Steering wheel Twitch After OME Lift

[LibertyTC]

I have been wondering what this bump steer is all about. Getting a bit of a twitch left-right in steering wheel. Have had two alignments now and all wheels re-balanced.
It now is better but still not perfect..SO...My next step is going to be install JBA's 4.5 A-Arms and do clevis lift.
The question is: Should I also replace the lower ball joints with Moog's and have the zerk fitting then? Or just leave the stock sealed LBJ's as they are?
Any thoughts regarding the twitch when I hit big bumps in roadway, it also does it going slowly, if you let go of the wheel.
My guess, it will be cured with the new A-arms and a better alignment.

 

[yellocoyote]

The JBA UCA's will help for sure - especially in the alignment department.

You haven't had your lift on all that long yet, right? If not, I'd be a little hesitant about doing a clevis lift until you're sure your new springs have settled in already. I've seen proof of people locally having issues with going too high too soon by putting even 1/2"-1" of extra lift in before the break-in period was done.

 

[rockymountain]

LibertyTC mine did the same thing. Mine REALLY did it with a clevis lift when the old Aarms were at max. I asked about it too a while back on here. A perfect alignment will get it ok where you don't notice it too much. With that being said, now that I have my al's a-arms it doesn't do it at all. It is just like it's supposed to be. IMO the stock a-arms just aren't very stable with a 2-3 inch lift. Do they work? yes Well? No.

 

[LibertyTC]

4.5s & Lower Ball Joints

Jayme, not to worry the new springs have lost 1/2 inch of lift and are settled.
I bounced em pretty good off road & over speed bumps the first two weeks.
You could say I abused the springs already.
To oil em they got covered in mud!:icon_biggrin:

And RM That is what I needed to hear! Confirms that I am not the only one with this shimmy over bumps etc and that the JBA 4.5's cured it.arty52:
Will do 3 conduits on passenger side and 4 on drivers side as it is a bit lower.
Will give me the extra 1 inch lift to better level the front end of this p:KJ.

Should I also replace the lower ball joints with Moog's and have the zerk fitting then?
Or just leave the stock sealed LBJ's as they are?

Also does the 4.5 include new rubber bushings where the bolts up top go through?
Should I order new bolts as well? Included?

 

[rockymountain]

Jayme, not to worry the new springs have lost 1/2 inch of lift and are settled.
I bounced em pretty good off road & over speed bumps the first two weeks.
You could say I abused the springs already.
To oil em they got covered in mud!:icon_biggrin:

And RM That is what I needed to hear! Confirms that I am not the only one with this shimmy over bumps etc and that the JBA 4.5's cured it.arty52:
Will do 3 conduits on passenger side and 4 on drivers side as it is a bit lower.
Will give me the extra 1 inch lift to better level the front end of this p:KJ.

Should I also replace the lower ball joints with Moog's and have the zerk fitting then?
Or just leave the stock sealed LBJ's as they are?

Just so you know I'm only running about 1/8 inch of clevis lift on mine right now. Gives me around 1/4 inch of lift in front to level mine out. I have 0 extra isos in back. I would stay at 2 or 3 rings if I was you so you don't piss off the CV joints.

I'm running my LBJs until they go bad. They're pretty tight still. But if you do replace them, get the zerk fitted Moog's.

 

[LibertyTC]

I have one extra iso in rear and when lift was fresh had 22 even inches all the way around.
Now Front sits at 21.5 (center hub to flare) passenger and Drivers 21.25.
Want to target around even front at 22.25-22.5 inches. (still under 23") for cv.
I edited one more question in (you are quick RM.)
Should I order in new bolts for 4.5's and are all the rubber bushing new that go though bolts?
Also does the JBA a-Arms add any height in themselves in any way?

 

[yellocoyote]

Should I also replace the lower ball joints with Moog's and have the zerk fitting then?
Or just leave the stock sealed LBJ's as they are?

I have the Moog LBJ's on mine, but only replaced them because of a hole in the passenger side boot. Replaced the pair about 2 years ago, and they are holding up well. If it were me, I'd probably wait until I needed to replace them.

Also does the 4.5 include new rubber bushings where the bolts up top go through?
Should I order new bolts as well? Included?

Yes, the JBA's do have the bushings already pressed into them. No, they do not come with new bolts. I reused the ones I had - they were in great condition. I helped a friend swap out his, and the bolts holding his in were really rusty (we live within 20 miles of each other)... so if you have a 2nd vehicle handy, maybe just wait to see the condition of yours before deciding to replace. :shrug:

No additional lift by switching to JBA's.

 

[rockymountain]

I think I have some overly enthusiastic rear springs. I have no extra isos and I sit at 22. Better than the other way around I guess. :smokin:

 

[HoosierJeeper]

Going to sticky this...

 

[LibertyTC]

Thanks Jayme & RM & Tommudd

Where did my post go? Ah...I see.. HJ Moved it to the Sticky..:shakehead:
Why do I get the feeling JBA & All J will be selling more 4.5's after this post.
Right after installation of the OME 927 & Bilstiens (which seem softer valved than Ranchos) it came out of the alignment shop with the steering wheel shaking pretty bad, back and forth, over every bump in road.
I had to re-balance all the rims and moved front to rear, as one rim was out of round, and only then did it turn from a shake to a twitch.
In other words this problem is amplified by other items like tires, rims, and probably wrapped around the idea your alignment is not worth a oop: with the stock p:A-Arms, while lifted.
Tom had also pointed me to alignment as main cause of this steering problemo.
I completed a second alignment after the springs settled in, which helped, but still it is far from perfect.
So hopefully in the future as we all recommend to newbies (like me) lift information, lets include recommending JBA's 4.5 for stability in alignment and steering.
We also should consider throwing a caution regarding "the stock arms" are ok, as my experience was really problematic, and borderline dangerous initially.
I certainly will post back with photos, and hopefully a happy story, once my 4.5's are installed.
Thanks again to Jayme,RM, and Tom for getting the 4.5's ordered immediately.:waytogo:
I expect after installation of the new A-Arms, stability in steering will return with a better alignment.

 

[Ry' N Jen]

I have one extra iso in rear and when lift was fresh had 22 even inches all the way around.
Now Front sits at 21.5 (center hub to flare) passenger and Drivers 21.25.
Want to target around even front at 22.25-22.5 inches. (still under 23") for cv.
I edited one more question in (you are quick RM.)
Should I order in new bolts for 4.5's and are all the rubber bushing new that go though bolts?
Also does the JBA a-Arms add any height in themselves in any way?

No Tim, Al's upper control arms do not add any height to the suspension.
They also come complete with new rubber bushings fitted.
You can reuse the factory hardware for the 4.5 upper control arms.
As long as the stock bottom ball joints are still in good working order, just leave them be!

 

[Jo6pak]

So are you now saying that new UCAs are "highly suggested" after doing an OME lift even without extra isos or top plates?

If so, then the extra $400 puts the final nail in my lift plans:disgust:

 

[Ry' N Jen]

So are you now saying that new UCAs are "highly suggested" after doing an OME lift even without extra isos or top plates?

If so, then the extra $400 puts the final nail in my lift plans:disgust:

You do not need to fit after market upper control arms after an OME lift.

 

[LibertyTC]

Ya Ryan that is what I was told too.
Fact is that you and many others chose to do your lift, with the 4.5's all at once, good plan.
You never got to drive it without the 4.5s lifted.
Both Rocky Mountain & Myself have experienced this bump steer twitch without the 4.5's.
It does have something to do with the higher you go the worse it gets, without the 4.5 A-arms installed. In my case the steel top plate gave me an additional 6/8th inch extra lift.
Did my jeep align well..according to the alignment sheet ok.
In a stock situation where you may be just installing the OME springs and strut without any additional lift, I really can not comment. I also had wheel balance and rim out of round up front.
If you are going to simply do the OME lift without spacers it is all about the alignment, wheel balance etc. So get someone who really has a tuned up alignment machine or you may experience some uncomfortable steering twitches, which is not good.
Would I recommend after this experience JBA 4.5 A-Arms absolutely! Do it right once!
Why find out like me you still now need the 4.5's to get a better alignment, and stop this stupid, weird feeling, steering wheel issue.
I am also at this point quite confident that even with the spacer & Clevis lift, I finally will be able to have a level front end and great steering control.
Ryan's rig drives much differently, and corners wicked with the 4.5's installed. Ryan & Jayme also have the Daystar top plate which also I do not.
Soon with the new A-Arms installed, I am sure hoping my rig will be in much better shape!!!
Still waiting to hear from HJ on his ride..he installed the basic lift, OME & Same Bilstien shocks..without a top plate..how is your steering HJ??

 

[Uncle Krusty]

So are you now saying that new UCAs are "highly suggested" after doing an OME lift even without extra isos or top plates?

If so, then the extra $400 puts the final nail in my lift plans:disgust:

I've been running just the OME spring lift on an '06 limited 4x4. I went 926 "mediums" in the front. I didn't accelerate the settling in, but let it occor naturally over the past 8 monmths, and have lost about 1/2" in that time. Yes its due for an alignment again...

With the initial alignmnet, I was told the only thing they couldn't get in spec was the caster. Was it noticeable? Not realy.

When the UBJ start to go, I'll look into some JBA,s, but probably not before then (unless the money tree starts blooming) .

I'm

 

[tommudd]

I ran with stock UCAs for over 70,000 miles with no problems at all. It does align easier with the 4.5s but anything up to 22.75-23 you're pretty safe with stock

 

[LibertyTC]

Update: Form this thread: http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47052&page=9
It has been discovered that the shop incorrectly installed the front OME 927 front springs, without a lower rubber isolator. This could be a contributing factor to the bumpsteer twitch,
Goes back into shop at no-charge for them to start over and install the lower iso.
Will post back results.
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[LibertyTC]

Update Results: the front end now sits at 22 3/4" tall after installation of the lower isolators and doing clevis lift.
This unfortunately has caused tire rubbing while turning and worse, the springs are being impacted by the a-arms.
Next to hopefully cure ailments, will be necessary installation of JBA 4.5 upper control arms.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

I just don't see why your KJ has the issues with the lift. The guy that did it said that is was a an easy job and alignment was a non issue. Drives really smooth too. Hm. I'll only switch to Al's when I need new ball joints. Rubbing issues? You mean tire or spring?

 

[Ry' N Jen]

I just don't see why your KJ has the issues with the lift. The guy that did it said that is was a an easy job and alignment was a non issue. Drives really smooth too. Hm. I'll only switch to Al's when I need new ball joints. Rubbing issues? You mean tire or spring?

The back side of the upper ball joint portion of the upper control arm hits the bottom two spring coils and has ground away the powder coating and is digging into the actual coil spring HJ.