How to start with broken ignition.

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rockymountain

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Classic go out to start KJ and all lights come on but no crank.

I think the ignition broke.

How do you know it is broke and once you determine it is broke? How do you get it started? It's stuck at work and I need to get it home to work on it.

Thanks for the help!!
 

LibertyTC

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Wow That ***** RM. Cant image being off road and have that happen. What do u do?
Get a screwdriver or what? Be good to know how to do a bypass at that point!
Why do you think it is the actuator pin? Did something snap when u turned the key?
 

rockymountain

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Wow That ***** RM. Cant image being off road and have that happen. What do u do?
Get a screwdriver or what? Be good to know how to do a bypass at that point!
Why do you think it is the actuator pin? Did something snap when u turned the key?

didn't hear anything. just seems a little more dead than usual.

I'm going on this because of this thread:

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/04-ignition-problems-49036/

but I'll let you know. if anything at least I'll have a spare actuator. :shrug:
 

rockymountain

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Found that the actuator did in fact break. I got the ignition and actuator out of the Jeep and brought it in to have a look. I took apart the ignition switch in order to extract the actuator. And low and behold, what did I find?

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So what's worse than plastic? Die cast metal.

When I took apart the ignition switch, a spring flew out that I wasn't paying attention to. It looks pretty sick inside anyway so I'm getting one of those too at AutoZone. Should be about $20 or so.

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Hopefully when I put it all back together it will be like new.

I'll add that when I took the bottom plate off the bottom of the actuator that it clicked and then I was able to start the KJ.

It looked like this at that point:

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And yes, that's a Toy fob (Camry v6) which I enjoyed tremendously getting me around today. Quick car to say the least.
 
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LibertyTC

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Good Job RM! I went to the Dorman site:Dorman Products - 924-704
and interesting that part is available.
I would have liked to add a diagram from the FSM but I cant find it. SO if someone has the diagram or the name it is actually listed as in the manual or time to find it please add it, showing the ignition "actuator"
As you mentioned you had to remove the entire ignition key cylinder (fun)to access the actuator, is it bolted in? / the white plastic thing that is hanging down in the last photo?
Edit " On the Dorman site as above I watched the video was it necessary to remove the multi function switch etc did it go as the video described?

Amazing how one cheaply made part (might as well call it pot metal) can leave ya stranded.
Wonder how many paid to have the whole steering column replaced for this part?
 
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rockymountain

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I'll try to explain. It's really easy actually. the only thing you need is some security torx bits.

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I've labeled the parts in my picture. sorry did it quick in paint. Anyway, I labeled the spring loaded tab on the lock cylinder. if you have the ignition half way turned you can push that tab in and pull the cylinder right out with the key.

You can see the labeled metal plate. this simply goes on the bottom holding everything in place. The spring if you follow my jagged lines goes over that little nipple and sits in the recessed part of the plate. This adds spring action to the actuator.

Once you remove the column shroud the whole multifunction unit just lifts off. It isn't bolted down or anything.

There is one security torx screw holding in the ignition switch. Once you remove this screw, the igntion switch and actuator just pull down and then you have it out.

I wish I would've taken a picture of how these two things go together, but I was too excited to get it done I guess. I didn't see a way of getting the actuator out with taking the ignition switch apart. That's when a spring went flying out and I said the hell with it and bought a new ignition switch too. Basically there are plastic tabs on the actuator that snap into the ignition switch.

I hope this helps others. that's why I did it and I can't stand hanging threads. Seems to be plaguing the 04's so you may want to just keep an actuator on hand if you can. I've seen them as low as $25 online. they are $40 at Napa.

Its not hard to get familiar with the column. Just remove the plastic shroud around it with the two torx screws that are recessed. You don't need the security bits until you need to remove the metal plate and the ignition switch.
 

LibertyTC

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Thanks for filling in the puzzle RM!
According to the Dorman site the security Torx is a T-10 and a regular T-20 is needed too.
I think having a spare actuator would be a good thing to have, along with your serp belt.
I have an 04 and wonder if locking the wheel upside down might cause this one day too.
 

Billwill

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If you are stranded you can get the Jeep going by removing the ignition switch....the electrical unit....off from the actuator. So you will need the two Torx bits.
Then with the normal key turned in the ignition barrel to unlock the steering wheel and to enable the SKIM security system if fitted....use a small flat screwdriver to turn the ignition switch to Start.
The thin sliver of plastic going down the center of the actuator pin is there to enable the BCM to "beep" at you when you leave the key in the ignition after turning Off...it serves no other purpose!
 

Dave

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Nice write-up RockyMountain.

I made your thread a "sticky".

Dave
 

Radar

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Just a quick comment, this exact thing happened to me a few days ago in my '06 and this thread helped me quickly diagnose/resolve the issue. Thanks to all for the great write-ups & pics.
 

Jesta

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Hello all, new user seeking some advice.

2003 Jeep Liberty Renegade 3.7. Just recently began not starting, no clicking but full power inside. Battery is new as well as cables as engine was just replaced 2000 miles ago. Wierd thing about it is that 9 times out of 10 I can roll the key back to the accessory position and then it will start like normal. It doesn't "not start" everytime but when it does this usually resolves it.

I did tear apart the ignition this morning to check the ignition actuator as shown in this post but nothing was broken that I could see. Just looking for advice on where I should look next or if this is a known problem that I have not been able to track down yet.
 

rockymountain

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You could try a new ignition switch. They're not too expensive. If it's broke obviously you won't be able to tell by just looking.
 

Jesta

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So I went ahead and swapped out both the actuator and ignition switch yesterday and while it started right up both times I drove it yesterday, this morning I just got a single click.

Rolling it back to the accessory position and then starting it worked again. Is there any feasibility in thinking that the ignition cylinder itself could be causing this?
 

termin8ed

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Factory service info doesn't have anything on how to replace the actuator. We can't get it for some stupid reason. The best info is the video that dorman has. Mine stranded me with my wife and kids one day. Easy fix if you have tools. Even easier to start it up and bypass if you take the switch off like was stated.
PT cruiser uses the same actuator I believe.
 

Jesta

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Well, after the single time of it acting up again, it has not done it since. I did end up replacing both the actuator and ignition switch.
 

Austerity

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my advice is open up your jeep dash under the steering wheel, and hot wire it macguyver style

I replaced all the parts in mine and wired up a push starter. It will start with the key but I don't use it. I use the button. Now there's no need to rely on the physical actuator rod which is made out of Chinese zinc pot metal and a thin piece of plastic for your jeep to start. Hell my ignition feels different based on the temperature. I'd much rather rely on my push button thank you.

I used one for an S2000 off of eBay.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 

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