My Renegade won't start

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BigBssj5

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I was driving my Liberty today and everything was fine. I wen't to get gas and when I was all gassed up, I tried to start the car and nothing. I checked the battery and it is showing 12.6 volts. I had my fiancé turn the key and the meter doesn't change. There is no clicking noise. I can hear the fuel pump hiss and all the lights and electronics work.

I'm wondering if it is a fuse or the starter. I also saw something about the ignition switch actuator pin. Anyone have a similar experience.

Thanks for the input!!
 

Billwill

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I was driving my Liberty today and everything was fine. I wen't to get gas and when I was all gassed up, I tried to start the car and nothing. I checked the battery and it is showing 12.6 volts. I had my fiancé turn the key and the meter doesn't change. There is no clicking noise. I can hear the fuel pump hiss and all the lights and electronics work.

I'm wondering if it is a fuse or the starter. I also saw something about the ignition switch actuator pin. Anyone have a similar experience.

Thanks for the input!!

ASD relay generally has nothing to do with the engine turning over...a bad ASD relay will stop the engine from firing. Could be one of the interlocks ie. the Park or Neutral interlocks if an auto.


Good chance it is the actuator pin that is breaking...works well enough to turn the ignition ON but cannot do the final section of starting the engine...usually shows no spring resistance on the key when turning the key to Start.

First check fuse 8 and fuse 28 under the hood and check if it starts in either Park or Neutral in case one of these interlocks is not working...I presume it is an auto!

You can put it in Park, turn on the ignition and remove the Starter Relay from the box under the hood. Then briefly jumper pin 30 to pin 87 inside the Starter Relay socket...engine should turn over.

Then to get to the actuator pin, remove the two plastic covers over the steering column...two female Torx screws.

Then pull the ignition switch off the rear of the actuator pin...one smaller female Torx screw. Newer KJs use a Security Torx screw that requires a male Torx bit with a hole up the center.

You should see if bits of actuator pin fall out as you pull the ignition switch off. Dealers do not carry the actuator pin assembly...do a search to find where to buy the cheapest replacement.

In the meantime you can use a small flat screwdriver to turn the ignition switch...key must be in ignition slot for the steering lock and to enable SKIS if fitted.
 
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BigBssj5

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It ended up being the ignition switch actuator pin. It took about an hour to install. It took about another hour to diagnose why after the key was removed the chime stayed on. The new part was a little thicker in the center channel. I took a hobby file and filed it out and now everything works.
 

BigBssj5

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I'll have to remember this for next time Bill. If it happens again, after a short web search apparently it happens often enough, I can at least get home and not be stranded.
 

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