transfer case plug replacement

[Sephiroth]

Those threads look pretty gnarled up.

The threads look like that because I tried to get the plug off the extractor with some vise grips with no luck.

 

[uss2defiant]

Yes, the shop where I used to get my winter oil changes done completely ruined the plug. My first try was actually trying to hammer in a torx bit (Do not remember what size) but all that did was round the threads even more. Would a scissor jack work? may be, if you lift the jeep you might even be able to use a breaker bar, I used the jack because my breaker bar is a little too long and at 120# I am not strong at all to fight with that plug.

I put the new one in with some teflon tape and a few months later it came out without any trouble.

Good luck.

Thanks.
I hope I can get the sucker out.

Kinda worried the extractor will break. If it does, then I'm really SOL.

 

[Sephiroth]

Thanks.
I hope I can get the sucker out.

Kinda worried the extractor will break. If it does, then I'm really SOL.

The one I used seems to be really good quality. I have seen smaller kits at my local autoparts store, if that helps.

 

[uss2defiant]

Anyone have any experience with CRC freeze off or loctite free & release?

I think I'm going to try that.

I tried the 10 mm hex w/ a 3/8 wrench + scissor jack, didn't work.
Lost my pb blaster, I think I left it outside and someone jacked it.

 

[CactusJacked]

Yes, don't waste your money on Freeze Off. It's never worked for me, you can have my can. lol
Did you try getting it a wee bit toasty with a blow torch? That's what did work for mine.

 

[uss2defiant]

no I have not tried that.
I'm planning to retry to opposite as suggested by tjkj.
get the TF case up to operating temp, freeze the plug, pb blast it, freeze, try the scissor technique.

if that doesn't work, I buy a propane torch and heat it up.
Did you still need to use a breaker bar after you applied heat?

unfortunately, I'll be switching the jeep with my mom in laws town and country for the next month so wont be trying it till then.
going to miss the jeep. I finally got all her fluids change exchange the stupid TF case.

 

[flair1111]

Yep. I already have that video bookmarked! However, I think he only had teflon tape on the drain plug.
Also have his diff. gear oil change youtube vid bookmarked too!
Pulling out the orange was funny.

id have to go back and look at the vids, but i know i NOW put the tape on the plug for the front axle. just makes sense. ty for watching!

 

[CactusJacked]

if that doesn't work, I buy a propane torch and heat it up.
Did you still need to use a breaker bar after you applied heat?

Still used a breaker bar, would rather have the plug break free than a knuckle. Didn't need a pipe "extension" though.

 

[uss2defiant]

id have to go back and look at the vids, but i know i NOW put the tape on the plug for the front axle. just makes sense. ty for watching!

Looks like you replied to the wrong thread but speaking of which, need threas sealant for the drain and fill plugs for the front axle?

I just finished up my front and rear without any anti seize or thread sealant. :O
I should be ok right?? Fml

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk

 

[LibertyTC]

Brian, most would use plumber's tape or a sniff of anit-seize.
As long as you did not over tighten, you should be fine. Mine don't leak without tape.
As far as Steve's front plug is concerned...where this is a will... there is a way....
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I think Jayme would even agree, this may not be the best way! :icon_lol:

 

[uss2defiant]

hahhaha.
well I'll be visiting my jeep on the way up to vegas so I'll untorque them and hand tighten the plugs in the front. I followed the torque specifications on the FSM.

are the differential housing for the front and rear both aluminum or steel?
I know the rear cover is steel.

 

[LibertyTC]

They are aluminum, we could only wish they came from factory in steel.
The rear diff is steel and cover is stamped steel, until you put a cast iron cover on.

 

[uss2defiant]

They are aluminum, we could only wish they came from factory in steel.
The rear diff is steel and cover is stamped steel, until you put a cast iron cover on.

so front housing is aluminum and rear is steel?

 

[profdlp]

If you drive over a stump, make sure you're in reverse.

 

[uss2defiant]

$100 later

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Fin

Any ideas on making a souvenir out of it?

 

[M38 Bob]

I'm tempted to say I've removed hundreds, but a couple dozen over the past 30 years is probably much more accurate. Favorite method is to take a slightly oversize bolt and grind hex flats to fit the stripped hole as close as possible, then stick/hammer it in and weld the hell out of it. Let it cool till plug and new bolt head aren't red anymore, then take whatever size wrench, socket, etc. fits the bolt's head and simply turn it out. Has NEVER failed.

Bob

EDIT; Also, I've never charged a customer more than 20 bucks for this 10 minute endeavor. And the "new and improved" plug can continue in use and will last as long as the rest of the vehicle.

 

[LibertyTC]

so front housing is aluminum and rear is steel?

Yes only the rear is steel.
That's why having good skid plates helps.
I am very careful and going slow when crawling over in 4x4 as I know spinning the front tires and coming down hard can mean a bad day or cracked aluminum case. :whip: