Towing

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

RageOfFury

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Messages
794
Reaction score
1
My "new" liby doesn't have the tow package. I am going to add a hitch and wiring harness(4 pin) in the coming weeks. Is there anything else I need to add? Do I already have the proper cooling?

I won't be towing much. No more than 1500lbs probably.

What do you guys recommend hitch and wiring wise? I'm guessing there is a how-to on this subject...
 

sleeve

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
393
Reaction score
3
Location
Woodward Ave
The non-"Tow Package" liberty has a factory tow capacity of 3500 pounds.

I was always a fan of hidden hitch.

As for past topics: You can use the advanced search function and type in "Towing" and select KJ Genereal Discussion to get plenty of history on how to install one, what is recommended and such...

I keyed in the same search and my results are here. I don't know how long the search will stay linkable though.
 

RageOfFury

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Messages
794
Reaction score
1
The non-"Tow Package" liberty has a factory tow capacity of 3500 pounds.

I was always a fan of hidden hitch.

As for past topics: You can use the advanced search function and type in "Towing" and select KJ Genereal Discussion to get plenty of history on how to install one, what is recommended and such...

I keyed in the same search and my results are here. I don't know how long the search will stay linkable though.
Thanks for the link, I found some very useful threads.;)
 

kb0nly

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2009
Messages
2,165
Reaction score
5
Location
Planet Earth
Yep, i just did this on my 03'

Go to eTrailer.com and check them out, oh wait your in Canada i don't know if they ship to Canada or not? I thought someone on here mentioned that they didn't or the cost was really high or something?

I got my Curt Class III for $154 and a wiring harness for another $45. I went with the harness that plugs inline with the rear end harness in the back right corner, same for all 02-07 models, its Hopkins 42475, you just pull the back right corner panel out and unplug the large harness plug and put the Hopkins inline with it, it has mating plugs. Takes like 5 minutes and your done, there is a rubber grommet in the floor in that corner under the carpet behind the panel to pass the wiring down through.

You can get the factory harness but when i was checking prices on it they were $80-$150 depending on the dealer i spoke to, and most of them had a week or so wait time to get it. I would go with the aftermarket harness like i did.

The hitch just bolts up with six bolts. If you have a gas tank skid plate you just remove the stock bolts and place the hitch over the skid and put in the new bolts that come with the hitch. If you don't have a skid, like in my case, then get a wire brush and some penetrating oil and clean the heck out of the threads in the nuts in the frame. I couldn't find the right tap to run through them, thats an option if you can find one, so i just took a plumbers brush for 1/2" pipe and run it through them a while to clean out the threads, along with soaking the brush in PB Blaster.

The only problem i ran into was the front passenger side bolt, it was right above the exhaust and it was a pain to get too from underneath. If you have this problem save yourself some time and trouble and pull off the right rear wheel so you can access it easier from the wheel well, of course support it with some good jackstands for safety.
 

TAHOE

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 15, 2009
Messages
508
Reaction score
0
Location
Cincinnati, Ohio
I would recommend even without towing to upgrade the ****** cooler, just some added lifetime insurance. With you only towing 1500#'s or so, I wouldn't say it is a necessity, but would be recommended.
Also, if you have any kinds of hilly terrain, consider only pulling with OD off as running with OD can cause ****** to do extra shifting and build heat.
I also have an aftermarket wiring harness, about same as kbonly, but mine required and extra hot wire to be ran to a switched battery source, they are very easy to install, plug and play. Takes longer to pull interior panels than hook up.
i would definitely looked into a 12mmx1.75 thread tap, I would guarantee those threads in the holes are rust up and need cleaned out before trying to bolt up hitch.
 

RageOfFury

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Messages
794
Reaction score
1
I checked etrailer.com and shipping to Canada is way expensive. I'll just go to that trailer store in town and check out what they have.

How hard is it to upgrade the cooling for the 42rle ******?
 

kb0nly

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2009
Messages
2,165
Reaction score
5
Location
Planet Earth
I would recommend even without towing to upgrade the ****** cooler, just some added lifetime insurance. With you only towing 1500#'s or so, I wouldn't say it is a necessity, but would be recommended.
Also, if you have any kinds of hilly terrain, consider only pulling with OD off as running with OD can cause ****** to do extra shifting and build heat.
I also have an aftermarket wiring harness, about same as kbonly, but mine required and extra hot wire to be ran to a switched battery source, they are very easy to install, plug and play. Takes longer to pull interior panels than hook up.
i would definitely looked into a 12mmx1.75 thread tap, I would guarantee those threads in the holes are rust up and need cleaned out before trying to bolt up hitch.

That's the old version...

The new Hopkins version, 42475 is the model number, has the power wire integrated into the harness and it takes power from the rear power outlet circuit whose wiring also goes through the main harness at that plug.

If you look at the instructions for the 42475 part number on eTrailer it still shows a seperate power wire that needs to be run, but the unit itself comes with an edited instruction sheet explaining the change to the power wire.

Some thought its not a powered converter because there is no separate power wire, but i found out that when i pull the fuse for the rear power outlet the trailer lights don't work, thats how i found out what circuit was powering it.
 

kb0nly

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2009
Messages
2,165
Reaction score
5
Location
Planet Earth
I checked etrailer.com and shipping to Canada is way expensive. I'll just go to that trailer store in town and check out what they have.

How hard is it to upgrade the cooling for the 42rle ******?

Ahh ok.. I thought someone else said the same thing about shipping to Canada from eTrailer. Well you should be able to find a more local supplier for the hitch and wiring.

You can get a universal trans cooler kit from most places that sell towing accessories, unless you wanted a totally stock install then your going to have to scrounge parts to put all together.
 

RageOfFury

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Messages
794
Reaction score
1
Looks like Reese and Draw-Tite are the same company. Here are the parts I'll need:

-Reese custom fit hitch #44082
-Reese t-one connector harness #85254


As for upgrading the ****** cooler, sounds complicated and messy.
 

RageOfFury

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Messages
794
Reaction score
1
Alright.

Well I may tow 2-3 times a year and not very far. Probably never more than 1500-2000lbs. Don't think it's worth the money and hassle to install a ****** cooler...:-k

I'm going to keep looking online for a KJ how-to on the 42rle cooler. If it looks simple, then I might end up doing it. Will see.
 

sleeve

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
393
Reaction score
3
Location
Woodward Ave
For the amount of towing and the weight at which you will be towing, I do not think you will need the added cooling of an auxillary transmission cooler. For your situation, the advice is: Lock out the O/D when you are towing. This will cut down on the heat generated inside the transmission

Lower Heat = Longer Transmission Life.

The transmission cooler on your KJ is external to the radiator.

Here is good thread discussing heat, towing and the possible fixes in regards to this particular setup: Transmission Cooler, Necessary?
 

kb0nly

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 7, 2009
Messages
2,165
Reaction score
5
Location
Planet Earth
For the amount of towing and the weight at which you will be towing, I do not think you will need the added cooling of an auxillary transmission cooler. For your situation, the advice is: Lock out the O/D when you are towing. This will cut down on the heat generated inside the transmission

Lower Heat = Longer Transmission Life.

The transmission cooler on your KJ is external to the radiator.

Here is good thread discussing heat, towing and the possible fixes in regards to this particular setup: Transmission Cooler, Necessary?

Not to mention all the annoying extra shifting an auto does when towing with overdrive.. Which of course contributes to that heat. Sorry, had to mention that. A friend of mine was towing in overdrive one day in his Trailblazer and driving me nuts doing it!
 

RageOfFury

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Messages
794
Reaction score
1
Yeah I know about O/D. My dad always turns it off when he's towing or going up a hill with his Durango. I will be doing the same with my Liberty. Oh and never use cruise control when towing right?
 

sleeve

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2008
Messages
393
Reaction score
3
Location
Woodward Ave
I use cruise control through the midland (flatlands) of America when I'm towing. I disengage it for uphill and downhill stuff though.
 

Atrus

Full Access Member
Joined
May 15, 2007
Messages
4,400
Reaction score
13
Location
Metro Detroit, MI
What's the difference in transmission cooling between a tow-package equipped KJ and a standard?

I know tow package adds hitch, wiring, and extra fan. Any other changes like a beefier trans cooler, or is it the same capacity "in-radiator" type?
 
Top