oil pressure switch gone bad?

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vaksanov

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Hello everyone!
Another bad news on my liberty. Seems like since the time i owned it (1 year) i pretty much replaced everything (transmission, water pump, radiator, the whole power steering system, and probably forgot what else) but the engine. So today i drove it home from work just fine, after couple hours i was driving it back out to get dinner and about 2 miles in, my low oil light came on so i tried pulling off and when i gave it gas i noticed that my rpms were at zero so the engine got shut off, so i limped it into the parking lot. I tried starting her back up and it sounds like it's turning just fine but not starting. I go check under the hood and oil, ******, coolant, steering fluids are all good and at the required levels. But there does seem some substance on the body bar next to ps rack and some dirty fluid on the bottom of the oil filter. I googled the causes and saw that pressure switch might be the cause. I looked at mine and it is covered in dirt, and it only has one wire on the connector? So tomorrow im going to clean mine disconnect it and clean everything and try starting it again. If that doesn't work im going to buy a new one.
So can it be the pressure switch and would it kill the engine if it goes faulty?
 

Billwill

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Hello everyone!
Another bad news on my liberty. Seems like since the time i owned it (1 year) i pretty much replaced everything (transmission, water pump, radiator, the whole power steering system, and probably forgot what else) but the engine. So today i drove it home from work just fine, after couple hours i was driving it back out to get dinner and about 2 miles in, my low oil light came on so i tried pulling off and when i gave it gas i noticed that my rpms were at zero so the engine got shut off, so i limped it into the parking lot. I tried starting her back up and it sounds like it's turning just fine but not starting. I go check under the hood and oil, ******, coolant, steering fluids are all good and at the required levels. But there does seem some substance on the body bar next to ps rack and some dirty fluid on the bottom of the oil filter. I googled the causes and saw that pressure switch might be the cause. I looked at mine and it is covered in dirt, and it only has one wire on the connector? So tomorrow im going to clean mine disconnect it and clean everything and try starting it again. If that doesn't work im going to buy a new one.
So can it be the pressure switch and would it kill the engine if it goes faulty?

The oil switches are known to fail...worth replacing and make sure you have a good quality oil filter and oil. And yes it will kill the engine...some people would otherwise ignore the warning and drive on which would destroy the engine!:shrug:
 

Kidketchup

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What is killing the engine is the lack of oil or pressure. You said the engine oil level was ok, so I assume it is not the case. A pressure switch itself will not destroy anything. If you feel the issue is the switch, change it but if you stil have the warning, look at the pump or try to get the pressure reading.

Envoyé de mon SGH-I317M en utilisant Tapatalk
 

vaksanov

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Well I went and bought a sensor at Advance Auto parts and before taking old one out I sprayed some break cleaner to get some gunk off the old one. So when I put the new sensor in same thing happens. The engine and everything turns over but it doesn't start. I checked all the fuses inside the car. And when I turn the key to the run position, all of the lights go off except for check engine and oil lights. I tried reading codes but there are none.
So should I try buying a MOPAR sensor or what else could be a problem? I hope it is not an oil pump because I don't have the skills to remove a bunch of stuff off the engine.
Where can I start trouble shooting? How would I check the oil pressure? Take out the sensor and hook up the gauge? I am lost here as she seems to turn over fine but not start.
 

M38 Bob

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CRANK IT!!!! Minimum of 30 seconds at a time. It must crank until oil pressure reaches a high enough reading for the computer to recognize pressure and turn ignition back on.

Bob


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vaksanov

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So i replaced sensor with oem, changed oil filter thinking filter may be faulty, cranked it for 30 seconds and nothing... keeps cranking with no start. One time i did get a code and it was for sensor low voltage but that was with advance sensor but once i plugged oem it went away but no start still. How tight should the sensor be in? All the way until you can't twist it anymore? Im about to go buy a gauge but when i took sensor off and tried starting i had about a quart leak out so i think it's not the oil pump. If there is pressure im going to replace the plug as when i tried taking it off first time i sprayed throttle body cleaner and i broke the red tab off so may be it's the plug and a wire but then how would it send p0522 and clear it if it was a bad plug?
 

vaksanov

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Just checked voltage on the plug 10.9? I read ut should be 5?
Pressure is close to 50 psi? What am i missing?
 

van462

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I'm not sure you have an oil pressure problem. Is it possible the engine cut off first, that will trigger the oil pressure light since the ignition is on and the engine isn't running. When you first open the door do you hear the fuel pump prime. it may be worth checking your fuel pressure.
 

dougmac

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I'm with van462... it sounds like the engine shut off and that caused the oil light to come on.
I would be looking for spark and fuel pressure before I messed with the oil pressure sensor.
 

vaksanov

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Yes I think van and doug you guys are right, after the incident just happened I asked someone to crank it and there was a buzzing noise at first but not anymore. When I leave it on run and take the fuse out and put it back it buzzes but stops. Also once I tried cranking it a couple of times I left it on run and tried pressing the nipple on the gas pressure tester on the passenger side and it didn't squirt at all and only a few drops came out.
So hopefully tomorrow if I have time I will go get the gauge for fuel line and see what I get. The only problem with changing it out is that I just filled up before it broke. And also is there anyway to clean it and fix it or just buy a new one?
 

van462

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Any chance you got a bad tank of gas? Also open your gas cap and listen for a suction. If you did hear it suck in air try starting again.
 

vaksanov

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Again thanks for the idea guys, pressure was at 0 so I am going to replace my pump and update. I guess I didn't know that the oil light stays on regardless and thought it was an oil related problem.

P.S. should I buy the whole new fuel pump module or just the pump?
 
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van462

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Check for voltage first. Start with the fuse 24. Back at the pump the dark green/orange wire is the 12 volt+ wire. It is controlled by a fuel pump relay. My schematic shows the relay in the power distribution center.
 

Billwill

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Yep if the engine switches off for any reason while running then the Oil light will come ON!

This could be caused by many problems such as a blocked fuel filter or bad fuel pump.

You need to get codes pulled out although fuel issues often do not cause codes.

First swap over the ASD relay in the box under the hood with an identical one...if the ASD relay goes bad your engine cuts out!
 

vaksanov

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So I finally got some straps and a jack to lower my tank.
The old pump assembly had alot of nasty black stuff in it, once i drained it in the bucket it was pretty bad. Tank had crap ton of gas in it so there is no way of cleaning it. And the pump that I took out is the exactly the one that I bought from advanced auto so I am not sure how long this one will last.
Once I put the assembly together and in the tank, I put the arrow facing towards the O on the body of the tank with the hose connector facing front, does that sound right?
Also I know the tank has to be sealed but when I put my tank under the car to lift it, I saw that one of the hoses broke off, I disconnected it next to filler line but didn't put it through the body frame so I am assuming it got stuck and broke off :(
It is in the picture so does anyone know if I can super glue that sucker back or what can I do to fix it?
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Once I try fixing that hose tomorrow I will lift the tank and hopefully get her to start and back on the road again.
 

vaksanov

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I put a connector from a garden hose to fix the broken hose and once i turned the key it was running rough and jumped to 1000 rpms and died. Still cranks but no start AGAIN. Ive switched around fuses for fuel pump and asd and still nothing, just p0522 code which i think comes on from cranking it so much. So no idea, could it be bad gas, spark plugs, i changed those about 15k ago? I will probably have to tow it to dealership because i have no other ideas.
 

libertybob

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Fuel pressure?

With the new fuel pump, do you have fuel pressure now at the fuel rail? Did you replace the fuel filter when you replaced the pump? Could it be that the "black stuff" you found in the old fuel pump clogged the filter? Can you check the fuel flow volume from your new fuel pump at the fuel rail on the engine to make sure you are now getting sufficient fuel? Just ideas for thought. Please keep us posted on the final root cause.

PS: the "black stuff" may have been ethanol attacking the rubber in the fuel module. Had that problem with a Saab 900. You stated you couldn't clean the tank. Could the residual "black stuff" in the tank clog the new fuel pump? Testing fuel pressure and flow rate should tell you if this could be the case. Dropping fuel tanks is misery, so I hope not. I assume the fuel filter kept any contaminants from clogging your fuel injectors, but is there any chance of this? Can you pull a spark plug to see if it is wet after trying to crank the engine? Again, I am thinking out loud so please bear with me.
 
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vaksanov

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So it was a fuel pump after all. I went and got starting fluid to see if air and spark were ok and she started, the fuel rail was completely dry. I dropped the tank again and apparently the hose that goes from the fuel pump got disconnected. I put retaining clips on both sides and put her together. She started right up, although she throws p0171 and p0174 which I think are the codes from me disconnecting the sensors on the air intake to put starting fluid in and I'm assuming crappy gas. So I am hoping once I drive her for a while they will go away.
Thank you for everyone's input and guidance in the right direction and let me know if anyone needs help with dropping a gas tank in the parking lot, lol
 

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