Transmission repair options

[t_j]

My trans bit the bullet last night, it all started with some light slipping under heavy load, then it got stuck in one gear which lasted 130 miles until I was forced to stop for gas. After the stop i couldn't get it to go back into the same gear it was cruising in and had to call for a tow.

Read the codes this morning and I have:

P0846 - B pressure
P0732 - 2nd gear ratio
P0733 - 3rd gear ratio
P0734 - 4th gear ratio

I pulled the trans dip stick while it was still warm and it smelt of burning oil.

As far as I can tell I have 4 (5 if you count the stealership) options:

* Take it to the local trans shop and have it rebuilt ($2800)
* Buy a used trans ($500-1000)
* Buy a remanufactured unit (probably similar $$ to a rebuild)
* Buy a rebuild kit and do it myself ($200-600)

At the moment I'm leaning towards a low milage trans and fitting it myself. Any one have input on this?

As I use the jeep for towing my trailer and race bike, 2000-2500lbs v nose enclosed trailer that is the same width as the jeep but a little taller (44^2ft nose surface if the v was flat. I was thinking that I should add the mechanical cooling fan, anyone know what parts are required for this? Another option I have is that radiator was replaced 5k miles ago and the replacement has the built in trans cooler core, should I hook this up in series with the cooler in front of the radiator?

 

[dude1116]

Hmm. What color was the fluid? First thing's first: check the cheap stuff. Make sure you didn't lose your valve body side plate. I think that can cause loss of upper gears, but I'm not sure the behavior you're trans showed is characteristic of that (especially since you said the fluid smelt burnt). Still though, it's a really cheap repair and best to check for that first.

I went with a used trans when I did mine. To be honest, I was skeptical. Installed by a shop it was $1,400 with 39k miles on it. Last week I was driving and it ended up stuck in second and throwing me a P0700 (I never checked the trans computer yet since I don't have a scanner). I've only put 20k miles on it. I'm not sure if it was a serious problem because it acts and shifts normal, quickly, and relatively (only saying this because the 42RLE is clunky) smoothly. Just something I need to figure out.

 

[t_j]

Hmm. What color was the fluid?

It was a red/orange color on the dip stick, it had a flush less that 20k miles ago.

First thing's first: check the cheap stuff. Make sure you didn't lose your valve body side plate. I think that can cause loss of upper gears, but I'm not sure the behavior you're trans showed is characteristic of that (especially since you said the fluid smelt burnt). Still though, it's a really cheap repair and best to check for that first.

To do this I just drop the pan right?

 

[dude1116]

To do this I just drop the pan right?

I believe so. I think a few other people on here have done this. I never checked mine because mine was only slipping one gear and the CVIs were way out of range (when my transmission guy pulled it apart they were burnt up). Another thing you can do while you're down there is check for metal shavings (meaning clutch failures).

 

[04Liberty]

What year?

 

[dude1116]

What year?

Doh. I had been assuming a 42RLE model year. :icon_rolleyes:

 

[Leeann]

I just replaced my 42RLE in my backyard. $300 for a used trans on eBay shipped to my door with a small warranty, another $150 for fluid and sensors and cleaner cans.

I do have a ****** jack, but the trans isn't that big or heavy. I am planning on rebuilding mine to have ready in case the used one takes a dump and already have the rebuild kit and specialty tools, but the used one is running strong 5 weeks later (knock on wood).

Definitely clean out your existing cooler with trans flush cans. Definitely add your radiator cooler in series with the external cooler.

Oh, and if you're in DC, I might be able to bring said ****** jack and come add a pair of hands if needed (I'm near Annapolis).

 

[t_j]

What year?

03 Model year 02 manufacture.

 

[dude1116]

03 Model year 02 manufacture.

Whoop. You have a 45RFE. Ignore all I said because I know nothing about that transmission. Same principles may apply though.

 

[04Liberty]

Sounds like your OD clutches are gone. Did it keep popping out and revving up? If you press the button to take it out of OD, will it drive semi-normal? Cool thing about a 45RFE, you can find them almost anywhere since they were used in damn near every truck with a 4.7 or 5.7 (Grand Cherokee, Durango, Dakota, Ram).

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

As I use the jeep for towing my trailer and race bike, 2000-2500lbs v nose enclosed trailer that is the same width as the jeep but a little taller (44^2ft nose surface if the v was flat. I was thinking that I should add the mechanical cooling fan, anyone know what parts are required for this? Another option I have is that radiator was replaced 5k miles ago and the replacement has the built in trans cooler core, should I hook this up in series with the cooler in front of the radiator?

Quick answer on the ******: Go w/ a low-mileage used one. Hopefully you can find a 45RFE - that's what it sounds like you need given the year/manufacture date of your Libby. Count the number of bolts on the trans pan; 13 bolts a 42RLE, 15 bolts 45RFE.

As for the HD cooling setup...Read through this thread to get part numbers, etc. for the HD shroud, fan clutch and mechanical fan. Should get you going on the mod. It also shows how I plumbed in the in-radiator trans cooler in-line with the stock standalone cooler. Put the in-rad cooler first, then out to the standalone, then back to the ******. Works like a charm.

Bob

 

[t_j]

Whoop. You have a 45RFE. Ignore all I said because I know nothing about that transmission. Same principles may apply though.

I only have a RWD not a 4x4 so it has the 42RLE unfortunately (phone the dealership to check).

Sounds like your OD clutches are gone. Did it keep popping out and revving up? If you press the button to take it out of OD, will it drive semi-normal? Cool thing about a 45RFE, you can find them almost anywhere since they were used in damn near every truck with a 4.7 or 5.7 (Grand Cherokee, Durango, Dakota, Ram).

It wasn't in OD when it happened but sounds similar, while on the gas it would seem as if the clutch would slip (or at least thats what the cause would be on a manual) then re-engage and at other points it was shifting up and down a lot even out of OD, after which i dropped it back into 2 and it seemed happy.

Quick answer on the ******: Go w/ a low-mileage used one. Hopefully you can find a 45RFE - that's what it sounds like you need given the year/manufacture date of your Libby. Count the number of bolts on the trans pan; 13 bolts a 42RLE, 15 bolts 45RFE.


As for the HD cooling setup...Read through this thread to get part numbers, etc. for the HD shroud, fan clutch and mechanical fan. Should get you going on the mod. It also shows how I plumbed in the in-radiator trans cooler in-line with the stock standalone cooler. Put the in-rad cooler first, then out to the standalone, then back to the ******. Works like a charm.

Bob

Thanks for this, I'll draw up a parts list and probably take a trip to the local pick a part place before I order these new, just incase they have them.


As for the trans, I think a low milage one, I've spotted a couple with less that 20k miles on them, seems like a common transmission as from what I can tell it also went in the Durango and Dakota (in at least 2004).

 

[04Liberty]

Really? They said you have an RLE?

 

[t_j]

Really? They said you have an RLE?

Yep but i'm gonna go check the bolt pattern to make sure.

 

[dude1116]

Yep but i'm gonna go check the bolt pattern to make sure.

That, or the cats will be vertical and the crossmember slightly bent I believe. Might need someone else to confirm this.

 

[rockymountain]

42rle has a straight crossmember and the 45 has an angled one. really easy to tell.

 

[JeepCoMJ]

You might have a 42 instead of a 45 just based off of the fact that it is an 03 model year. they stopped using 45rfe's after the 7th to 9th month of 2002 production.

2wd vs 4wd has nothing to do with which trans you've got. I have a great working 2wd 45rfe sitting here that I'm holding on to because they are identical to 4wd, the only thing you have to swap is the output housing, and pan if you care to (2wd pan holds more, ironically).

 

[TheBlueKJ]

You might have a 42 instead of a 45 just based off of the fact that it is an 03 model year. they stopped using 45rfe's after the 7th to 9th month of 2002 production.

2wd vs 4wd has nothing to do with which trans you've got. I have a great working 2wd 45rfe sitting here that I'm holding on to because they are identical to 4wd, the only thing you have to swap is the output housing, and pan if you care to (2wd pan holds more, ironically).

And thankfully I have one of the few 03 KJs with a 45RFE. And that is rather ironic that the 2WD holds more than the 4WD

 

[t_j]

Finally got the replacement trans in Friday/Saturday, after having to loosen it all off again and install the TC properly p:.

Now I'm just driving it around gently to build some confidence in my work, but I have noticed that the down shift from 2 to 1 is very hard. I've been reading the service manual and there is a learn procedure, is there anyway to cause quick learn without the dealers diagnostic tools. I also noted that there was a learn procedure for each of the shift sequences but this is related only to the RFE not the RLE.

Also when setting the hot fluid level how long does one need to drive for before the fluid is considered at normal operating temp?

Thanks

 

[Leeann]

Once the coolant is at operating temp and you've driven at least 2 miles (I try to do 5), you're warm enough for hot.

I haven't noticed a hard 2 to 1 downshift. It could just be that trans.

Nope, the Quick Learn has to be done with a capable scan tool. Dealers have the DRB II, good shops have the Snap-On Modis and a couple others, all capable of performing a Chrysler Quick Learn procedure.