using the dark side of the force
 

Ry' N Jen

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I was thinking a ford 8.8 Or 9 inch for the rear or a bigger Chrysler Corporate rear end...
As i really know very little about all this stuff, im learning as I go.

Remember I'm a classic Mini guy, that's where all my knowledge and expertise is in!

Jen says i should look into buying complete bolt in high quality aftermarket differentials.
Not inexpensive, but easier and better in the long run.

I'm open to suggestions.

An SAS will definately happen in the near future.
 

Ry' N Jen

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I've been reading up on a couple of aftermarket diff manufactures.
Currie and Dynatrac seem to be two big companies to study.
My eyes are really starting open in regards to options and applications with all this information.
There are many choices to say the least. I've got allot of research to do to figure out what I want/expect from an SAS conversion on a KJ.
Set a budget and build up good used axles or buy complete aftermarket units?

The saving grace is that Jen's into it just as much as I am...

Allot of work ahead of me.
 

J-Thompson

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You still think your google search of 18' for a TJ's turning raduis is correct so your probally not correct of the track widths either but think you are because you found it through google so it must be correct.

Both were found on Jeeps web site
But maybe you know more about the
demnsions then they do
 

tjkj2002

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I was thinking a ford 8.8 Or 9 inch for the rear or a bigger Chrysler Corporate rear end...
As i really know very little about all this stuff, im learning as I go.

Remember I'm a classic Mini guy, that's where all my knowledge and expertise is in!

Jen says i should look into buying complete bolt in high quality aftermarket differentials.
Not inexpensive, but easier and better in the long run.

I'm open to suggestions.

An SAS will definately happen in the near future.
That's what I did with my rear RockJock60.Ordered it with the TJ mounts already welded on,forgot to tell them to not weld on the shock mounts so had to cut them off to weld on new ones to work in the KJ.
 

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