Rusty's Lift and Alignment

[jtaylor42]

Hello everyone, just installed Rusty's Coil Spring lift yesterday. I will post pics when the wheels and tires come in (Tuesday). What I am wondering is how many miles it is suggested to drive before re-tightening everything and getting an alignment. I have heard anywhere from 100-500. I would like to get the alignment done asap so I am driving the Jeep everywhere to rack up those miles. Also, do I need to take the airbox and battery back out to re-torque the top nuts for the strut? Or can I get away with just tightening everything else? Thanks for the help!!

 

[MoladoGuy]

Go for the alignment. It is also said that the lift will settle and the alignment may be slightly out. However, I went back to my alignment shop and told them that it still pulled. They did a free alignment since they guarantee the original one for 30 days.

Re torquing everything is a good idea. I still pulled my battery/air box to get to the top. That was just because it was a nice day out and I had some time on my hands. Got to clean up the battery crap off the battery contacts which I forgot to do the first time.

 

[jtaylor42]

Another question please. So I had purchased both conduit lock nuts for front and an extra spring isolator for rear to go with Rusty's lift. However, in installing I could not get rear axle to drop low enough to get extra isolator in, or get bottom of clevis onto lower control arm with the extra lock nuts in place. Therefore I left both off. I have since found some helpful info in doing this on LostKJs but want to see if anyone has found it effective. In both front and back it is suggested that sway bars be disconnected to allow more droop which I did not do. Has anyone else done this and will it give me enough room to get these in? I am putting on Cragar Soft 8's in 16x7 and Goodyear MT/R 245/75R16s on Tuesday and want to ensure I have no rubbing. I am thinking this extra lift will be necessary to ensure this. Thanks again in advance for advice!

 

[tjkj2002]

Another question please. So I had purchased both conduit lock nuts for front and an extra spring isolator for rear to go with Rusty's lift. However, in installing I could not get rear axle to drop low enough to get extra isolator in, or get bottom of clevis onto lower control arm with the extra lock nuts in place. Therefore I left both off. I have since found some helpful info in doing this on LostKJs but want to see if anyone has found it effective. In both front and back it is suggested that sway bars be disconnected to allow more droop which I did not do. Has anyone else done this and will it give me enough room to get these in? I am putting on Cragar Soft 8's in 16x7 and Goodyear MT/R 245/75R16s on Tuesday and want to ensure I have no rubbing. I am thinking this extra lift will be necessary to ensure this. Thanks again in advance for advice!

The rear is to easy,jack up the KJ and put the rear on stands(on the uni-body not axle),remove the rear wheels,remove rear sway bar,remove lower rear shock bolts,and then use the jack to jack up one side of the rear axle till you can remove the spring and put the isolator on.Repeat for other sie and reinstall everthing.As far as the front goes,when I did my clevis lift(3/8" custom spacers) I took the whole front end apart,it was easier for me to do it that way and way less of a pain in the rear to get apart and put back toghether.

 

[K Dje Ryu]

yep, disco'ing the sway bars definitely helps, especially on the front.

 

[sgoat]

Took my Liberty back to the installer (600 mi.) for the checkup (re-torque) and all is well. The coils have definately settled and looks to be closer to level then when first installed. I took it out on the highway last Sunday and the ride at interstate speeds is way better than before. The alignment was also checked and is spot-on. Again, money well spent.