New to Jeeps

Michael Wolfe

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Thanks man. It has 189,000 miles in it now. I’ll look into changing the timing belt soon. Maybe the glow plugs too just to be safe.

A tune would be great. Even if it is to eliminate the EGR and such. Do they have a DPF or anything like that. I’ve read about a catalytic converter, but do they have sensors and such going to them, is there a turbo back exhaust to be had?

You can find EGR delete kits on Ebay. it would be a most excellent time to replace glow plugs at the same time, as that side of the head will be nicely uncluttered. You'll then need a tune to prevent CEL from coming on. I believe I am using a Yeti tune currently.
 

Johnny O

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Yes thought you knew that from all we have talked about them on here
They came stock since the 4 cylinders were a dog
Getting harder to find but still out there
I have folks looking all the time and letting me know when they find them and I then " treat them right " ( finders fee )
I remember bits about it, honestly am not going to regear, so didn’t pay attention too well on those threads. Lol
 

turblediesel

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Use Bosch or Etekno 5 volt metal glow plugs. They don't work as well as the oem ceramic glow plugs for cold starts but they don't fall apart and destroy your engine. Sasquatch has an inlet air electric grid heater and they also have a bigger battery tray that allows a diesel Webasco coolant preheater installation. I don't know how cold it gets where you live.
 

RockinRam96

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Getting harder to find but still out there
I have folks looking all the time and letting me know when they find them and I then " treat them right " ( finders fee )
It’s really to bad that these motors didn’t get more attention. They seem like they could have the potential to make a bit of power. Dual overhead cams, direct common rail injection, inline 4 cylinder. I mean from the factory they made about the sand power my first Cummins did (180hp, 360 ft-lbs). I just think there is a lot left on the table with these motors.

Plus a motor that is designed to be efficient to help meet emission standards is always going to be capable of power.
 

tommudd

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4 cylinder gassers
You may think they have or could have more power
But they are dogs, no power at all especially on even a small grade
They installed 4.10s to try and help them but it didn't help
As with a lot of motors if you have the money , then build away
 

Michael Wolfe

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It’s really to bad that these motors didn’t get more attention. They seem like they could have the potential to make a bit of power. Dual overhead cams, direct common rail injection, inline 4 cylinder. I mean from the factory they made about the sand power my first Cummins did (180hp, 360 ft-lbs). I just think there is a lot left on the table with these motors.

Plus a motor that is designed to be efficient to help meet emission standards is always going to be capable of power.
Love my CRD. There's a few things you have to do and keep up on, but it's really an engine that can run forever. Wet cylinders, so the block doesn't need bored. Basically all the wear items can be unbolted and replaced. Unless you break the block somehow. No DEF/DPF, 545 truck transmission. Wish there was a manual ****** option.
My biggest issue up here in the northeast is rust.
 

tommudd

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and that is why you see people wanting to get rid of them all the time
Plus the fact Jeep never gave them the real love they needed ( no support at all )
 

RockinRam96

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Been driving my Jeep for some time now. Probably have between 500 and 750 miles on it since lift was completed. I must say, I am impressed with the ride of this thing. It rides smoother than any other lifted vehicle I have ever been in.

The shop nailed the alignment. It tracks true and straight down the road. It has a little shake in the wheel above 55, but nothing terrible. If I had put more street-able tires on it I am sure that would go away.

As far as power, it is a dog. Needs a little boost or a re-gear for sure. Been searching locally for a gas job that I can switch axles out of.

Had to replace the driveshaft u-joints last weekend. They were about ready to grenade. But the new moog joints have tightened up the driveline significantly. I think I will rebuild the CV shaft here before to long, just for piece of mind.

Overall I am very happy with this truck so far. Yet to be tested off the pavement!
 

RockinRam96

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So… things have been going great.

Only thing I have noticed is that if it sits for an extended period of time (sat for a week this last time) it cranks a while before starting. Being around diesels in’s lean towards it loosing prime. But that doesn’t seem to be the case. As when I check the primer pump it is stiff and when it does start a lot of white diesel smoke comes out of the tail pipe. So it’s getting fuel.

Is this a function hard starts in cooler temps (been hanging around mid-30s here, was about 50 yesterday when I to started it). OR, is the the beginning of something else that needs attention right away? (i.e. timing belt, rockers, other?)
 

RockinRam96

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Another update. Jeep has been running great. Keep putting more and more miles on it with absolutely no issues. I’ve put around 2,000 miles on it since adding the lift. I did have to put u joints in the drive shaft as they were completely shot. Thinking the CV axle will be the next project.

Went to our families camp last weekend d. Puked my uncles little 5x8 la scape trailer with trees Jeep. Pulled it without an issues, and actually rode a bit better with a trailer on.

Played in the mud a bit. Jeep had no troubles at all with any of the holes we threw at it. These Super Swamper are mean. They just dig and dig and dig. It’s quite impressive.

Finished up my little trailer just the other day. Excited to see how the Jeep drives and handles it. This is going to be the perfect little hunting set up. Which is just what I was going for!
 

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Michael Wolfe

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Another update. Jeep has been running great. Keep putting more and more miles on it with absolutely no issues. I’ve put around 2,000 miles on it since adding the lift. I did have to put u joints in the drive shaft as they were completely shot. Thinking the CV axle will be the next project.

Went to our families camp last weekend d. Puked my uncles little 5x8 la scape trailer with trees Jeep. Pulled it without an issues, and actually rode a bit better with a trailer on.

Played in the mud a bit. Jeep had no troubles at all with any of the holes we threw at it. These Super Swamper are mean. They just dig and dig and dig. It’s quite impressive.

Finished up my little trailer just the other day. Excited to see how the Jeep drives and handles it. This is going to be the perfect little hunting set up. Which is just what I was going for!
Envious! Mine runs great at about 200k. Wouldn't worry about pulling that trailer. I've pulled a 3000# 23 foot sailboat on a tandem axle trailer with mine.
Had to do the drive shaft U-joints at around 185k, both went about the same time. Friend's CRD I think ran into the rocker arm issue, so I plan to replace those.
So far I've done:
EGR Delete
Tuned ECU with a mild tune (EGR Delete)
GDE tune on transmission controller (towing)
Replaced glow plugs and harness

Above the repairs and maintenance. Idler on serpentine belt went out about 190K, so replaced the set.
Has anyone removed the "valve cover" to clean out the intake? Can this be done without touching the head bolts? I would like to get in there and remove any cake that built up before the EGR delete. Probably do the rockers at the next timing belt replacement.
 

turblediesel

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Valve cover (aka camifold) does come off without disturbing the head bolts. Order some cam seals since the cleaning process might get crud in behind them. I wrapped the exposed cam sections in shop towels and plastic wrap which worked well. A bottle brush works well for rooting around in there.

Check the play on your rocker pins. The crud wears them down. Consider ARP studs. They can be switched in one at a time. Sasquatch makes a nice Provent install kit to reduce the crud.

Assembly **** works well for holding the rockers in place on reassembly. Make a couple of guide pins (not too long) from long bolts to ***** into injector-clamp holes to help guide it back into place. Also helpfull are a half dozen 2 inch long pieces of half inch plastic conduit. Place these along the edges of the head to rest the camifold on. At that point you can use a flashlight (and maybe a mirror) to make sure none of the rockers have been knocked out of place before final assembly.

Hope this helps!
 

RockinRam96

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It’s been a while. Jeep is running well. Hoping to take it to an event next weekend and see how well it can handle some trails.

I really need to get a set of axles and get this thing referred. There is an 04 for sale locally that I am considering for the axle swap. It also has a 5 speed manual trans in it. Is it possible to swap this into the CRD? Bellhousings the same? What’s all involved?
 

dardhai34

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I would like to put shocks and struts in it now, as I am sure it is due. If I go with Bilstein 5100s will the be ok for a lift.

hellodear.in

teatv.ltd
 
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Michael Wolfe

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It’s been a while. Jeep is running well. Hoping to take it to an event next weekend and see how well it can handle some trails.

I really need to get a set of axles and get this thing referred. There is an 04 for sale locally that I am considering for the axle swap. It also has a 5 speed manual trans in it. Is it possible to swap this into the CRD? Bellhousings the same? What’s all involved?
"The Rubicon's NV3550 five-speed transmission is found in '00-'04 model years. It bolted to the back of the diesel without any adapters. The earlier AX-15 will also bolt up." according to this article.


Of course, you'll need a flywheel, pressure plate, and clutch disk. The parts fiche mentions the 6 speed NSG-370, perhaps this was the export 6 speed manual.

You must be registered for see images attach

-30 05093909AA 1 EN0 DG0 PLUG
31 05072396AA 6 EN0 DBB BOLT
32 05072664AA 8 EN0 DBB BOLT
33 05142993AA 1 EN0 DBB FLYWHEEL
34 05142993AA 1 DISC, Clutch, Serviced with
Pressure Plate, (NOT SERVICED)
35 05142992AA 1 EN0 DBB PLATE, Pressure, Includes Clutch
Disc

Let me know if you find something that works.
 

RockinRam96

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Hey guys! Looking to get this thing reheated and I am struggling to find a rear end and a front differential locally with a 4.10 gear ratio.

Summit racing does have some gear sets for a Dana 30 and Chrysler 8.25 combo. But these will not work with the Dana 30a, correct? Or are the housings, carriers, ring and pinion the same between a Dana 30 and Dana 30a?

 

JRB

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Pinion different, so r&p will be 30a specific.

differential appears to share between the 30 and 30a, as they don't make a specific separate one for the 30a that some recently talked about.
thread info for diff
 

RockinRam96

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What credentials do I need to post a for sale ad? Jeep needs to go!

This has been a great little project. I do really enjoy this Jeep and it continues to impress me every time I drive it. But I’ve found another project that has caught my eye.
 
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