please help me asap I'm stuck at walmart

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liberty84

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I'm stuck at walmart with a boat that I'm pulling (we just bought) and a wiring kit to hook up the lights

I need to know the 5 cables on the tailights wich one is what!!!!


I'm 4 hrs from home!!!!!
 
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kb0nly

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You need a converter to adapt the vehicles wiring to a trailer. Best to buy a Hoppy or Hopkins plug in one if you can find it, plugs inline with the vehicles wiring.

Hopefully someone can chime in here and help, i can't find the wire color codes, i just bought a plug in adapter.

You have a receiver for towing but no wiring??
 

liberty84

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You need a converter to adapt the vehicles wiring to a trailer. Best to buy a Hoppy or Hopkins plug in one if you can find it, plugs inline with the vehicles wiring.

Hopefully someone can chime in here and help, i can't find the wire color codes, i just bought a plug in adapter.

You have a receiver for towing but no wiring??

no, I just put the hitch I don't have the tow package so I need the colors from the tailights to hook em up with that wiring kit
 

flair1111

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better get that number down asap after you figure it out. lol...the internet can be mean.
 

HoosierJeeper

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So.....I'd assume your getting this from your phone at Wal Mart. They have Wi Fi????:D Cool.
 

J-Thompson

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no, I just put the hitch I don't have the tow package so I need the colors from the tailights to hook em up with that wiring kit



you need to buy a kit to convert it from 3 bulb to 2 bulb
the KJ has a break light and a turn light ,2 different lights
the boat has the same break and turn
there is a kit to make the KJ's lights work with the boat
I have one at my house ,never installed, cost like $50
you can not do it with out this kit

just got the kit down ,see I am really not a jerk
the kit you will need is a Hopkins towing solutions
pn 46255
oh and it looks to be a PITA so dont plan on doing it in the parking lot
hope this helps
 

kb0nly

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The Hopkins 42475 is a MUCH better choice. I looked at the available options and this one was the best, you pull the rear passenger side corner of the interior panel out enough to get your hand in there, unplug the rear end harness, plug this 42475 inline and install the self tapping screw into the metal to attach the ground wire, push it back in and tie up with a cable tie, then you cut a slit in the floor grommet that's there for the factory tow harness and push the trailer plug down through and tie it to your hitch with a couple cable ties. Push the plastic back into place and your done/

Took me no time at all, maybe ten minutes tops and that was taking my time.
 

J-Thompson

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The Hopkins 42475 is a MUCH better choice. I looked at the available options and this one was the best, you pull the rear passenger side corner of the interior panel out enough to get your hand in there, unplug the rear end harness, plug this 42475 inline and install the self tapping screw into the metal to attach the ground wire, push it back in and tie up with a cable tie, then you cut a slit in the floor grommet that's there for the factory tow harness and push the trailer plug down through and tie it to your hitch with a couple cable ties. Push the plastic back into place and your done/

Took me no time at all, maybe ten minutes tops and that was taking my time.



easier yes
better well that is a matter of opinion
that one pulls the power for the trailer lights off of the power for the Jeep lights ,boat trailer lights almost always have problems trust me we have 3 of them between the hunting camp and they all have issues all the time
The reason I got this one is that it pulls the power through a #10 wire fused at the battery so the trailer light issues will not effect the Jeep lights
 

kb0nly

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easier yes
better well that is a matter of opinion
that one pulls the power for the trailer lights off of the power for the Jeep lights ,boat trailer lights almost always have problems trust me we have 3 of them between the hunting camp and they all have issues all the time
The reason I got this one is that it pulls the power through a #10 wire fused at the battery so the trailer light issues will not effect the Jeep lights

Actually no it doesn't....

Its a powered and short circuit protected converter, it pulls power off the harness back there, there is a red wire in the harness that is on the vehicle side plug but not connected to anything on the rear end side plug, the converter pulls its power off that wiring. I traced it out and found out its pulling power from the rear power outlet circuit, as when i pull that fuse the trailer lights go out, so got ya there!!

Also, i shorted a light wire by accident the other night replacing a marker light on my utility trailer. All the lights on the trailer went off and i was like "CRAP" now what. I unplugged the trailer plug, fixed the short, and then plugged it back in figuring i would have to replace the fuse, nope, lights came back on. The converter must have auto reset breakers in it.
 

kb0nly

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Oh another thing, if you look at the instructions for the Hopkins 42475 it shows that you have a power wire that you need to connect through a fuse to the battery along with the ground wire. Well evidently they haven't updated their instructions after making a revision to the unit. The power wire is now incorporated into the large harness plug and the ground wire still remains seperate. The picture on etrailer is correct, although it only shows four wires going to the inline plugs there is actually five with the power wire and the ground wire is seperate, but the instructions still show that your supposed to route a power wire down through the grommet with the trailer plug, not so.

http://www.etrailer.com/p-42475.htm

If you get one of the other versions that you need a power source use the rear power outlet, that is unless of course you have a trailer with like two dozen lights on it or something. For most campers, boat trailers, utility trailers, you will be fine as if you go over the current rating of the converter that will cut out before you blow a fuse anyway.

I've had my utility trailer for eight years, and this year was the first time i have had trouble with the lights, just a light socket that was plain worn out and wouldn't work anymore. I have had campers, boats, you name it. Never the kind of problems J-T seems to have with his for some reason.
 
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liberty84

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nop, have a palm, and yeah and wouldve' bought that specific kit but they didn't have it that's why I bought the universal kit that's why I need the color code
 

indieaz

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Like other said, you need the adapter. I originally tried what you are doing (wiring in manually) only to find out that ther ewas a separate brake light (which pissed me off).

If there is a pep boys nearby, they actually sell the adapter you need that goes behind the tail lights for the liberty (it's appears to be identical to the one I got from etrailer, but has a different brand name on it). It's only $29.99.
 

tjkj2002

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Geez you guys make things way to complicated and also voiding any warranty on the electrical system also.Just fork over the coin for the MOPAR wiring,just a very simple plug in to a already existing plug in the R/R cargo area,no tapping into any wiring at all.
 

kb0nly

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Geez you guys make things way to complicated and also voiding any warranty on the electrical system also.Just fork over the coin for the MOPAR wiring,just a very simple plug in to a already existing plug in the R/R cargo area,no tapping into any wiring at all.

Umm, HELL NO...

The one i got plugs in to the large harness plug in the right rear corner, no splicing, no nothing, just like the OEM and works the same, but i only spent $42 for this one, the Mopar thing is more than twice that and does the same thing so why put the extra money in their pocket?? The cheapest i could find the OEM kit was $134.00 and it was special order from the dealer.
 

tjkj2002

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Umm, HELL NO...

The one i got plugs in to the large harness plug in the right rear corner, no splicing, no nothing, just like the OEM and works the same, but i only spent $42 for this one, the Mopar thing is more than twice that and does the same thing so why put the extra money in their pocket?? The cheapest i could find the OEM kit was $134.00 and it was special order from the dealer.
I paid $50 for my MOPAR one,brand new from the dealer and was in stock.Plus you stated already that you needed to run a ground wire,that is mor ethen what is needed for the MOPAR unit.
 

indieaz

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I paid $50 for my MOPAR one,brand new from the dealer and was in stock.Plus you stated already that you needed to run a ground wire,that is mor ethen what is needed for the MOPAR unit.

Dealers here wanted $180 for the mopar one.
 

kb0nly

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I paid $50 for my MOPAR one,brand new from the dealer and was in stock.Plus you stated already that you needed to run a ground wire,that is mor ethen what is needed for the MOPAR unit.

Not really, it had a white ground wire about 6 inches long with a ring terminal installed and a self tapping screw. Chucked a 1/4 socket in the cordless drill and drove that into the metal surrounding the hole you reach into to get the plug, done. Took maybe one minute longer then an OEM harness and its worth it as you add a better ground to the system.

If i could have gotten the OEM one for $50 i would have gone that route. I called three dealers and checked a few chrysler parts websites online, the cheapest i could get it is $134. You must have really lucked out to find it for that price!!
 
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