Synthetic Waxes vs. Carnauba Waxes

HoosierJeeper

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Been doing some research on the topic, and thought I'd share my results.
Carnauba wax pros:
More of a warm, glossy, deep liquid look.
Protects better against heat, humidity, and elements.
Allows paint to breathe, so it lasts longer.
Cons:
Doesn't last as long.

Synthetic Pros:
Easier to apply
Lasts way longer
More of a hard, glass look to it.
Cons:
Doesn't allow paint to breathe
Doesn't make it look any better.

Full article:
http://www.concordautospa.com/page12.html
 

tommudd

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So which do you use most?:confused:
I'm trying to figure out what kind to take over to wax my wife's Toyota. Lots of sunny rather "warm" days in Tanzania so need a good wax that will hold up a long time. After this it will not be waxed until I go back in 6 or 8 months, I know she will never do it. :D
I will of course clay bar it first, then start the wax process.
 

HoosierJeeper

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If she isn't going to wax it, go with a synthetic. Better for longer intervals. Another option would be to use a Carnauba, then let cure and top with a sealant.


I use Carnauba, but then I try to wax every 3-4 months.
 

67Customs

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Been doing some research on the topic, and thought I'd share my results.
Carnauba wax pros:
More of a warm, glossy, deep liquid look.
Protects better against heat, humidity, and elements.
Allows paint to breathe, so it lasts longer.
Cons:
Doesn't last as long.

Synthetic Pros:
Easier to apply
Lasts way longer
More of a hard, glass look to it.
Cons:
Doesn't allow paint to breathe
Doesn't make it look any better.
I mostly agree.

In my personal experience and research, synthetics are better for high heat, humidity and elements protection. The carnuba breaks down quicker in the heat and wont last as long. Some synthetics "self-clean" while carnubas attract more dust.

Also, I would definitely (and respectfully) disagree with the Con for synthetics that they don't allow paint to breathe or that it doesn't make paint look any better. Modern paint doesn't need to breath. Once it outgasses during the heat application in the painting process, that is it. All the "breathing" that needs to be done is done. I've had a sealant on all of my vehicles since they were purchased and never had the paint suffered any.

My take...
Carnuba Wax (Wax)
Made with a percentage of wax produced from the Brazilian Tree of Life.
Great for darker colors and solid paints.
Pros:
Rich, warm glow, deep wet look.
Makes solid colors, especially dark ones, look awesome.
Can be added on top of glazes or sealants.
Cons:
Doesn't last as long.
Sometimes mutes flakes in metallic paint.
Breaks down quicker in heat and humidity.

Synthetic Wax (Sealant)
Made made with polymers.
Great for lighter colors and metallic paints.
Pros:
Last longer.
Generally easier to apply and remove.
Adds gloss and slickness. Great for reflections.
Makes flakes in metallic paint pop.
Cons:
Doesn't produce that warm glow on dark colors.
Needs a very clean surface to apply it to. Wont bond well to the paint otherwise.

So which do you use most?:confused:
I'm trying to figure out what kind to take over to wax my wife's Toyota. Lots of sunny rather "warm" days in Tanzania so need a good wax that will hold up a long time. After this it will not be waxed until I go back in 6 or 8 months, I know she will never do it. :D
I will of course clay bar it first, then start the wax process.
Tom,

If it were me going out and buying a "wax" for your wife's car, I would go to CarQuest (if you have one near) and grab some Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish. It will do everything you need it to do. Also, grab some #601 Polish Bonding Agent. It is like a pre-wax cleaner. BTW, Duragloss calls their sealants polishes. They aren't actually polishes. I think it will do you very well. Best sealant for the money.
 
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67Customs

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Also, I believe this may help. Here is an article I wrote on another forum. I hope this answer some questions...

67Customs said:
People post all the time asking what wax we recommend or especially, what is the best wax. Well, there isn't a “best wax”. There are many good waxes that fit different situations. There are also sealants. They generally apply the same as waxes, but serve different purposes.
So, what type of wax/sealant do you need to look for?

First, you need to know the differences between waxes and a sealants. For an excellent article on their differences, check the Carnuba Wax vs. Paint Sealants article over at Autogeek.net.

Now that you know the differences, you have to decide which one is for you. If you like waxing your vehicle once every other month, a wax is a great option. If you would prefer to only wax your vehicle twice a year, a sealant is what you need. However, you also have to think about the color of your vehicle. Is it a dark vehicle? Metallic flakes? Do you want a deep, wet shine or a nice reflective shine that makes the flakes pop?

Well, waxes generally provide a deeper, wetter shine or warmer glow than do sealants. So, if you have a dark vehicle and want that depth, you need a good wax. If you have a light vehicle or one with flakes, sealants generally provide a pop that a wax may mute.

Another problem with looking for a good wax or sealant is that some of them are labeled wrong. For example, Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0. This is not a wax. It is a sealant. You have to read the label to start getting a good feel for what the product actually is. A lot of waxes will contain the word carnuba somewhere on the label. Also, there are some that label their sealants as polish. For example, Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish. This is not a polish. It is a sealant. Mislabeling is a very common practice in the detailing world. The best thing to do is know what service each provides and how it is made and you can get a good feel for what you are looking at when you read the label.

One thing to note about waxes is that there are a lot of waxes that you can buy over the counter (OTC) that are cleaner waxes. They contain cleaners in the wax that help clean the paint as you wax. Generally, these don't do much more than stain your trim and only last a couple of weeks. The best thing to do is to try and buy a pure carnuba wax or sealant and use a designated paint cleaner before applying either of them.

Liquid or Paste? Some waxes and sealants come in liquid or paste versions. Most waxes come in paste version, but some have liquid versions. Mos sealants come in liquid versions, but some have paste versions. For the most part, it is better to get a paste if possible. The additives that are required to get a wax in liquid version hamper it's longevity a little. Sometimes pastes have a higher carnuba content than their liquid versions. However, it is mostly up to you. Some people like the ease of use of a liquid and some people like that old fashioned feeling of using a paste. It is all up to you.

Finally, what if you want the best of both worlds. Well, a very common practice in the detailing world is to top a sealant with a wax. You get th longevity of a sealant but the depth of a wax. However, you have to remember that this may not be the best practice. If you have a vehicle with flakes, you may just want to coat it with a sealant and leave it alone. It is all in what you want.

So, now that you know that there is no "best wax" and you have a decent grasp on what wax/sealant to choose, you still want to know what we (as a forum) prefer.

A lot of people want to buy locally. So, what is good locally?
General recommendations for OTC purchases:
Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0 - One of the longer lasting sealants you can find OTC. Really easy to apply and easy to remove. The most common problem is applying a thick layer. This will cause streaking upon removal. This sealant can be found just about anywhere. Can be found in liquid or paste versions.
Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Carnuba Wax - This wax is one of the best looking waxes that you can find not only OTC, but anywhere. I have seen it on darker colors beside waxes costing ten times as much and the #26 looked just as good. It comes in liquid and paste versions.
Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish - Not only is this one of the longer lasting OTC sealants, but it hangs pretty well with the more expensive online sealants. Easy to apply and very easy to remove. It is a great looking sealant on a large variety of colors.

The following link is a very helpful thread that captures some of the more popular waxes and sealants for a range of prices...
Best Waxes & Sealants at Different Prices

In this thread, people can post the waxes that they prefer and why. This way, we can try to eliminate the need for all of those "The Best Wax" threads we all love to hate that everyone gives their opinion in.

No product arguing. Just post your favorites and the OTC you recommend. If you have a question or beef, please IM the poster.

Things you want to include in your description:
The brand and the name.
Where it was purchased.
Price.
What color car you use it on.
How you apply it. (Machine, hand, foam applicator, etc…)
Pros.
Cons.

Mine...

Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish (sealant)
CarQuest
$9.99
I like it on light colors and anything with flakes. I also use it as a base for waxes on dark colors even though it looks pretty good as is on dark colors.
I apply it by hand with a foam applicator.
Pros: I like #105 because it is easy to put on and remove. It also looks great on any color, makes the vehicle really shine and it is one of the longer lasting sealants. I also like it because it can be purchased locally if you have a CarQuest around.
Cons: I haven't found anything to dislike about #105.

Collinite 476s (wax)
AutoGeek.net or Harbor Freight
$14.99 (AG) or ~$10,00 (HF)
I use it on any color, but it looks better on darker cars. It somewhat mutes flakes unlike #105 does.
I apply it by hand with a foam applicator.
Pros: I like 476s because it has to be the most durable carnuba based wax I have ever used. Even through the heat of summer and salty winters, I find my car still beading over and over. It also leaves a great shine and the carnuba in it adds to the depth of darker colors. It is also detergent proof. It really doesn't get removed with washes like other waxes. I tried to wash 476s out of a foam applicator with a high concentration of Dawn and it just wouldn't come all the way out. It really amazed me. I know have a designated foam applicator for 476s.
Cons: The only set-back to it is that it is a little more finicky to remove unless you apply it really thinly. It has a paint can type top that needs a tool to open.

Duragloss #951 Aqua Wax (spray sealant)
CarQuest
~$7.00
It makes any color shine, but it REALLY wets darker colors.
It is a spray wax so I spray it on the car and wipe it dry with a microfiber.
Pros: It is a cheap, awesome looking, completely easy to use wax. It lasts longer than most other OTC waxes/sealants I have tried and looks much better. It gets even deeper the day after application. This is a must have for anyone that likes adding quick coats of wax. I mostly apply it to my wife's car and even after a couple of weeks of washing, it still maintains its initial wetness and slickness.
Cons: None.

Pinnacle Souveran Paste (wax)
Autogeek.net
~$85 (BOGO special. I sold the other.lol)
Dark and light colors without flakes.
I apply it with a foam applicator.
Pros: Probably the best wax I have ever used. Extremely deep shine on darker colors and a nice warm shine on light colors. It can't be any easier to apply and remove a wax than this one. Smells AWESOME!
Cons: A little pricey if not purchased on sale and mutes flakes.

Klasse Sealant Glaze (sealant)
Autogeek.net
$19.99
Light colors.
I apply it with a foam applicator.
Pros: Longest lasting sealant or wax that I have ever tested. Bullet proof almost.
Cons: Sometimes hard to remove even when applied thinly. Since you have to apply it so thinly, it generally takes two coats to get good coverage.

P21s Concours Carnuba Wax (wax)
Autogeek.net
$33.99
Any color.
I apply it with the included applicator.
Pros: Looks good on every color I have ever tried it on. Cheaper than other boutique waxes but looks just as good. Easy to apply and remove. Adds a warmth to flakes without muting them. Has a great, soft applicator pad to work with included.
Cons: Doesn't smell that great.
 
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jnaut

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HJ, do you really think it was wise to start a new thread on Synthetic vs. Traditional anything?
 

desertkj

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I agree for the most part. However, I prefer the look of synthetic. I've used Meguiars and a Pinnacle carnuba. Both seemed to have a duller look to me than Zaino, Pinnacle or NXT synthetics. I always use a claybar first and use a Portercable with the Lake Country foam pads.
 

SurfGuitar141

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It's funny how you may think you know a lot about a certain subject, only to discover your knowledge on the subject is marginal at best.
Been detailing fire apparatus for 25 years, OTC products, and professional detailing products from Ardex, some things were easier to use but didn't last very long, some things were hard to use and didn't last much longer than the easy stuff. Paste wax, liquid wax, swirl & scratch removers, polish, compounds, clear coat safe / not clear coat safe......:confused:

Reading this thread and the associated links has enlightened me to several aspects of this subject I was previously naive about, mainly the difference between a true wax, and a sealant. Seems most of the car finish products I've been using on my Jeep have actually been sealants. Lately I've been using Collinite's #126 Super Sapphire Liquid wax, which if I'm not mistaken is actually a sealant and not a true carnuba wax product.

I've been a long time fan of Collinite products because out of everything else I've tried, they just seem to last longer. Living on a Peninsula surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, the air is heavy with salt, it's always humid, and the summers get pretty hot, if you don't keep a good coat of some type of protectant on your paint, it'll look like crap in short order. Between the sea gulls, and hard water spotting that will etch glass, I believe I'm using the right product as protection is more important here than a slightly deeper shine.

While at the hardware store this morning, I picked up a can of the Collinite's 476s paste wax, and will be giving that a try real soon. Not having a garage I can use is also a deciding factor for me to stick with sealants, and not go with a pure carnuba wax. Although I can on occasion use the fire station, it's not always an option, and since when I'am there I'm on duty, I could get called out at any moment having to leave whatever I applied, on the paint for several hours, making it's removal very difficult....

Thanks for the info here....Mucho Grassyass.....
 

ptsb5a

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I caved, bought some Meguiar's ultimate coumpound. When the Jeep feels the need to get a bath, I'll break out the buffer and see how it goes.

To much reading about waxes and sealants has made my head hurt.
 

SurfGuitar141

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My latest effort went like this.....

Just before sunset last night I washed and towel dried the Jeep. This morning it had some morning dew on the roof & hood, so I towel dried that off, then waxed with the Collinite's #126 Liquid Sapphire. Had a few errands to run, picked up a can of the Collinite's 476s paste wax while at the hardware store. About an hour ago it clouded up pretty good, so I ran outside, broke out the 476s, and re-waxed the hood with it.
Even with the solid overcast, it was hard work rubbing it off once dried, definitely work for the electric polisher and a lambs wool bonnet, solid shade, or better yet inside.
With a fresh coat of the #126 already on there, it's hard to actually see an improvement in the quality of the shine, but comparing it to other areas of the Jeep, I was able to see the shine did appear to be slightly deeper, and wetter looking.
Since both the hood and roof take the worse beating from the sun and elements, I'm hoping to re-wax the roof inside the fire house while on duty tomorrow......

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cplchris

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ive used a few turtle wax products, (gotta get rid of em some how) but will soon be doing a full detail and applying klasse high gloss sealant by machine (7424xp) with lake country red sealant pads.....hoping for great results
 

67Customs

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You all need to give Fukken Wax a try! :D
Well, send me a sample and I'll give it a shot.

I'll do a good write-up about it.

I'll be sure to wash, clay, polish and clean the surface before applying it per the instructions.
 

67Customs

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Found this shot while going back through one of my older write-ups on a six way wax/sealant test I did.

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That section on the left (the hood hump) is coated with Collinite 476s. A really long lasting wax. It serves somewhat of a dual purpose. It has the looks of a wax, but the durability of a sealant.
 

0212353

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I wish we had "sample" sizes of the product to shoot out. The problem comes in with cost of manufacturing a smaller aerosol can - which tends to cost the same as the large ones. Crazy!

Order up some Fukken! If you aren't 100% satisfied, take us up on our guarantee! (I'll say this - I've never had a customer of mine return their wax). :D
 

seals07

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hi there
Is anyone know how can i found the fault on the Ambient air temperature sensor on my 04 jeep liberty
 
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