What did you do to your jeep today?

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LibertyTC

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Well your above link is taking it to a post in Gen Discussion, but you did mange to do it right there.
You have to have the image tag & then above in the post box where the yellow mountain box is click on that, which is "insert image", then paste the Image tag..done.
I use IMGUR cropped it and insert image...Nice Set up, you are ready to go !
61734[/ATTACH]"]
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dude1116

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Had it towed. Off to the parents house where I'll be eventually replacing the axle, intermediate shaft, and maybe some seals/bushings/bearings.
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sota

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hope you didn't pay a lot. and was it undriveable?
 

Aceofspades

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Well your above link is taking it to a post in Gen Discussion, but you did mange to do it right there.
You have to have the image tag & then above in the post box where the yellow mountain box is click on that, which is "insert image", then paste the Image tag..done.
I use IMGUR cropped it and insert image...Nice Set up, you are ready to go !
61737[/ATTACH]"]
You must be registered for see images attach



Thanks. Since photo bucket I’ve always added the tags manually and checked to see if the image showed up or not.
Using google photos, not sure what hosting site is best now a days
 

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wheeee32

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Had it towed. Off to the parents house where I'll be eventually replacing the axle, intermediate shaft, and maybe some seals/bushings/bearings.
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Was it not driveable even with taking out the front driveshaft? It really isn't too bad a job. Tools and a second set of hands are what made that job easier for me. Oh and having it on a lift was nice too.
 

Myke

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Still waiting on the tubing to come in for my KJ rear links.


So I started building the XJ. Had to up my jack stand game from to 2 ton to 12 ton for the height. From HF and they go up to 30". My jack doesn't go that high but I have enough room for the axles to hang.
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dude1116

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hope you didn't pay a lot. and was it undriveable?
Nah it was 75 bucks for piece of mind. It was driveable. I drove right up the ramp. That said who's to say the CV wouldn't just bind up on the highway and stop the wheel?? That's the last thing I wanted.
 

dude1116

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Was it not driveable even with taking out the front driveshaft? It really isn't too bad a job. Tools and a second set of hands are what made that job easier for me. Oh and having it on a lift was nice too.
It was driveable. See my other post. Front drive shaft doesn't prevent the axle from still spinning.

If the axle decides to bind to a halt at highway speeds...well....

Worth $75 bucks.
 

Phil + Neela

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Kid's playset...rock solid since I buried 3' of each post. It made the swings higher than the kits you can buy nowadays and more like the deathtraps we used to jump off as kids.
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Looks great!


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Myke

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Received the tubing to make my rear 4 links. Went extra long so I can cut them down. 40" and 30" lengths of 2x0.25 DOM. Bottom frame side mounts are done. Need to get back under and figure out where I'm putting the upper mounts exactly. May just end up reusing the stock location but would like to get some more length on them. I can gain 5" or so by moving the axle side mount back as it doesn't sit over the center axle line.

Used the online 4 link calculator and that would put me at ~75% antisquat which is great. Stock is 100% antisquat so that would soften the ride up a bit.
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Aceofspades

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My OEM radiator was the culprit to the missing coolant. It had a hairline crack at the top driver side end. JB weld didn’t work. The stream is finer then a needle and must’ve cut right through it.
So rockauto has a mopar radiator. Checked with my dealer. It’s for the manual jeep.
Thanks RA for your awesome description and specifications. I would have been out of money on shipping. Can’t always trust the pictures which didn’t show the transmission cooler ports.
The part 52080118AB which they do have via a part number search but is not listed under my jeep.

Dealer part is $322.... but I worked out a deal so not too bad.
 
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Myke

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My OEM radiator was the culprit to the missing coolant. It had a hairline crack at the top driver side end. JB weld didn’t work. The stream is finer then a needle and must’ve cut right through it.
So rockauto has a mopar radiator. Checked with my dealer. It’s for the manual jeep.
Thanks RA for your awesome description and specifications. I would have been out of money on shipping. Can’t always trust the pictures which didn’t show the transmission cooler ports.
The part 52080118AB which they do have via a part number search but is not listed under my jeep.

Dealer part is $322.... but I worked out a deal so not too bad.
Oem is the way to go with radiators outside of paying a shop to make one for you.
 

Aceofspades

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I usually try to stick with mopar unless it’s gonna cost me 5x more then a similar item. This was a good deal I paid $245 picked up next day
 

nohitter64

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Had the brake fluid flushed and changed as well as the coolant. Apparently the coolant system is full of gunk; the drain was so clogged they spent some time clearing it out but ultimately got it to drain. They flushed it several times. Any input on how I should proceed? Maybe flush the coolant again soon? 4 months ago, I did notice that my heat was not as furnace hot as it typically is.

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GitEmSteveDave

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Got the radiator changed. So much nicer not worrying about the ever increasing leak,and hopefully this is the last repair that I will need besides odd jobs like peeling paint on my wipers and normal fluid changes.

Though, in feeling the lines, I don't think they put in the spring in one of the hoses. Is this a bad thing?
 

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