Would a Dana 30 be worth using?

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MSReNeGaDe

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Go ahead and ask them how many axles they've broken. The answer is 0. Axle sleeves and c gussets are all you need. I wish i had the link showing the strength of a d44 vs a sleeved and gusseted d30 so i could get you to open your eyes for 2 seconds.

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tjkj2002

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Go ahead and ask them how many axles they've broken. The answer is 0. Axle sleeves and c gussets are all you need. I wish i had the link showing the strength of a d44 vs a sleeved and gusseted d30 so i could get you to open your eyes for 2 seconds.

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Now they just moved the weak point to the ring and pinion and spider gears which is alot weaker then a D44's.

Besides half of those Jeeps are not running 35"+ tires in that pic.
 

J-Thompson

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Just remember
Opinions are like butts
We all got them they all stink

I say go cheep with readily available replacement parts
He says spend 3 times as much because you never know
 

tjkj2002

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Just remember
Opinions are like butts
We all got them they all stink

I say go cheep with readily available replacement parts
He says spend 3 times as much because you never know
That is true.

The cost difference between a HP30 and HP44 is not that much and in some cases the HP44 replacement costs are cheaper then a HP30.
 

J-Thompson

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That is true.

The cost difference between a HP30 and HP44 is not that much and in some cases the HP44 replacement costs are cheaper then a HP30.

True
But I know that I can walk into any wrecking yard
find a wrangler and pull all but the R & P and it will work
Thus the 30 is a better choice
Other wise with the 44 I need to find 1 from a specific
make ,modle and year
 

tjkj2002

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True
But I know that I can walk into any wrecking yard
find a wrangler and pull all but the R & P and it will work
Thus the 30 is a better choice
Other wise with the 44 I need to find 1 from a specific
make ,modle and year
Not for a HP44.You can use parts from 3 different makes(Ford,Chevy,and Jeep).Lets take wheel bearings,about $150 each side for the HP30 as there unit bearings,a HP44 is less then $80 for the whole set(both L&R).I can name alot of other parts that are crossable for a HP44 and they made just as many,if not more,cross compatable 44 parts then a D30/HP30.
 

MSReNeGaDe

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Not for a HP44.You can use parts from 3 different makes(Ford,Chevy,and Jeep).Lets take wheel bearings,about $150 each side for the HP30 as there unit bearings,a HP44 is less then $80 for the whole set(both L&R).I can name alot of other parts that are crossable for a HP44 and they made just as many,if not more,cross compatable 44 parts then a D30/HP30.

How often are wheel bearings going out? Its not like you have to get new ones every oil change

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tjkj2002

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How often are wheel bearings going out? Its not like you have to get new ones every oil change

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Expect about every 100k or so in 100% stock trim,far sooner if your running 35"+ tires.At least with a HP44 they are serviceable to extend the service life far beyond what a typical unit bearing will last not to mention the greater load capicity of the tapered roller bearings compared to ball bearings.
 

J-Thompson

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Not for a HP44.You can use parts from 3 different makes(Ford,Chevy,and Jeep).Lets take wheel bearings,about $150 each side for the HP30 as there unit bearings,a HP44 is less then $80 for the whole set(both L&R).I can name alot of other parts that are crossable for a HP44 and they made just as many,if not more,cross compatable 44 parts then a D30/HP30.

Yeah but price matters very little if you are stranded
until you can show me that nearly 2 million vehicles
rolled out using the same basic parts
We both know there was no where near that
And I am talking stub shaft not bearings
Napa has bearings but not shafts
 

tjkj2002

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Yeah but price matters very little if you are stranded
until you can show me that nearly 2 million vehicles
rolled out using the same basic parts
We both know there was no where near that
And I am talking stub shaft not bearings
Napa has bearings but not shafts
HMMM every Ford 1/2 ton from the late '60's to even the late '90's TTB's,GM's 1/2 tons with either the D44 or Corp10 bolt,and all those FSJ's running a D44 front.I'd say that's well over 2 million.
 

MSReNeGaDe

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HMMM every Ford 1/2 ton from the late '60's to even the late '90's TTB's,GM's 1/2 tons with either the D44 or Corp10 bolt,and all those FSJ's running a D44 front.I'd say that's well over 2 million.

Fjs? How many of those are still rolling?
You can just accept that there is more than one way to do things. Its not hard
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Ry' N Jen

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I've been discussing the Dana 44 vs. Dana 30 with the guys in our club and it's a 65%-35% split there as well!
Allot of the folks Jen and I go out with say go with a Dana 30 and then upgrade to a 44 down the road.
Some say go with a Dana 30 I already have an air locker for the front and I could spend some cash on internal parts...
I am of the opinion of doing it right the first time.
Mind you, we wheel with folks who run D30's up front and 33's and upto 35's and don't have any problems (yet!)

Like I said, I/we are still learning.

No need to get into a ******* match...
 

J-Thompson

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HMMM every Ford 1/2 ton from the late '60's to even the late '90's TTB's,GM's 1/2 tons with either the D44 or Corp10 bolt,and all those FSJ's running a D44 front.I'd say that's well over 2 million.

My point is way over your head
Say I am 500 miles from home and I break a stub shaft
I can call a wrecking yard and ask
"do you have an '87-'06 Jeep wrangler with a front axle"
Or
"do you have '60-'90 ford blah blah blah"
See my way = easy
 

tjkj2002

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My point is way over your head
Say I am 500 miles from home and I break a stub shaft
I can call a wrecking yard and ask
"do you have an '87-'06 Jeep wrangler with a front axle"
Or
"do you have '60-'90 ford blah blah blah"
See my way = easy
But your issue is you need that stub shaft to be able to drive it or the unit bearing falls apart.A HP44 you do not need that stub shaft to drive the vehicle.
 

MSReNeGaDe

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I'll throw this question out there too.
Are coil over shocks in the front end the way to go or is it better (flex wise) to have the coil spring seperate from the shock absorber?

i see the really built jeeps with coilovers.

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tjkj2002

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I'll throw this question out there too.
Are coil over shocks in the front end the way to go or is it better (flex wise) to have the coil spring seperate from the shock absorber?
Coilover can flex but coilovers and a KJ you end up with less then steeler flex.Reason is most are using 8" or 10" coilovers so keep from having to lift it skyhigh or cutting into the engine bay.

If I remember right my front shocks are just shy of 14" of travel but I limit the down travel a little(via limit strap) to keep the left tri-link off my pinion flang since I'm running a 1350 u-joint there.
 

Ry' N Jen

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Coilover can flex but coilovers and a KJ you end up with less then steeler flex.Reason is most are using 8" or 10" coilovers so keep from having to lift it skyhigh or cutting into the engine bay.

If I remember right my front shocks are just shy of 14" of travel but I limit the down travel a little(via limit strap) to keep the left tri-link off my pinion flang since I'm running a 1350 u-joint there.

Interesting Troy.

Where can I find a full write up on your build Troy?
 

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