What's on fuse 8?
- Thread starter jeepbeep
- Start date
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2003 sport auto 4x4 3.7
Same here with the fuse label. I looked at the chilton diagram and it only shows the battery and starter relay.
It was doing fine earlier, then I shut it off and went back to start it two hours later and it did nothing. I replaced the fuse and it blew it again. It doesn't blow any other fuses and everything else works.
I put a new battery in it weeks back and have been driving it. Hoping someone knows what it might be so I don't do the popular -buy stuff till it works- dance.
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The ignition switch & starter motor relay are off fuse 8.
Here is your 2003 factory service manual (let it fully down load then save a copy)
http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2003JeepKJServiceManual.pdf
Something is bad in one of them, time to check into the relay & then onto the wiring!
Here is your 2003 factory service manual (let it fully down load then save a copy)
http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/2003JeepKJServiceManual.pdf
Something is bad in one of them, time to check into the relay & then onto the wiring!
Billwill
Full Access Member
Most likely suspect is the Starter Motor Solenoid or the wiring going to it is frayed to chassis somewhere. If the fuse blows immediately while cranking then the problem will be here somewhere. (8W-10-2)
Otherwise this circuit goes to the ignition switch so likewise you need to trace the wiring going to the ignition switch using the wiring diagram you will have downloaded...look for shorts to chassis!
From the ignition switch this wire splits up over 5 smaller 10 A fuses (8W-10-29) so it is more likely that one of these smaller fuses would blow if there is a problem along that line unless all these 5 lines are running at near their 10 A capacity so the total current is over 40 A....not too likely but try pull these 5 smaller fuses out one at a time to see if that helps!
The fact that the fuse blows when ignition is turned ON would suggest that the problem is where the lead leaves the ignition switch..Black/Orange wire...and enters the internal fuse panel where the smaller fuses are located or one or more of these smaller fuses are running near to their 10 A limit.
Otherwise this circuit goes to the ignition switch so likewise you need to trace the wiring going to the ignition switch using the wiring diagram you will have downloaded...look for shorts to chassis!
From the ignition switch this wire splits up over 5 smaller 10 A fuses (8W-10-29) so it is more likely that one of these smaller fuses would blow if there is a problem along that line unless all these 5 lines are running at near their 10 A capacity so the total current is over 40 A....not too likely but try pull these 5 smaller fuses out one at a time to see if that helps!
The fact that the fuse blows when ignition is turned ON would suggest that the problem is where the lead leaves the ignition switch..Black/Orange wire...and enters the internal fuse panel where the smaller fuses are located or one or more of these smaller fuses are running near to their 10 A limit.
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Yeah fuse doesn't blow till I get to the spring-loaded crank stage and turn on the switch. I put in a new fuse and starter relay today and tried. Tomorrow I put in the new electronic part of the ignition switch and new fuse.
Fuse 8 is in 8W - 10 - 10/12/15 and 8W - 21 - 2/4/6/7 and they basically show what the chilton book did except with more detail. I wonder if the starter itself can cause this via the relay? I don't think so because it would have to influence the control current of the relay.
I would of already fixed this if I wasn't at work so much. All these parts except the starter are tens of dollars at most. With a working ignition switch other circuits shouldn't influence this from what I'm seeing. Unless there is a major wiring issue making a ground hot or broken maybe. I didn't really see a ground directly on this circuit though.
Fuse 8 is in 8W - 10 - 10/12/15 and 8W - 21 - 2/4/6/7 and they basically show what the chilton book did except with more detail. I wonder if the starter itself can cause this via the relay? I don't think so because it would have to influence the control current of the relay.
I would of already fixed this if I wasn't at work so much. All these parts except the starter are tens of dollars at most. With a working ignition switch other circuits shouldn't influence this from what I'm seeing. Unless there is a major wiring issue making a ground hot or broken maybe. I didn't really see a ground directly on this circuit though.
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New fuses, switch, starter relay, and fuses 24-25-37-38-39 not blowing. Still pops 8 fuse on what looks like 1 position. Also airbag light started staying on when this started.
The only event i can think of before this was BR taillight harness being tightened. But this bus doesnt look to even share a ground. I tried with that light disconnected too.
Im going to try screw-on battery terminals next since i dont have time to run new cables. Ill try to hunt any grounds connected by switch or starter too..
Im curious if its the starter solenoid how does it spike the relay-control current to blow 8?
UPDATE: New terminals didn't help. Battery is new and tested. Since I'm short on free-time and the related wires are in a loom jammed between the transmission and firewall with about 1.5 inches of free space I'm going to send it to a shop. I didn't see any burned shielding from what I could see without lifting the engine. I seen some splices on this circuit I didn't have time to follow in the shematic.
UPDATE 2: Jumping the starter works but I get a lot of lights
UPDATE 3: short to ground around switch..fixed
The only event i can think of before this was BR taillight harness being tightened. But this bus doesnt look to even share a ground. I tried with that light disconnected too.
Im going to try screw-on battery terminals next since i dont have time to run new cables. Ill try to hunt any grounds connected by switch or starter too..
Im curious if its the starter solenoid how does it spike the relay-control current to blow 8?
UPDATE: New terminals didn't help. Battery is new and tested. Since I'm short on free-time and the related wires are in a loom jammed between the transmission and firewall with about 1.5 inches of free space I'm going to send it to a shop. I didn't see any burned shielding from what I could see without lifting the engine. I seen some splices on this circuit I didn't have time to follow in the shematic.
UPDATE 2: Jumping the starter works but I get a lot of lights
UPDATE 3: short to ground around switch..fixed
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