Rear Wheels

[Zero]

Hi,

So on my friends 2003 jeep liberty limited 3.7, he let sit for a few months and before he did so, he would feel skipping in around 3rd gear. Now he decided to work on it, he went to move it but it will not move in gear.

I shifted each gear (break in use) to see if it would shift normally and it did, however when I pressed the gas, it would rev up but it looked like the tires were not even wanting to move (like it would if you had the breaks on) but when I let off the gas they would turn like a an inch. Now what could be causing this? Doubt frozen calipers because it does that when I let off the gas but only when I do so and its only like an inch :shrug:

Yes I was in gear when I tried it, I tried it in D and R and also 1, 2 gear and it did the same thing.

 

[CactusJacked]

With the engine off, raise both rear tires off the ground and put shifter in neutral. Then try to turn each of the wheels by hand. This will tell you whether the problem is with the rearend or brakes, or if it's transmission/transfer case.

 

[megatone]

Never heard of this one before......first thing that comes to mind though is a ring & pinion gear issue.

Strange thing happened to my buddys 4x4 Chevy.....truck drove fine as long as you were driving straight, but as soon as you try to make a turn, it felt like the brakes were being applied.......problem turned out to be the rear gears....$3,000 rebuild later and his rig was on the road again.

Truck had a terrible smell....just like burnt brake linings or a burnt clutch.

Jacked up the rear end and spun each rear wheel by hand.....the faster it spun, the harder it got to rotate.....spin in the opposite direction and same thing. Disconnect the driveline and spin both tires in the same direction at the same time and they would lock up....

 

[Zero]

So was not able to do anything due to work today BUT I had a feeling to check oils, well there was no oil on the engine dip stick, nor on the transmission dip stick and I checked a few times. Def part of a problem, luckily he didnt destroy the damn thing. I will be filling both tomorrow and will go from there.

I am assuming no oil in the transmission would make it lock up lol

 

[twowings]

no fluid in auto ****** = no go...must build fluid pressure to operate...need to flush ******, refill, and change filter asap...

 

[Zero]

UPDATE.....

So today I filled the oil in both engine and ******, I then started the jeep and let it run to let the fluid flow. I put it in gear and I could now hear each gear click into place, so I gave it some gas and it moved but stopped so now I know something is also binding the wheels.

I checked the rear differential gear fluid and it was full.

So I took off a rear wheel (right) and the rotor was rusted to all shit, like very bad. I took off the caliper and the piston was seized shut and the metal piece of the brake pad that goes into the piston broke off. I put the wheel on without caliper and I could turn it by hand no problem but heard some bad grinding from rust.

Luckily I have a 2005 liberty 6speed that I have for parts. So I swapped out the caliper and brake pads (which are rusted on the pad) and put it all together, I bled the brake line. I moved on the the left side, once I got the caliper off it was the same thing! I put the tire on without caliper and COULD NOT turn the wheel(yes its in neutral). So I swapped out the calipers and brakes again and bled the brakes. This time when I put in in gear only the left tire would not move so I gave her some gas and I heard a snap and it freed up, so something was rusted to shit and was froze. (assuming the rotor)

So I took it for a spin and it shifts and moves right along through the gears but I can hear a grinding noise from the rust on the rotors almost like (shooo shooo shooo) and when I applied the break there was no stiffness and it pulsated bad and steering wheel shook like crazy.

So I am assuming its the rotors?

Also one more thing to this long ass post, I found a small pin hole in the ****** pan because I noticed a small puddle of fluid, I know its a hole because I put my finger over it and it stopped. Now I know I can JB weld it but its only temperary. Just buy a new one since they are cheap.

 

[libertybob]

Comments

May be a pin hole from rust on the trans pan as they are susceptible to this.

The shoo shoo shoo sound is likely warped rotors. Turning them is an option but usually it is best just to buy new ones at $30 each. Check Rockauto for pricing. Sounds like your friends Liberty has lacked regular maintenance. Keep plugging to get it in shape.

 

[LibertyTC]

Dang, don't let the poor KJ sit and rust away. A runout dial indicator on the current ones would help tell the story. Ya other wise new rotors.
Wheel bearings/seals don't like to sit forever either.
Even if I let mine sit for a while, I use an ethanol fuel treatment & I start it up weekly, and move it back & forth with some brake actions to remove rust on rotors.
Allowing it to fully warm up is good for the KJ.
Just get a new transmission pan/not expensive, do the filter & new ATF+4 and inspect the oil pan too.
I would also pull the rear diff cover & inspect gears etc in there. Turn rear wheels to see or hear if anything is not right.
The gear lube should be changed every 20k anyways, and if it's a trac lok rear end/ limited slip, a 4 oz bottle Mopar additive it also a must.

 

[Zero]

So I bought it from him since in my opinion he does not deserve it lol It is such a nice model and its dying lol

Bringing it back to life, gonna order new pan/gasket/filter and some new rotors, I got new rocker panels today made from aluminum I am going to rivet on.

So about 150$ for the parts I need, not bad considering the one I have for parts needs a new motor all together lol

 

[uss2defiant]

does it have abs?

 

[Zero]

Nope, I will be getting new rear rotors and pads and new tran oil pan in next few weeks Will update then...

 

[dude1116]

Don't forget to check brake shoes for the ebrake. Those could have gotten lose and are spinning in your rotor. Possibility for the noise.