Replace BOTH rear upper control arms?

[resipsa]

I just had my 03 at the mechanic for a full suspension inspection. It turns out the terrific squealing I've been getting with every little movement is a rotted out upper control arm in the back right. It needs to be replaced (he quoted me $450). The left side seems solid, but I'm at 144K miles. Should I just bite the bullet and replace both sides? Will doing so also improve rear handling?

And here's the question my wife doesn't want me to ask: Can I tackle this myself? I change all my own fluids, do my own brake jobs (including rotors), and replaced the rear CV joint on my front drive shaft.

Thanks!

 

[rockymountain]

There's only one UPPER control arm in the rear.

I suggest you get familiar with the rear suspension and tell your mechanic where to put it.

 

[tommudd]

Not hard to replace the rear tri link by yourself
two bolts in front and one on the rear ball joint. thats it
Get one from Mopar the cheaper ones are just that cheap and will go back out in a few thousand miles

 

[resipsa]

Thanks, Tom. I don't suppose you've seen a HOT TO on this project?

Not hard to replace the rear tri link by yourself
two bolts in front and one on the rear ball joint. thats it
Get one from Mopar the cheaper ones are just that cheap and will go back out in a few thousand miles

 

[rockymountain]

Thanks, Tom. I don't suppose you've seen a HOT TO on this project?

I'll be removing and re-installing mine this weekend.


EDIT
but I won't be taking any pictures or telling anyone how I did it.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Take a gander at your rear suspension. Above the rear differential is a boomerang-shaped arm. It's attached to the rear diff with one bolt and at the body end with one bolt on each side. So three bolts to remove and reinstall.

Easy to do yourself. Need to jack up the rear and put jack stands under the frame; use a floor jack to lift the rear axle. Unbolt the arm and remove it.

Couple options:
1) Replace the entire arm w/ one from Mopar, or
2) Buy two replacement bushings and the ball joint from NAPA, remove the control arm and take it and the bushings/ball joint to a local tire shop and have them press in the replacement parts, then reinstall the arm. Will cost you less than half what your misinformed mechanic wants to charge you.

To answer your wife's question: Sure you can do this yourself! With the money you'll save you can take her out to dinner...

Bob

 

[tommudd]

Thanks, Tom. I don't suppose you've seen a HOT TO on this project?

A How to??
Don't need one,
common sense
a couple of sockets
and done before you know it :happy175:

 

[Jo6pak]

Pick up a Clymer or Haynes manual for you KJ. It's the best $25 I've ever spent on a vehicle.

 

[first&lastKJ]

You can do it!

 

[resipsa]

Thank you to the people on this forum who take the time to give real advice in an honest and respectful way. It means a lot to those of us who don't already know everything.

 

[tommudd]

Thank you to the people on this forum who take the time to give real advice in an honest and respectful way. It means a lot to those of us who don't already know everything.

Its really very simple to swap one out, the reason for no write up needed
It is only two front bolts and the one on the ball joint
As soon as you roll under you will see what everyone means
No Haynes or manual needed
Plus they are pretty worthless except for the very simply things

 

[resipsa]

The crooks at my local Jeep dealership want $490 plus tax for the UCA, and the best prices I'm seeing online (for the Mopar part) are in the $320 range. Does anyone know of a better deal than that? Should I assume that the model sold at JeepinbyAl.com ($156.99) is an aftermarket brand, even though it shares the Mopar part number (52088901AD)? They do not identify the part's manufacturer.

 

[tjkj2002]

The crooks at my local Jeep dealership want $490 plus tax for the UCA, and the best prices I'm seeing online (for the Mopar part) are in the $320 range. Does anyone know of a better deal than that? Should I assume that the model sold at JeepinbyAl.com ($156.99) is an aftermarket brand, even though it shares the Mopar part number (52088901AD)? They do not identify the part's manufacturer.

Yeah I'd say it's not a actual OEM parts as whole sale price for that tri-link is still $250 for the actual OEM part.

 

[Snail Farmer]

It's really very easy to do. Tommudd told me not to get the one from Jeepinbyal, and he's got tons of experience, so I would take his word. But a couple pointers to help you out if you don't already know. There are actually 5 bolts.. One on each side at the front where the arm mounts to the body, one in the rear of the arm that attaches to the top of the diff and there are two in the back that just hold hangers for the parking brake cables. When reinstalling, make sure the suspension has the weight of the vehicle on it when torquing the two bolts in the front. If you decide to just replace the bushings and balljoint as opposed to the whole arm, definitely bring it to a shop that has a press if you don't have access to one yourself.

 

[resipsa]

Quick question re Mopar v. aftermarket. I've seen at least one thread with a discussion about how a lifted suspension puts added stress on the bushings, and that's why the aftermarket UCAs wear out more quickly the Mopar models.

My Jeep is a daily driver with a stock suspension (no lift). The only off-roading I do is comprised of driving on grassy parking areas when I take the family pumpkin or apple picking around this time of year. Most importantly, the part only needs to last (me) a year or so, as there is a firm plan in place to replace this KJ with a WK2 next summer. I would estimate that I'll be putting another 10K miles on this Jeep.

With that in mind, can I get away with an aftermarket UCA? The fact that they're 1/3 the price of Mopar makes them very enticing, indeed.

 

[Akedos]

The fact that they're 1/3 the price of Mopar makes them very enticing, indeed.

1/3 the price, 1/3 the quality? Pretty much. If you are concerned with price I'd just buy the bushings and have them pressed in.

 

[tjkj2002]

Quick question re Mopar v. aftermarket. I've seen at least one thread with a discussion about how a lifted suspension puts added stress on the bushings, and that's why the aftermarket UCAs wear out more quickly the Mopar models.

My Jeep is a daily driver with a stock suspension (no lift). The only off-roading I do is comprised of driving on grassy parking areas when I take the family pumpkin or apple picking around this time of year. Most importantly, the part only needs to last (me) a year or so, as there is a firm plan in place to replace this KJ with a WK2 next summer. I would estimate that I'll be putting another 10K miles on this Jeep.

With that in mind, can I get away with an aftermarket UCA? The fact that they're 1/3 the price of Mopar makes them very enticing, indeed.

I had a aftermarket trans mount totally trash itself in less then 2000 miles.Sad part is it cost more then the OEM one(at that time,my OEM one somehow ended up under a blue KJ).That part it does not matter if your lifted or not.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

1/3 the price, 1/3 the quality? Pretty much. If you are concerned with price I'd just buy the bushings and have them pressed in.

The outer bushings are $14.35/ea, the ball joint is $55 from NAPA. A local shop will charge around $40-$50 to press out the old and put in the new bushings and ball joint - total less than $150.

Bob

 

[Lancer]

"common sense "

Drat, I knew I was missing something!

 

[resipsa]

My new Mopar UCA was delivered yesterday (found it online for $312-not bad!), and I will be installing it this weekend. My only question is whether I should put Loctite or anti-seize on the bolts when installing the new one. Suggestions?