Receiver Hitch Help

[Gentleman]

I need some help here, I need to get a receiver hitch to work with my SportsWorks bicycle rack that has a 10" neck that fits into the recever, from end to curve if that makes sense and here is my dilemina considering the shortest hitch extension I can find is 14", if I go with the factory receiver the 14" may be just right, If I go with the Drawtite the 14" may be too long. What I need if possible is drawing a straight line from the edge of the bumper to the ground, the dimensions of how far back from the back bumper the factory receiver is and how far from the bumper the Drawtite extends. I went to the dealers lot yesterday hoping to find a Liberty with a hitch installed, but there were none.
I know I am asking a lot but if anyone can help me I would really appreciate it

Thanks
Bob

 

[KJ Willy]

I have a trailer hitch cargo basket that I was having the issue of stuff clearing the spare tire.

Etrailer.com has 7 inch hitch extension, that clear the tire perfrectly. The extensions says that max tongue weight is like 350 instead of 500, but I am not putting that much weight on it.

Try this link: http://www.etrailer.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=E&Category_Code=EXTENDER

if not look up hith extender.

 

[Gentleman]

I did not see that extension when I did a search, thanks for the info. Would you mind telling me which receiver you are using, Mopar or aftermarket.

Thanls
Bob

 

[KJ Willy]

I have the factory reciever.

 

[Gentleman]

Thank you, I believe I now have enough info to proceede, I am going to go with the factory hitch and the 7" extension

Bob

 

[BluPhant]

I'm towing this weekend... u-haul trailer to pick up some furniture a state away (which reminds me, I should prolly reserve one, eh?)..... I did most of the wiring over the wknd for the hitch, I have to run a wire under the undercarrage to the battery. Other than that, it's done. Going to wal-mart to get the ball/hitch, just kuz I'm cheap. I have a U-Haul tubular class III reciever. It's pretty nice, seems solid as hell.

-Blu

 

[SRotblat]

A few picts of my Draw-Tite and the 10.5" ball mount I've got. Ball mount before I lifted it (Rusty's 2.5" Coil Lift) was ~16.5" from the ground to the top of the ball.

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Last night I used a tow dolly to bring my two new toys home -- both are '83 VW Rabbit GTIs \/

 

[Gentleman]

Thanks for the photos, I am still pondering my decision, one concern I have is that my wife who uses the Lib for grocery shopping etc. is going to keep hitting her shin on the Drawtite when the tailgate is open, I know one can get used to it and avoid it, but my wife...hmmmm, I could probably take the Lib and have it repainted to a diferent color and maybe a month from now she may notice it, but she is the best and thats all I ask. I have a Sportsworks bicycle rack, it is similiar to the ones attached to the front of public buses, it is very easy to use and I want to stick with it, what I really need to do is get someone to hold my bicycle rack in a position where it does not hit the spare and do some measuring,

Bob

 

[SRotblat]

neither my wife nor myself have hit it and my wife isnt near as cordinated as myself 8-[

 

[BluPhant]

Just did the wiring for the trailer hitch. I have the 4-wire kind. Had to run a 10gage wire from the passenger side rear to the battery. Kind of a pain in the side - avoiding all moving things and hot things in the process. Basically brought it over to the brake line and followed that forward. Tested it out, looks to work pretty good. And in the nick of time.. towing tomorrow.



-Blu

 

[SRotblat]

what was the wire frm the rear to the battery for?

 

[BluPhant]

what was the wire frm the rear to the battery for?

Basically the lil box I have is kind of like a Repeater of sorts. You could think of it as a series of relays (but it's not, its electronic). When the turn signal comes on, it senses that, then taps from the 12+ wire I ran to actually run power to the trailer lights. In this way, the trailer wiring is ostensibally isolated from the vehicle's wiring. This way if I were to, say, back the boat into the salt water, the only thing that would die would be the trailer wiring, instead of the vehicle's wiring.

In any case, I did some towing this weekend. Rented a 6'x12' enclosed U-Haul trailer. Damn thing was from 1978 (LITERALLY!). Old as hell. Mrs Blu actually speculated that the trailer wouldn't make it home in one piece, because of its age. I had to put a bolt on the stupid thing so that the rear doors wouldn't fly open.

In any case, I dont care what anyone says, towing is not fun. The Liberty really did work nicely with it, tho.... I had no problems with it. Accelleration was, well, somewhat slower, as was braking. But it worked really well, and only cost me $48 out the door to rent the trailer. And the liberty felt like a sports car after detaching it!

-Blu

 

[BluPhant]

Found my wiring on etrailer.com

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Heres the actual box. The red wire is the one that runs to battery, big white one is ground.

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The connector male/female that you just snap right in.

-Blu

 

[Blue KJ in PA]

Mopar Wiring harness

This is one time I can actual strongly recommend the purchase of the Mopar wiring harness. I bought it ($89 pre tax) took it home, popped of the plastic at the bottom of the gate, folded down the 60 side of the 60/40 rear side, popped off the rear side piece enough to get my hands it, popped off the floor plug, unplugged the tail light wire, plugged in the harness, ran the wire to the hitch, pushed in the plastic clips to the holes in the outside and the put all the plastic covers back in. 15 minutes start to finish. Took longer at the dealer to get the part out of the storage racks than it did to install.

 

[JeepJeepster]

I bought the same one as above. I thought that it did use the same wiring as the factory wiring harness. But i kind of like the fact that its apart from the Jeeps wiring, makes me feel like if it does short out, whats it matter, it was only $50.

 

[Gentleman]

Are you saying that you did the harness install without completely removing the rear side panel, like unbolting the seat belt anchor and top thing, the reason I ask is that the top part of the seat belt is secured by a bolt that has a #50 torx head bolt and I cannot find any such size,

Bob

 

[BluPhant]

Hell yeah. Just pulled it forward enough to get at the wires. Dont touch the seatbelt, totally not necessary.

-blu

 

[BluPhant]

I bought the same one as above. I thought that it did use the same wiring as the factory wiring harness. But i kind of like the fact that its apart from the Jeeps wiring, makes me feel like if it does short out, whats it matter, it was only $50.

.....the harness is not whats being protected, it's the vehicle's electrical system. The isolation is to protect the KJ's electrics, forget the harness.

-Blu

 

[SRotblat]

my T-One connection was completely OUTSIDE the vehicle, I didnt pull any trim to do the install. Honestly though, what are you saving? The T-one fits between the plug to the tail light housing and the housing itself, the only thing your risking for an over load is the fuse for the running lights.

No issues here with a variety of uhaul trailers and the inlaw's utility trailer. Now if I was running more than a 4-flat setup that'd be something different...

 

[Blue KJ in PA]

Removing Seat belt

No need to touch the seat belt mounting. Pulling the clips closest to the back provides ample room. I saw the MOPAR directions say disconnect seat belt and all that extra crap but it was not needed. I believe the MOPAR harness comes with some kind of electrical protection as there is a box shaped item connect to wiring that is all wrapped up in insulation.