What did you do to your jeep today?

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burntkat

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My solution would be a welder and a nut.

Failing that, put a round nursert in its place. Tack 2 or 3 spots around the perimeter and Bob's your father's brother.
 

burntkat

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Was going to TS the 'no high speed fan run' condition in the Jeep, but got busy working on the fridge. I believe the defrost control unit (electromechanical, no computer!) has gone south. It keeps freezing up the evap core in the freezer, and losing circulation to the fridge, so you have a freezer that's - 20F, and the fridge is 50 degrees (due to no circulation since everything is frozen up). Defrost heater metered out to 35 ohms (should be 20-50 so that's perfect) haven't been able to meter out the defrost t-stat but it looks fine (which tells us absolutely nothing).

I replaced the defrost timer with this unit, but there were no instructions.

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Did some research and it sounds like I have the black wire in the proper place now. We shall see. If anyone is an appliance repairman I'm all ears.
 

lfhoward

Wheel. Repair. Repeat.
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I did the spark plugs today.

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They all look worn out but identically so. This is good. No cylinder is out of whack.

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I always use copper core NGK’s and replace them every 30,000 miles. The part number is on the box.

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Quick question.

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You can see nearly all the engine wire looms have disintegrated again. The replacement loom available from the auto parts stores just does not last in the heat of the engine bay. Does anyone know of a brand of wire looms that will last more than a year?
 

Neal

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There is a blower motor relay in power distribution center, but it feeds high side to blower motor.
Then blower motor to resistor block to heater switch to ground.
So, all speeds would be lost if relay was bad.
 

burntkat

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Quick question

You can see nearly all the engine wire looms have disintegrated again. The replacement loom available from the auto parts stores just does not last in the heat of the engine bay. Does anyone know of a brand of wire looms that will last more than a year?
You might try anti-chafe from a hose shop. The good stuff is designed to run in such conditions.

EDIT - I got curious, and found this....

I have no experience with that product, but the company makes good stuff.
 

CherokeeLiberty

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I did the spark plugs today.

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They all look worn out but identically so. This is good. No cylinder is out of whack.

You must be registered for see images attach


I always use copper core NGK’s and replace them every 30,000 miles. The part number is on the box.

You must be registered for see images attach


Quick question.

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You can see nearly all the engine wire looms have disintegrated again. The replacement loom available from the auto parts stores just does not last in the heat of the engine bay. Does anyone know of a brand of wire looms that will last more than a year?
Whatever Ford used in the late 2000’s is fantastic. Both of our Mariners’ looms were/are in great shape for their age.
 

lfhoward

Wheel. Repair. Repeat.
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Today I’m painting skid plates. I removed them to do the transmission and service the front differential and transfer case the other day. Because of a rear main seal leak, they had between 1/8-1/4” oily dirt built up on top! I got them cleaned off in preparation for painting this morning.

Engine skid: some scrapes and only one meaningful dent… not bad for 13 years on the Jeep!
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Transmission skid: supposed to fit back over my PML deep transmission pan. Fingers still crossed.
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Transfer case skid: the one with the broken nutzert that drove me crazy for 2 hours the other day.
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This stuff works well on seriously oily, greasy metal. A bristle brush is helpful also.
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Painting will be part 2…
 

burntkat

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Transmission skid: supposed to fit back over my
Transfer case skid: the one with the broken nutzert that drove me crazy for 2 hours the other day.
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How did you end up addressing the munged nutsert?
 

lfhoward

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I found an extra one in my parts bin from when I installed the skid plates back in 2013. It was round not hexagonal, but it clamped down fine on the hexagonal hole. I’m ready to install the skid plates as soon as I can get one more coat of paint on them and then the paint dries.

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Using Rustoleum automotive rust reformer paint. This has worked great for me in the past. My lower control arms and rock sliders still look great after 2 years.
 

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