Synthetic Waxes vs. Carnauba Waxes

Discussion in 'Detailing How To's/FAQ's' started by HoosierJeeper, Jun 27, 2010.

  1. HoosierJeeper

    HoosierJeeper Gold Supporter/Admin Staff Member Administrator

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    Been doing some research on the topic, and thought I'd share my results.
    Carnauba wax pros:
    More of a warm, glossy, deep liquid look.
    Protects better against heat, humidity, and elements.
    Allows paint to breathe, so it lasts longer.
    Cons:
    Doesn't last as long.

    Synthetic Pros:
    Easier to apply
    Lasts way longer
    More of a hard, glass look to it.
    Cons:
    Doesn't allow paint to breathe
    Doesn't make it look any better.

    Full article:
    http://www.concordautospa.com/page12.html
     
  2. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    So which do you use most?:confused:
    I'm trying to figure out what kind to take over to wax my wife's Toyota. Lots of sunny rather "warm" days in Tanzania so need a good wax that will hold up a long time. After this it will not be waxed until I go back in 6 or 8 months, I know she will never do it. :D
    I will of course clay bar it first, then start the wax process.
     
  3. HoosierJeeper

    HoosierJeeper Gold Supporter/Admin Staff Member Administrator

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    If she isn't going to wax it, go with a synthetic. Better for longer intervals. Another option would be to use a Carnauba, then let cure and top with a sealant.


    I use Carnauba, but then I try to wax every 3-4 months.
     
  4. 67Customs

    67Customs Full Access Member

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    I mostly agree.

    In my personal experience and research, synthetics are better for high heat, humidity and elements protection. The carnuba breaks down quicker in the heat and wont last as long. Some synthetics "self-clean" while carnubas attract more dust.

    Also, I would definitely (and respectfully) disagree with the Con for synthetics that they don't allow paint to breathe or that it doesn't make paint look any better. Modern paint doesn't need to breath. Once it outgasses during the heat application in the painting process, that is it. All the "breathing" that needs to be done is done. I've had a sealant on all of my vehicles since they were purchased and never had the paint suffered any.

    My take...
    Carnuba Wax (Wax)
    Made with a percentage of wax produced from the Brazilian Tree of Life.
    Great for darker colors and solid paints.
    Pros:
    Rich, warm glow, deep wet look.
    Makes solid colors, especially dark ones, look awesome.
    Can be added on top of glazes or sealants.
    Cons:
    Doesn't last as long.
    Sometimes mutes flakes in metallic paint.
    Breaks down quicker in heat and humidity.

    Synthetic Wax (Sealant)
    Made made with polymers.
    Great for lighter colors and metallic paints.
    Pros:
    Last longer.
    Generally easier to apply and remove.
    Adds gloss and slickness. Great for reflections.
    Makes flakes in metallic paint pop.
    Cons:
    Doesn't produce that warm glow on dark colors.
    Needs a very clean surface to apply it to. Wont bond well to the paint otherwise.

    Tom,

    If it were me going out and buying a "wax" for your wife's car, I would go to CarQuest (if you have one near) and grab some Duragloss #105 Total Performance Polish. It will do everything you need it to do. Also, grab some #601 Polish Bonding Agent. It is like a pre-wax cleaner. BTW, Duragloss calls their sealants polishes. They aren't actually polishes. I think it will do you very well. Best sealant for the money.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2010
  5. 67Customs

    67Customs Full Access Member

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    Also, I believe this may help. Here is an article I wrote on another forum. I hope this answer some questions...

     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2010
  6. darksun

    darksun Full Access Member

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    so.....turtle wax is out then? :)
     
  7. HoosierJeeper

    HoosierJeeper Gold Supporter/Admin Staff Member Administrator

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    Yeah.
     
  8. jnaut

    jnaut Full Access Member

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    HJ, do you really think it was wise to start a new thread on Synthetic vs. Traditional anything?
     
  9. HoosierJeeper

    HoosierJeeper Gold Supporter/Admin Staff Member Administrator

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    Yeah.
     
  10. desertkj

    desertkj Full Access Member

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    I agree for the most part. However, I prefer the look of synthetic. I've used Meguiars and a Pinnacle carnuba. Both seemed to have a duller look to me than Zaino, Pinnacle or NXT synthetics. I always use a claybar first and use a Portercable with the Lake Country foam pads.
     
  11. SurfGuitar141

    SurfGuitar141 Full Access Member

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    It's funny how you may think you know a lot about a certain subject, only to discover your knowledge on the subject is marginal at best.
    Been detailing fire apparatus for 25 years, OTC products, and professional detailing products from Ardex, some things were easier to use but didn't last very long, some things were hard to use and didn't last much longer than the easy stuff. Paste wax, liquid wax, swirl & scratch removers, polish, compounds, clear coat safe / not clear coat safe......:confused:

    Reading this thread and the associated links has enlightened me to several aspects of this subject I was previously naive about, mainly the difference between a true wax, and a sealant. Seems most of the car finish products I've been using on my Jeep have actually been sealants. Lately I've been using Collinite's #126 Super Sapphire Liquid wax, which if I'm not mistaken is actually a sealant and not a true carnuba wax product.

    I've been a long time fan of Collinite products because out of everything else I've tried, they just seem to last longer. Living on a Peninsula surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, the air is heavy with salt, it's always humid, and the summers get pretty hot, if you don't keep a good coat of some type of protectant on your paint, it'll look like crap in short order. Between the sea gulls, and hard water spotting that will etch glass, I believe I'm using the right product as protection is more important here than a slightly deeper shine.

    While at the hardware store this morning, I picked up a can of the Collinite's 476s paste wax, and will be giving that a try real soon. Not having a garage I can use is also a deciding factor for me to stick with sealants, and not go with a pure carnuba wax. Although I can on occasion use the fire station, it's not always an option, and since when I'am there I'm on duty, I could get called out at any moment having to leave whatever I applied, on the paint for several hours, making it's removal very difficult....

    Thanks for the info here....Mucho Grassyass.....
     
  12. ptsb5a

    ptsb5a Full Access Member

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    I caved, bought some Meguiar's ultimate coumpound. When the Jeep feels the need to get a bath, I'll break out the buffer and see how it goes.

    To much reading about waxes and sealants has made my head hurt.
     
  13. SurfGuitar141

    SurfGuitar141 Full Access Member

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    My latest effort went like this.....

    Just before sunset last night I washed and towel dried the Jeep. This morning it had some morning dew on the roof & hood, so I towel dried that off, then waxed with the Collinite's #126 Liquid Sapphire. Had a few errands to run, picked up a can of the Collinite's 476s paste wax while at the hardware store. About an hour ago it clouded up pretty good, so I ran outside, broke out the 476s, and re-waxed the hood with it.
    Even with the solid overcast, it was hard work rubbing it off once dried, definitely work for the electric polisher and a lambs wool bonnet, solid shade, or better yet inside.
    With a fresh coat of the #126 already on there, it's hard to actually see an improvement in the quality of the shine, but comparing it to other areas of the Jeep, I was able to see the shine did appear to be slightly deeper, and wetter looking.
    Since both the hood and roof take the worse beating from the sun and elements, I'm hoping to re-wax the roof inside the fire house while on duty tomorrow......

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. cplchris

    cplchris Full Access Member

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    ive used a few turtle wax products, (gotta get rid of em some how) but will soon be doing a full detail and applying klasse high gloss sealant by machine (7424xp) with lake country red sealant pads.....hoping for great results
     
  15. 67Customs

    67Customs Full Access Member

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    I love Klasse Sealant Glaze. Good stuff.
     
  16. 0212353

    0212353 Full Access Member

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    You all need to give Fukken Wax a try! :D
     
  17. 67Customs

    67Customs Full Access Member

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    Well, send me a sample and I'll give it a shot.

    I'll do a good write-up about it.

    I'll be sure to wash, clay, polish and clean the surface before applying it per the instructions.
     
  18. 67Customs

    67Customs Full Access Member

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    Found this shot while going back through one of my older write-ups on a six way wax/sealant test I did.

    [​IMG]

    That section on the left (the hood hump) is coated with Collinite 476s. A really long lasting wax. It serves somewhat of a dual purpose. It has the looks of a wax, but the durability of a sealant.
     
  19. 0212353

    0212353 Full Access Member

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    I wish we had "sample" sizes of the product to shoot out. The problem comes in with cost of manufacturing a smaller aerosol can - which tends to cost the same as the large ones. Crazy!

    Order up some Fukken! If you aren't 100% satisfied, take us up on our guarantee! (I'll say this - I've never had a customer of mine return their wax). :D
     
  20. seals07

    seals07 New Member

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    hi there
    Is anyone know how can i found the fault on the Ambient air temperature sensor on my 04 jeep liberty